How-to: OBA for the RF Equipped X
After reviewing all of the different Compressor Mounting options, I still hadn’t found one that really worked for me. My goal was to find a spot which didn’t reduce storage space, allowed external Airline Access without having to drill large holes in the body, and still allowed interior access to a Quick Connect.
I came across This Thread by XNUT with Rear Window Mounted MOLLE Pouches. I PM’ed back and forth with him a couple of times and decided to try and tackle it and make my own version. Being that I suffer from ADOSS “Attention Deficit O’ Something Shiny”. I became distracted by what looked to be the perfect Mounting point for my Compressor. When I placed the Compressor in the Rear Fender Well - it fit perfectly and so began my easily distracted adventure of Mounting, Wiring, and Plumbing my version of the OBA.
Some Great Resources:
RGJones
Baf6
KneeBuster
usmc Xterra
buxwheat
Old Navy - Great link for OBA Parts and How-to’s
wisbike - OBA Plumbing
Oz - Reading this Thread is what started me down the right path
Found The Spot!!
![Image]()
Tools Needed:
![Image]()
A. PREP YOU PUMP:
1. Remove Factory Rubber Feet and Insert Grommets.
![Image]()
![Image]()
2. Take the Head Off the Pump and Re-tap Threads with ⅜ NPT which Makes it nice by Allowing you to Connect any Standard are Fitting.
BEFORE:
![Image]()
AFTER:
![Image]()
I ended up Buying a Plug for the Gauge and a 90 for the Filter due to Space Restrictions.
3. You can either choose to just Solder the existing Pump Wiring with additional length, just leave the Switch on before you close everything up or the Pump won't turn on. Or you can do what I did and bypass the Switch and Solder the two Black Wires together and run new Wiring throughout. I just didn’t want to take a chance with the Switch failing after I had it all closed up. The Pump is run off of a Ground Trigger and was actually quite confusing when I first took it apart.
![Image]()
B. DISASSEMBLE YOUR TRUCK
1. Remove Rear Cargo Storage / Floor Cover.
2. Remove In-floor Storage Container.
> a. Should be 5 Phillips Screws holding it in place.
3. Remove Rear Cargo Threshold.
4. Remove Right-side Tie-down Rail.
5. Remove Right Factory Tie-down.
6. Lower Seat Belt Anchor.
![Image]()
7. Remove Plastic Panel on Upper Seat Anchor. Pull strait back and it just pops off.
![Image]()
![Image]()
8. Remove Rear Cargo Cover bolt, 10mm.
![Image]()
9. Remove Right Rear Passenger Threshold. Has a couple of factory screws and pops right off.
10. Remove Rear Upper Cargo Area Trim Panel.
11. Remove Right Rear Lower Cargo Panel.
> a. Start by the Lift-gate.
![Image]()
> b. Cautiously pry the Trim out about 5” and Disconnect Rear Aux Power.
![Image]()
> c. Gently pull on Panel near Rear Window working back to front to pop loose the factory plastic screws.
> d. Go to the Right Rear Passenger Door and begin to pop the Trim loose working bottom to top. There is a clip towards the rear of the Lower Trim that attaches to the Pillar Trim with a clip that has to be popped loose before the factory screws will pop loose.
![Image]()
> e. Once you have the Panel completely disconnected from the Body, go to the Passenger Door and begin to lift it up and out until you slide it past the Rear Seats, then slide the Panel out the Cargo Door. This is so much easier to accomplish with 2 people.
![Image]()
12. Remove the Lower Seat Belt Re-tractor. You will see why in a minute. So stop wondering and just do it.
![Image]()
![Image]()
C. PUMP PLACEMENT & INSTALL
PLACEMENT:
1. Slide Pump into Rear Wheel Well. Line up the Pressure Gauge Hole, which is now plugged, with the large factory hole just behind the Lower Seat-belt Re-tractor bolt. Use a Sharpie to mark out the holes you are about to drill to mount the Pump.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
2. Drill the holes. If you have a 90 Degree Drill this will make the next step much easier. If not then just do it the way I had to. Get the smallest bit you have and drill Pilot Holes from the top because a Standard Drill with the bit you need for the lag bolts is too tall to fit in the Wheel Well. Once you have the Pilot Holes drilled, Jack your Truck up to allow enough room in your Wheel Well to fit the drill and finish the holes from below.
![Image]()
3. I used 3M Trim Tape between the Pump and the Well to avoid having annoying Vibrations.
![Image]()
INSTALL:
I used all Stainless nuts and bolts and then sealed them in with 3M RTV and more Trim Tape to make certain I avoided any Rust issues.
![Image]()
![Image]()
D. WIRING
Run you wiring from the Pump. This is subject to personal preference. I chose the Seat-belt Mount for my Ground and ran the Power Cable to the front.
INITIALLY:
![Image]()
FINISHED:
![Image]()
From the Battery. I built a Bracket out of Aluminum and affixed it to the Body with a Bracket screw that was already in place. Fits great and very easy to access.
INITIALLY:
![Image]()
FINISHED:
![Image]()
THROUGH THE FIRE WALL:
I chose this route because I really wanted to maintain a clean Engine Bay and it is 1/2 the distance of the Driver-side Grommet.
INITIALLY:
![Image]()
![Image]()
FINISHED:
![Image]()
THROUGH THE DASH:
![Image]()
TO THE RELAY:
![Image]()
E. SWITCH INSTALL
This part kinda sucks because you basically have to disassemble your entire Dash to get the Switch Panel out.
- You have to slide the entire Center Counsel back to get to the 2 remaining screws holding the Panel in place.
![Image]()
![Image]()
- Disassemble the Panel once its removed by removing the 6 circled screws.
![Image]()
- Insert the Switch into the blank of your choice. The Switch will fit nice and snug but allow enough adjustment to center it before re-installing the Switch Plate onto the Panel which will actually hold the Switch in place. Placing it between the two Panels also makes for a clean install that is kinda STEALTHY.
BEFORE:
![Image]()
AFTER:
![Image]()
SWITCH PLATE RE-INSTALLED:
![Image]()
F. INSTALL IN-CABIN OBA HOOKUP
Tools For This Part Of The Install:
- Drill
- 1/2" Drill Bit
- 1/4" Barbed Hose Fitting
- Swivel Adapter
- Sharpie
- Plumbers Tape
- Tape Measure
![Image]()
![Image]()
1. Mark out the spot, I just went half way between the Fins and the top of the Outer Edge.
![Image]()
![Image]()
2. Install the Swivel and Quick Disconnect with a washer on each side for stability.
![Image]()
3. Quick disconnect if I have to remove Panel again.
![Image]()
[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVTeNfowqXE"[/url]
VIDEO OF FINISHED PRODUCT
G. MOUNT & WIRE EXHAUST / COOLING FANS
Supplies Needed:
- 2 x 80mm Computer Box Fans from NewEgg out the Door Shipped for $5.00
![Image]()
- Razor Blade
- Hot Glue Gun
- Round Toggle switch and computer connector from Radio Shack
- Solder gun and heat shrink
1. There are little Fins on the back of the Panel that have to be cut off in order for the Fans to fit flush.
![Image]()
![Image]()
2. Use the Hot Glue Gun to secure the Fans to the Panel.
![Image]()
3. Strip the Wires back on the Yellow and Red Wires and twist them together. The Yellow Wire is used if you have a Fan Speed Module, seeing as I did not and just wanted them to be on full or off I connected the 2. Take the Pins from the Radio Shack Connector and crimp them on to the combined Yellow/Red and one onto the Black Wire and insert them into the Connector.
4. Tap into your Aux Power in the Rear Cargo area for Power and connect the other two Pins to the Positive and Negative and insert these into the other side of the Radio Shack Connector. This will make installation and possible future removal of the Panel much easier.
![Image]()
5. Now install your Toggle Switch on your Rear Cargo Panel that will Control your Exhaust / Cooling Fans. I centered mine with the Aux Power Plug and went about 2” below it. There is a fairly large void which allows some variability with your install, but make sure you drill below the Aux Power because it is located at the top of the void leaving you no backspace to seat the Switch in.
BEFORE:
![Image]()
AFTER:
![Image]()
H. RE-INSTALL PANEL:
![Image]()
FINISHED:
![Image]()
I also ran one of my Thermistor Probes from my How-to: Into The Wheel Well to Monitor the Pump Temp.
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showpost.php?p=560033&postcount=34
![Image]()
CONCLUSION:
Had a blast putting this plan into action and learned a ton along the way. I am more than happy to answer any questions or help with an install so feel free to PM.
After reviewing all of the different Compressor Mounting options, I still hadn’t found one that really worked for me. My goal was to find a spot which didn’t reduce storage space, allowed external Airline Access without having to drill large holes in the body, and still allowed interior access to a Quick Connect.
I came across This Thread by XNUT with Rear Window Mounted MOLLE Pouches. I PM’ed back and forth with him a couple of times and decided to try and tackle it and make my own version. Being that I suffer from ADOSS “Attention Deficit O’ Something Shiny”. I became distracted by what looked to be the perfect Mounting point for my Compressor. When I placed the Compressor in the Rear Fender Well - it fit perfectly and so began my easily distracted adventure of Mounting, Wiring, and Plumbing my version of the OBA.
Some Great Resources:
RGJones
Baf6
KneeBuster
usmc Xterra
buxwheat
Old Navy - Great link for OBA Parts and How-to’s
wisbike - OBA Plumbing
Oz - Reading this Thread is what started me down the right path
Found The Spot!!
Tools Needed:
A. PREP YOU PUMP:
1. Remove Factory Rubber Feet and Insert Grommets.
2. Take the Head Off the Pump and Re-tap Threads with ⅜ NPT which Makes it nice by Allowing you to Connect any Standard are Fitting.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
I ended up Buying a Plug for the Gauge and a 90 for the Filter due to Space Restrictions.
3. You can either choose to just Solder the existing Pump Wiring with additional length, just leave the Switch on before you close everything up or the Pump won't turn on. Or you can do what I did and bypass the Switch and Solder the two Black Wires together and run new Wiring throughout. I just didn’t want to take a chance with the Switch failing after I had it all closed up. The Pump is run off of a Ground Trigger and was actually quite confusing when I first took it apart.
B. DISASSEMBLE YOUR TRUCK
1. Remove Rear Cargo Storage / Floor Cover.
2. Remove In-floor Storage Container.
> a. Should be 5 Phillips Screws holding it in place.
3. Remove Rear Cargo Threshold.
4. Remove Right-side Tie-down Rail.
5. Remove Right Factory Tie-down.
6. Lower Seat Belt Anchor.
7. Remove Plastic Panel on Upper Seat Anchor. Pull strait back and it just pops off.
8. Remove Rear Cargo Cover bolt, 10mm.
9. Remove Right Rear Passenger Threshold. Has a couple of factory screws and pops right off.
10. Remove Rear Upper Cargo Area Trim Panel.
11. Remove Right Rear Lower Cargo Panel.
> a. Start by the Lift-gate.
> b. Cautiously pry the Trim out about 5” and Disconnect Rear Aux Power.
> c. Gently pull on Panel near Rear Window working back to front to pop loose the factory plastic screws.
> d. Go to the Right Rear Passenger Door and begin to pop the Trim loose working bottom to top. There is a clip towards the rear of the Lower Trim that attaches to the Pillar Trim with a clip that has to be popped loose before the factory screws will pop loose.
> e. Once you have the Panel completely disconnected from the Body, go to the Passenger Door and begin to lift it up and out until you slide it past the Rear Seats, then slide the Panel out the Cargo Door. This is so much easier to accomplish with 2 people.
12. Remove the Lower Seat Belt Re-tractor. You will see why in a minute. So stop wondering and just do it.
C. PUMP PLACEMENT & INSTALL
PLACEMENT:
1. Slide Pump into Rear Wheel Well. Line up the Pressure Gauge Hole, which is now plugged, with the large factory hole just behind the Lower Seat-belt Re-tractor bolt. Use a Sharpie to mark out the holes you are about to drill to mount the Pump.
2. Drill the holes. If you have a 90 Degree Drill this will make the next step much easier. If not then just do it the way I had to. Get the smallest bit you have and drill Pilot Holes from the top because a Standard Drill with the bit you need for the lag bolts is too tall to fit in the Wheel Well. Once you have the Pilot Holes drilled, Jack your Truck up to allow enough room in your Wheel Well to fit the drill and finish the holes from below.
3. I used 3M Trim Tape between the Pump and the Well to avoid having annoying Vibrations.
INSTALL:
I used all Stainless nuts and bolts and then sealed them in with 3M RTV and more Trim Tape to make certain I avoided any Rust issues.
D. WIRING
Run you wiring from the Pump. This is subject to personal preference. I chose the Seat-belt Mount for my Ground and ran the Power Cable to the front.
INITIALLY:
FINISHED:
From the Battery. I built a Bracket out of Aluminum and affixed it to the Body with a Bracket screw that was already in place. Fits great and very easy to access.
INITIALLY:
FINISHED:
THROUGH THE FIRE WALL:
I chose this route because I really wanted to maintain a clean Engine Bay and it is 1/2 the distance of the Driver-side Grommet.
INITIALLY:
FINISHED:
THROUGH THE DASH:
TO THE RELAY:
E. SWITCH INSTALL
This part kinda sucks because you basically have to disassemble your entire Dash to get the Switch Panel out.
- You have to slide the entire Center Counsel back to get to the 2 remaining screws holding the Panel in place.
- Disassemble the Panel once its removed by removing the 6 circled screws.
- Insert the Switch into the blank of your choice. The Switch will fit nice and snug but allow enough adjustment to center it before re-installing the Switch Plate onto the Panel which will actually hold the Switch in place. Placing it between the two Panels also makes for a clean install that is kinda STEALTHY.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
SWITCH PLATE RE-INSTALLED:
F. INSTALL IN-CABIN OBA HOOKUP
Tools For This Part Of The Install:
- Drill
- 1/2" Drill Bit
- 1/4" Barbed Hose Fitting
- Swivel Adapter
- Sharpie
- Plumbers Tape
- Tape Measure
1. Mark out the spot, I just went half way between the Fins and the top of the Outer Edge.
2. Install the Swivel and Quick Disconnect with a washer on each side for stability.
3. Quick disconnect if I have to remove Panel again.
[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVTeNfowqXE"[/url]
VIDEO OF FINISHED PRODUCT
G. MOUNT & WIRE EXHAUST / COOLING FANS
Supplies Needed:
- 2 x 80mm Computer Box Fans from NewEgg out the Door Shipped for $5.00
- Razor Blade
- Hot Glue Gun
- Round Toggle switch and computer connector from Radio Shack
- Solder gun and heat shrink
1. There are little Fins on the back of the Panel that have to be cut off in order for the Fans to fit flush.
2. Use the Hot Glue Gun to secure the Fans to the Panel.
3. Strip the Wires back on the Yellow and Red Wires and twist them together. The Yellow Wire is used if you have a Fan Speed Module, seeing as I did not and just wanted them to be on full or off I connected the 2. Take the Pins from the Radio Shack Connector and crimp them on to the combined Yellow/Red and one onto the Black Wire and insert them into the Connector.
4. Tap into your Aux Power in the Rear Cargo area for Power and connect the other two Pins to the Positive and Negative and insert these into the other side of the Radio Shack Connector. This will make installation and possible future removal of the Panel much easier.
5. Now install your Toggle Switch on your Rear Cargo Panel that will Control your Exhaust / Cooling Fans. I centered mine with the Aux Power Plug and went about 2” below it. There is a fairly large void which allows some variability with your install, but make sure you drill below the Aux Power because it is located at the top of the void leaving you no backspace to seat the Switch in.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
H. RE-INSTALL PANEL:
FINISHED:
I also ran one of my Thermistor Probes from my How-to: Into The Wheel Well to Monitor the Pump Temp.
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showpost.php?p=560033&postcount=34
CONCLUSION:
Had a blast putting this plan into action and learned a ton along the way. I am more than happy to answer any questions or help with an install so feel free to PM.
