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Gull Wing Window 2.0 - Upated 09/10/17

34K views 87 replies 27 participants last post by  zach_attack  
#1 · (Edited)
Version 2.0
The big update for version 2.0 was aluminum instead of plexiglass.

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There will be a version 3, eventually... version 3 will include a gas strut and better latches.



Version 1.0

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\/ \/ OUTDATED INFORMATION BELOW \/ \/

This is more of a "How I'm Gonna Do It" thread. I'm gonna go through the parts list and a mock procedure. Then all you smart, mechanically inclined cookies can critique it and I'll begin the process for real.

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There is a separate thread on this project here . If you want to talk about the utility or feasibility of a gullwing window please take it over there and keep this thread technical.

I found a how-to over on NissanPatrol.com.au here but unfortunately I don't speak Australian so that's all the credit they're getting.


Goals:
-Rear cargo area access from the side (primary objective)
-Decreased visibility into cargo area (this is going on the driver's side so I don't need to see out)
-Locking
-Theft resistant (since nothing is theft proof)
-Does not whistle in wind
-Does not leak when it rains, snows, freeze thaw, etc​
-$100 out the door

Phase I - DONE
-Research
-Measure (amount of moulding, panel size, estimate weight/forces required)
-19"tall x 26.25" wide
-87" circumference (~7.5')
-use 1/8" plexiglass​
-Look at upper support for hinges (is the mounting surface strong enough)?
-upper mounting surface is very sturdy. Self tapping sheet metal screws will be a big winner here
-Drill right through headliner and into metal frame. Easy as pie.​
-Is the window flat (would make things so much easier)?
-No, it has a small bend. We're gonna have to do some forming of acrylic sheet using my mom's oven​
-Is a frame necessary?
-No. 2 brackets will need to be installed on the bottom edge for compression latches​
Phase II - DONE
-Acquire parts
-(1) Acrylic sheet (36" x 24")
-(2) Rubber trim/weatherstrip 8 ft sections
-(1) bulb style for vehicle side to promote weather resistance)
-(1) C style for the edge of plexiglass​
-(2) Hinges
-(2) Compression latch, 1 locking, 1 regular
-Hardware
-(10) self tapping sheet metal screws
-(10) pan head spanner screws (for secure connection of hinge to window)​
-(1) 24" x 36" vinyl wrap
-(1) Silicon adhesive/liquid nails​


Phase III - DONEZO
-Installation
[ ] -Remove window
[ ] -Remove glass from face and hands from broken window
[ ] -Place hinges
[ ] -Drill hinge holes in plexiglass
[ ] -Cut holes for compression latches
[ ] -Dry fit
[ ] -Apply carbon fiber wrap
[ ] -Apply molding
[ ] -Dry fit
[ ] -Glue
[ ] -Assemble
[ ] -Crack a cold one​

Anticipated install date: 04/01/2017
 

Attachments

#2 · (Edited)
Acquired
$13.99 - hinges
$8.99 - locking compression latch
$11.90 - regular compression latch
$30.00 - 24"x32"x1/8" black plexiglass sheet
$10.55 - rubber molding (vehicle side)
$10.00 - rubber molding (window side)
$6.71 - vinyl wrap to protect plexiglass
$6.05 - secure screws
$4.99 - silicone adhesive

Total Spent

$103.18
 
#9 ·
Yesterday I emailed emuwing about this. I got a nice response very quickly:

Hi Zach,

Thanks for your enquiry, at this stage we do not have a kit to suit your vehicle so we would need to go through the development process which could prove difficult dependant on whether I can source a rear quarter within Australia - otherwise I may need to employ your assistance to source the part in the states and ship it over. Generally development takes two to three months before we have a solution that we can send out to a customer - someone in the group would need to put their hand up for an initial prototype kit which would be supplied for free but they would need to pay shipping costs. Once the kit is fitted and tested we can then go ahead with a production run.

*

To begin a development like this we would need deposits of $100AU on five individual kits, the total cost would be the same as our other models as listed on the website, starting at $619AU each for the aluminium kit (glass is dependent on our manufacturer who can be unreliable) however we have offered group buys in the past which would work as follows:

10 or more individual kits attract a 10% discount on the listed price (5 pairs)

20 or more individual kits and we can offer a 15% discount on the listed price (10 pairs)

We can also supply parts if you would rather do the work yourself, as an example we sell the hinges for $35AU each plus shipping.

*

If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to contact us.

*

--*

Regards

Rodney Marks

EmuWing

Vehicle Access Solutions

EmuWing - Gull Wing complete rear side window replacement kits, the ultimate vehicle access solution.
 
#11 ·
All parts are ordered with the exception of:
-security hardware for hinge/window interface
-silicone adhesive (might have some laying around)
-brackets for latches

Questions for you:
-Is my rear hatch gas strut going to be wayyy too strong?
-Is 1/8" plexi too thin?
-What can I use for secure hardware to mount the hinge to the window?
 
#14 ·
Forgive me if you've covered this, but I'm just not visualizing it. How do you plan on mounting that rubber bulb seal so that it actually seals? It needs a flange parallel to the window/emu wing pane...

It looks like the emuwing brand ones come with a frame of sorts to provide this
 
#15 ·
I don't think a frame is necessary.

My design for the seal includes
-a) the rubber 'bulb' style trim (see OP) to go on the vehicle side of the window. This bulb would go the whole way around the opening.
-b) c-channel rubber trim which will go around the edge of the window.

Due to the window being slightly larger than the opening, I don't anticipate the 2 rubber trims to be in contact, much. If they are in contact then great but if not I think I'll have a weathertight seal from the bulb trim and the plexiglass. The key here will be hinge and bracket placement to ensure a firm, snug fit.
 
#18 ·
On the Plexi you plan on ordering, make sure you get Polycarbonate/Lexan NOT acrylic. Acrylic cracks very easily when drilling or bending moderate radii, poly/lexan is very durable and can take quite a lot of punishment. You can also order it in "smoke" which is tinted already to better match the factory.

1/8" (0.118" common thickness) would be thick enough to function but would not be very thief proof, you would be able to bend it pretty easy. 0.177" would probably be a better choice for added rigidity and a little more thief proof. The next size up (0.236") might be too thick to bend to the radius needed to close properly...

How many closure latches are you planing on using?
 
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#31 ·
Most of my parts are in. Y'all gave me cold feet about my 1/8" plexi but it is strong and rigid as can be. I am a half-step away from proving the naysayers wrong. It will be fine. But, as an added security, I will be gluing trimmed pieces back on to the inside of the pane for extra stability.

The only part I'm waiting on is a compression latch that I ordered from the land of mercury, smog, and crying children.

I could still use some advice on secure hardware to attach the hinge to the window. The current leader is a 'pan head spanner' bolt. It won't be cheap, as I need a driver for it too, but nobody I know carries this tool around with them.

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Suggestions are welcome. I'm already giddy at the thought of cutting more holes :bounce: :bounce: :blob7: :bounce: :bounce:
 
#35 ·
People will just smash a window way before they are going to waste time unscrewing your covers, regardless of what you use. Smash-grab-go is they way it works. In out and gone in <5-10 seconds.
 
#36 ·
I was thinking the exact same thing. No one is going to waste time taking screws and junk out.

Also, I'd of used the stock laminated glass for this, not plexi, but that's just me. but interested and curious to see how it comes out. Very cool project and idea. Hopefully your latches are long enough to go through the glass and latch the body for whatever seal you chose!