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Well I didn't realize it was quite that easy, I will look it up on YT. Any double din head unit recommendations under $350?

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Another thing to consider is whether you have the Rockford Fosgate system or not (is there an amp under your passenger seat?). The RF system makes it a bit harder, as everyone seems to want to sell you the wrong adapter harness, and you might have to put in a ground loop isolator to keep it from popping or humming. If you don't have that, it is one simple harness (like 18 wires), a few screws to remove the dash and head unit, and you might need a different dash cover (06 doesn't, cant remember when they went to the single molded unit with the climate controls).
 
Another thing to consider is whether you have the Rockford Fosgate system or not (is there an amp under your passenger seat?). The RF system makes it a bit harder, as everyone seems to want to sell you the wrong adapter harness. .
That is exactly what we have. 2011 Pro4x with the RF sound system. I really have no desire ruin my stereo trying to learn to wire and especially adding a backup camera and having it wired to the steering wheel will be additional hurdles.

Thank you for the heads up on the nuances.


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That is exactly what we have. 2011 Pro4x with the RF sound system. I really have no desire ruin my stereo trying to learn to wire and especially adding a backup camera and having it wired to the steering wheel will be additional hurdles.

Thank you for the heads up on the nuances.


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Why do you want a new head unit? If just for bluetooth, let me offer a solution: http://www.thenewx.org/forum/70-product-reviews/263321-review-nulaxy-bt-audio-fm-transmitter.html
 
Oh come on. You know I have wheel spacers, but that's not part of the swap itself, that's why they're not on the list.

I tried to show you parts that will prevent you from spending so much money, if you're going to nit-pick it, just move on.

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Not nit-picking just trying to understand the swap. I do appreciate your response. It looks like I had way over estimated allot of the parts, particularly the LCA. I will meditate on it some more.

Thanks,
Red
 
That is exactly what we have. 2011 Pro4x with the RF sound system. I really have no desire ruin my stereo trying to learn to wire and especially adding a backup camera and having it wired to the steering wheel will be additional hurdles.

Thank you for the heads up on the nuances.


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Using the wrong harness wont wreck your stereo, it just sounds like garbage. What normally happens is a head unit has 2 outputs, the wire ones in the harness, and RCA plugs. The wire ones put out speaker-level outputs, which are designed to go straight to the speakers (basically louder), and the RCA are designed to go to an amp (quieter output) as the amp will boost the volume (usually better than the head unit). If you hook the speaker-level output to an amp, it does work, but the amp is just boosting the already-boosted signal, causing it to be really loud and distorted. This also means you cannot turn the volume up as much on the head unit, or it gets really loud. Mine came with an aftermarket head unit, and the previous owner had used the wrong harness, and I couldn't turn the volume up past around 5 before it sounded extremely loud and distorted.

If you do look at a head unit replacement, make sure they use Metra 70-7551 for the adapter. The one that the databases all suggest are for the non-RF system. Technically, that is all you need to get the stereo working in your vehicle, is to buy that adapter, possibly the replacement trim plating if yours has the front panel shared with the climate controls (Metra 99-7428B in grey or black), connect the wires on the adapter to the wires that come with the head unit (normally color-coded, can be done either with solder or crimps), plug everything in, and you are good to go. If there is buzzing and popping when you change sources, you might have to add a ground loop isolator (https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6909) between the stereo and the rca plugs on the adapter. Due to the placement of the RCA out on my stereo, I also had to use 90 degree RCA adapters, there is a steel bar behind the head unit that I had to clear for the RCA plugs.

If you want the steering wheel controls to work as well, you have to buy something like the Axxess ASWC-1 (make sure it is compatible with the new head unit), it is usually just 3 or 4 wires that need to be spliced in. This part is probably the most complicated as you have to figure out how to plug it into the factory harness, you can't just buy an adapter that clips it (or at least I couldn't find one). It usually involves cutting a couple of wires on the vehicle side and crimping it on to them.
 
I’m new and I just bought a 2012 Xterra Pro 4x. I’m curious to what the 2 tracks on the floor are for in the rear cargo area?
Stock accessory:

If you don't have those, they come up for sale here pretty regularly. Make your own, or PM @Ramness to see if he has any left from his trips to junkyards.

Start there, and as you search this site, you'll see a thousand other uses and adaptations for those tracks, and even more rugged substitutes for the stock channels.
 
I’m new and I just bought a 2012 Xterra Pro 4x. I’m curious to what the 2 tracks on the floor are for in the rear cargo area?
You can make something similar to these.
Image


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I've been calling around getting some quotes on tires. On TireBuyer.com I can get a set of 5 for about $1300 (after tax), and then they guarantee a mount/balance cost of $85 if I ship to an installer. So about $1400.

Meanwhile, I call the local Les Schwab for the same 5 tires and they quote me a total installed price of ~$2200.

WTF? Where does this $800 difference come from?
 
I've been calling around getting some quotes on tires. On TireBuyer.com I can get a set of 5 for about $1300 (after tax), and then they guarantee a mount/balance cost of $85 if I ship to an installer. So about $1400.

Meanwhile, I call the local Les Schwab for the same 5 tires and they quote me a total installed price of ~$2200.

WTF? Where does this $800 difference come from?
I didn't think Les Schwab carried name brand tires. At least the couple of times I looked on their site, it was just their stuff. If that's the case, you're probably paying a premium for the effort to order tires they don't actually carry.

As an aside, I've found Discount Tire to have the best selection with mostly competitive pricing of the various tire companies. Even taking installation and certificates into account.
 
I've been calling around getting some quotes on tires. On TireBuyer.com I can get a set of 5 for about $1300 (after tax), and then they guarantee a mount/balance cost of $85 if I ship to an installer. So about $1400.

Meanwhile, I call the local Les Schwab for the same 5 tires and they quote me a total installed price of ~$2200.

WTF? Where does this $800 difference come from?
They want more margin is likely a big one. 95% of people don't think about buying tires. They wait until they need them, then just buy the ones at the shop they took their flat repair to. This is one of the reasons I don't feel bad for buying stuff on line - most retailers will rip you off given the chance.

They may not get much discount on that brand of tires, but if you want to shop there maybe ask about pricing on other brands that are comparable. Or mention you can get them for 800 bucks cheaper on line.

Not sure if your paying taxes on the tires at tire buyer - because there shipping them in from out of state. So there is probably a bunch of dollars there that the local shop has to charge you.
 
SimpleTire.com seems to have great price and free shipping and I think even tax free.

However, a local tire shop got me the same set of 5 installed out the door tax and everything for the same price as SimpleTire.com shipped to my door without installation. This was for Maxxis Bighorn MTs. This was their price, not a price match. Which is pretty cool.
 
I've been calling around getting some quotes on tires. On TireBuyer.com I can get a set of 5 for about $1300 (after tax), and then they guarantee a mount/balance cost of $85 if I ship to an installer. So about $1400.

Meanwhile, I call the local Les Schwab for the same 5 tires and they quote me a total installed price of ~$2200.

WTF? Where does this $800 difference come from?

IDK why dont you ask them!

see if they will price match.
 
What is this? Every site says that 255/85/16 should be nearly 33”, why is mine barely 32”?

Did the chalk test, everything scrubbed off clean. Inflated to 36 psi.

Image



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The "nominal" dimensions of a 255/85R16 tire are 33" diameter with a 10.04" section width.

Some tires are larger than that and some smaller depending upon the particular tire and manufacturer.

It appears from the photo that you may have Cooper Discoverer ST/Maxx LT255/85R16 tires. Cooper literature lists the dimensions of that tire as 32.8" in diameter with a section width of 10.2." For comparison, the published dimensions for the BFG KM2 255/85R16 are 33.5" in diameter with a 10" section width.

Tire diameter is measured with the tire mounted, inflated, but off the ground.

When on the ground the loaded radius of the tire is compressed by the weight of the vehicle and is further impacted by the tire pressure, rendering a tape measure useless for determining tire diameter.
 
When on the ground the loaded radius of the tire is compressed by the weight of the vehicle and is further impacted by the tire pressure, rendering a tape measure useless for determining tire diameter.

Of course the truck is compressing the tires. Duh.

Thanks for the explanation @Mr. Bills. Ultimately my goal was to determine suspension sag and take the new tires into account. I don’t think it can be done accurately but certainly the suspension is tired because it’s equal height front and back.




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Of course the truck is compressing the tires. Duh.

Thanks for the explanation @Mr. Bills. Ultimately my goal was to determine suspension sag and take the new tires into account. I don’t think it can be done accurately but certainly the suspension is tired because it’s equal height front and back.




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to determine lift height/suspension height measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom lip of your fender. This eliminates tires from the equation
 
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