2005 & higher....all 2nd gens

 

I don't like receiver rust. I can only think of two solutions.

I can clean the rust out, paint, repeat as needed. Not wild for this because I think it will need done twice a year.

I could also clean up the rust and then grease it, but I use too many different ball mounts and hitch haulers. There would be grease everywhere in the back of the X and the garage.

Anybody have a good option three?

 

I don't like receiver rust. I can only think of two solutions.



I can clean the rust out, paint, repeat as needed. Not wild for this because I think it will need done twice a year.



I could also clean up the rust and then grease it, but I use too many different ball mounts and hitch haulers. There would be grease everywhere in the back of the X and the garage.



Anybody have a good option three?

Oil?

I don't worry about it on mine.

 

Option 3.....deal with it like everyone else does ;-)

Go to Wal-Mart and get one of those hard plastic inserts that fills the hole

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

This may be a particularly dumb question, but it possible to body-lift half of the X?

Like say you have a 6" lift in the rear, but 3" in front and want to clear for 35's but don't need anymore height in the rear. Can you just do a BL on the front-half?

My guess is "no" because all the bolts would be at too much of an angle making it too easy for them to shear off, but I'm not sure.

 

I am in no way condoning this idea, but I would say you'd need to stagger the height of the lift blocks. 3"+ at the very front, 2.5", 2", etc as needed.

Great question, but I must agree with your first statement. Gave me a good laugh though

 

Don't flame me please, this is the dumb ??? thread. 2012 pox what is the thing towards the rear of the reading lights? front is sunglasses holder, middle is map lights (reading lights) behind that is something with a small hole and what appears as a small sensor of some sorts.

 

I have an 07 so I don't have that. But could it be the mic for Bluetooth?

 

It is where the bluetooth microphone is.

 

That's all it is. My guess is it is a universal part that another vehicle may have more features with.

 

Thanks, that had been bothering me and I saw nothing in the book about it.

 

Ooh, I'm good at this thread. Where is the manual supposed to go? Mine has velcro on it but neither glove box has anything for velcro to sick to.

 

I struck mine to the carpet under the back seat.

 

The receiver rust question got me thinking. Do other steel components like sliders and bumpers rust as fast as receivers seem to? I'm in the Northeast and road salt is liberally applied here (though I do regular underbody washes in the winter). I am about to order sliders and a rear bumper and was wondering if I'll always be dealing with corrosion on those parts.

 

 

Could the duration of the delay for the wipers be changed by someone with CONSULT II?

 

Wait... are there X's that don't have the adjustable intermittent wipers?

 

I could dig it. I would be most interested to somehow force the intermittent setting for the rear wiper to base its delay time off of the front wiper.

Good luck

 

I would be most interested to somehow force the intermittent setting for the rear wiper to base its delay time off of the front wiper.

I've had that exact same thought.

All I want is infinite adjustability for zero dollars spent. Is that so much to ask?

 

This is Nissan not burger king

 

You're harshing my mellow, man.

 

Just get one of these and you'll feel better:

 

Hopefully this isn't the dumbest question in this thread...

When people refer to seized cam bolts, what exactly gets seized? Is it the nut, or the bolt inside the arm.

I feel like it has to be the bolt that is seized inside the lca. No nut on my X has stood up to the 8ft breaker bar yet and I'll be damned if this is the one to do it.

 

The bolt seizes into the metal sleeve of the lower control arm bushing. If it seized and you get it to spin you've actually torn all the rubber holding the sleeve to the bushing.

 

Question about Drop Bracket travel

I have a question about suspension travel and drop bracket lifts.

Imagine you have the coilover out in front. The CV binds here (Titan swap):

However, when moving the hub upwards, you find that full "stuff" is actually not at bind of the CV joint, but instead where the bump-stop on the LCA hits. You can probably get 50% more up-travel if there was nothing in the way before the CV binds. In fact I'd say the CV is closer to neutral than it is to the binding point when at max up-travel.

This pic is maximum up-travel:

Now on my Titan swap, with ideal setup I have around 10"-10.5" of travel, and the CV at ride height is angled downward.

If you add a drop-bracket lift and make the CV angle "neutral" at ride height, would you be able to get more up travel because you have more room before you hit the bump-stop? Could you get to like ~14-15" of travel this way if you used a longer coilover?

 

the bump stop is there to protect the coilover from crushing itself. The length of coilover is what limits the up travel (usually down travel is maxed out on the titan swaps). A drop bracket can give you more travel because you can get a longer coilover in there now. How much more? I have no clue.

 

I love this thread. I get to think out loud along with you and hopefully nobody judges too harshly.



So given that and what Albatross and others have said, the ideal setup with the drop bracket would be an relatively level CV angle at ride height, with a coilover compressed to approximately half its available travel? And overall coilover travel limited to just within CV bind angles at full stuff and full droop? Sounds great on paper in terms of having maximum articulation up and down. But, this is coming from a guy who's happy with the hunk of aluminum on top of his stock coilovers and just glad it doesn't go THUNK when I go over bumps.

 

i think it would indeed allow for more up travel but might even reduce your down travel.

stock the LCAs and CVs are in essence parallel: Distance between CamBolt to Diff flange is the same/close to the LBJ and Hub

drop bracket you are now increasing the distance between CamBolt and Diff flange and keeping the LBJ and Hub so your CV would bind sooner than in stock.

unless you did a diff drop kit which would then cancel it out some.

 

unless you did a diff drop kit which would then cancel it out some.

I always thought "diff drop kit" and "drop bracket" were synonymous... is that not right? Don't think you would do one without the other.

 

a drop bracket drops the diff down. So...yeah...diff drop kit....drop bracket...fairly certain they're the same thing ;-)

 

I guess it depends on what your goal and needs are. I play in the rocks, and decided against the drop bracket because I want as much clearance as possible up front without being too tall. It would be nice to get the "belly" of the xterra up higher though.

 

^^^wonder what the windshield glare is like.

 

His interior map light doesn't work....

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Jeffnjm3 runs a Titan swap and 35's with no body lift. Check out how he trimmed his fenders.

http://www.thenewx.org/forum/50-mem...njm3s-xterra-now-titan-swap-4-56s-35-mtrs-general-badassery-16.html#post3278081

 

There is no way you can run 35's without a BL on a TS without trimming the top of the fender without severely limiting up travel. I'm pretty sure 35's are still going to rub mine even with the 2" BL

Oh, and hardcore makes BL brackets for your bumper to lift it up. I'll have mine in 2 weeks or so.

I thought VERY hard about doing a TS + Drop bracket, but after talking to golf286 and looking at everything the rear needs to get it up high enough (pretty much have to SOA, which I'm not a huge fan of), I decided to stick with TS + BL instead.