[djyoder27]

Maybe I missed it, but have you said why you are wanting new leafs? Have you considered Timbren bump stops to soften the bottoming out?

Also, have you considered just getting some lower mileage take off OEM (not OME) leafs from someone that immediately upgraded a newer vehicle?

I haven't mentioned all the reasons I am wanting to do something to the rear. One I did say was that I am pretty sure these are the originals and they have 120,000 miles on them. Which means they are plenty soft and a little bouncy. Would like to fix that first off.

I will be doing some towing so a stiffer than OEM rear end would be nice for that. Especially when I go to pick up a few thousand pound stump grinder this spring! I have a lot of stumps to grind...

I am not doing it for a lift, but I have no problem with adding the 1-2" that would come with a pack of OME's or an AAL. While there are not trails in Indiana like most of you get to enjoy I will be taking vacations to visit those trails. So getting the ride a little higher with more wheel travel is an added benefit. And I do live about 45 min from Hoosier National Forest which has at least some places to have a little fun.

 

[dreamX]

I have OME mediums and while they are nice packs for my needs, the popping/clunking of the shifting leaf packs is annoying as ****

I would have rather gotten the Alcans. On my next vehicle they will be Alcans, to me its worth the extra money to not have my truck pop around every turn i take.

 

[jsexton]

If you don't want a lift, you should consider firestone air bags. That would be a better fit for what you describe anyway, just adjust them as needed.

 

[Glamisdude]

So I'll comment a bit on this...

I've had my OME packs for over 70k miles now (Frontier mind you so some small differences). I've gone through 2 sets of bushings (only like $30 to replace), one set of anti friction pucks, many types of lube, and many pack re configs. I've learned some things over this time. Found that you can eliminate any squeaking with some slight mods to the packs.

For squeaking:
Disassemble the pack and place one of these between each leaf (not overloads). You'll need to drill the center hole of them slightly larger to go around the center pin. These make it so that each leaf only touches the ones around it at the center and at the anti friction pucks. No need for any lube between each leaf anymore after this. Also makes the packs more active due to less internal friction. Also if you are missing/ have worn anti friction pucks, the OME ones suck. These are the ones I used to replace the original ones.
On the retainers, most of my plastic things have broken at this point and the side of each leaf rubbing here is where most of my noise squeaks come from. To fix this, get some 1" or so heat shrink tubing and put it on each retainer. It will last a year or so before it rubs thru.
These get rid of all squeaks assuming your u bolts are tight enough. All of the stuff mentioned above is borrowed from Chevy 1500 packs which are said to be some of the best made.

For popping/ balloon noises:
These come from the bushings nearly 100% of the time. The best way to solve is to disassemble and re lube with quality grease. This will last about 6 months before the noises come back. The best spray lube to use to shut them up for a few months is a wax motorcycle chain lube. This will quiet them down for a month or so. I'm still working on a long term fix for this but will be trying some things in a few months (greasable bolts, shackles, different/ rubber bushings).

 

[IssacHunter]

So I'll comment a bit on this...

I've had my OME packs for over 70k miles now (Frontier mind you so some small differences). I've gone through 2 sets of bushings (only like $30 to replace), one set of anti friction pucks, many types of lube, and many pack re configs. I've learned some things over this time. Found that you can eliminate any squeaking with some slight mods to the packs.

For squeaking:
Disassemble the pack and place one of these between each leaf (not overloads). You'll need to drill the center hole of them slightly larger to go around the center pin. These make it so that each leaf only touches the ones around it at the center and at the anti friction pucks. No need for any lube between each leaf anymore after this. Also makes the packs more active due to less internal friction. Also if you are missing/ have worn anti friction pucks, the OME ones suck. These are the ones I used to replace the original ones.
On the retainers, most of my plastic things have broken at this point and the side of each leaf rubbing here is where most of my noise squeaks come from. To fix this, get some 1" or so heat shrink tubing and put it on each retainer. It will last a year or so before it rubs thru.
These get rid of all squeaks assuming your u bolts are tight enough. All of the stuff mentioned above is borrowed from Chevy 1500 packs which are said to be some of the best made.

For popping/ balloon noises:
These come from the bushings nearly 100% of the time. The best way to solve is to disassemble and re lube with quality grease. This will last about 6 months before the noises come back. The best spray lube to use to shut them up for a few months is a wax motorcycle chain lube. This will quiet them down for a month or so. I'm still working on a long term fix for this but will be trying some things in a few months (greasable bolts, shackles, different/ rubber bushings).

Interesting. I'll try this on mine. How long do those strong ties hold up?

 

[Glamisdude]

Interesting. I'll try this on mine. How long do those strong ties hold up?

Should be indefinitely. Over 10k on the ones I put in mine and they don't show any signs of wear. For those in areas where they salt the road you may want to paint them even though they are galvanized.

 

[Maverick]

My OMEs are poppy and noisy as all hell. You can feel the clunk when it pops. Gonna put my gopro under it soon and see what's up but I imagine it's just the leaves sliding against each other.


I'm disappointed I didn't just fork out a couple hundred more for the Alcan.

 

[JFanaselle]

So I'll comment a bit on this...

I've had my OME packs for over 70k miles now (Frontier mind you so some small differences). I've gone through 2 sets of bushings (only like $30 to replace), one set of anti friction pucks, many types of lube, and many pack re configs. I've learned some things over this time. Found that you can eliminate any squeaking with some slight mods to the packs.

For squeaking:
Disassemble the pack and place one of these between each leaf (not overloads). You'll need to drill the center hole of them slightly larger to go around the center pin. These make it so that each leaf only touches the ones around it at the center and at the anti friction pucks. No need for any lube between each leaf anymore after this. Also makes the packs more active due to less internal friction. Also if you are missing/ have worn anti friction pucks, the OME ones suck. These are the ones I used to replace the original ones.
On the retainers, most of my plastic things have broken at this point and the side of each leaf rubbing here is where most of my noise squeaks come from. To fix this, get some 1" or so heat shrink tubing and put it on each retainer. It will last a year or so before it rubs thru.
These get rid of all squeaks assuming your u bolts are tight enough. All of the stuff mentioned above is borrowed from Chevy 1500 packs which are said to be some of the best made.

For popping/ balloon noises:
These come from the bushings nearly 100% of the time. The best way to solve is to disassemble and re lube with quality grease. This will last about 6 months before the noises come back. The best spray lube to use to shut them up for a few months is a wax motorcycle chain lube. This will quiet them down for a month or so. I'm still working on a long term fix for this but will be trying some things in a few months (greasable bolts, shackles, different/ rubber bushings).

This is some great stuff! Since I'll be pulling my pack apart to install my HD AAL anyway, I'll do this. Are you running the HD packs, or just the standard (medium duty) ones? It doesn't even look like the HD AAL has a hole for the isolator pucks, so I may have to drill them myself or epoxy them in place. Did you have to do either?

 

[Glamisdude]

This is some great stuff! Since I'll be pulling my pack apart to install my HD AAL anyway, I'll do this. Are you running the HD packs, or just the standard (medium duty) ones? It doesn't even look like the HD AAL has a hole for the isolator pucks, so I may have to drill them myself or epoxy them in place. Did you have to do either?

Currently I'm running a modified MD config, which is just meh... Once I get some time again I plan to change it up.

My HD leafs have holes for the pucks, so I didn't have to do either. I just pounded in the Chevy anti friction pucks with a plastic hammer into the existing holes. If you choose to put some in, you'll need to trim the tail for the #1 leaf so it does not contact the #2 leaf since they are the same length. Epoxy will not work well for those, you'll need to drill the hole if they don't already have them. Cobalt bits on a slow speed with lots of cutting oil will do the trick. Its very easy to cook the bit on the leaf spring steel, go slow and steady.

Here are the combos I've tried in the order with mods added in:

HD- (originally purchased this way) Ran for about 30k miles. It was too stiff unloaded and a bit high for my taste. Worked great when heavily loaded.

MD- (extra leaf removed) Ran for 20k miles. Ride was a great compromise of unloaded smoothness and loaded support. Was still a bit high for my liking.
About half way through this version I had to replace the bushings and anti friction pucks (all were well worn). While I had it apart, I tried some 3mm UMMV anti friction tape between each leaf. The tape worked great initially but eventually wore through and made it worse. This was also where I added the heat shrink to the retainers.

MD minus large overload- (currently installed) About 20k on this so far. Ride was fantastic initially but the pack has settled some so now it sits on the overload fairly quickly. A small load will make the ride not great. The ride height is perfect for me at about 1". This was when I added in the tie plate spacers and removed what was left of the anti friction tape. The spacers made a huge difference in small bump compliance!

HD minus small overload- (planned change) This will be the winner for me I think. Having only the large overload will make for more squat but a more compliant ride while loaded. The large overload also has slightly more negative arch meaning it will engage later in the travel. By putting the HD leaf back in, it should bring some life back to my packs with minimal lift added. This will also add about 50 lb/in to the overall spring rate to make up for the overload coming in later. I plan on swapping the bushings out again (possibly to rubber over poly) during this change as my shackle bushings are in pretty bad shape already. I'll also redo the heat shrink as some have worn through.

As for other general improvements, I picked up a set of stock shackles that I plan to drill and add some zerk fittings for some diy greasable shackles. Whiles its apart again, I also plan to measure the front eye bolt to look at replacing it with a greasable bolt.

 

[djyoder27]

Well I think I am going to pass on the OME's. Just too much negative out there for a 400+ price point. Think I will probably do a saal to revive the stock pack for a few years.

Can always save up over that period and then get alcans if I feel like it.

Is there any difference between the prg and the nisstec add a leaf?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

 

[Ssanders224]

Well this sucks.
I was literally about to order a full OME MD kit this morning, and just saw this thread.

I wouldn't be able to handle popping and squeaking from new suspension setup... so I guess I'll hold off dang it.

What's the solution here? OME up front with Alcans and OME shocks in the back?

 

[Glamisdude]

^ Well nearly anything that has poly bushings (Alcans included) will make noise eventually. The squeaking can easily be removed from any leaf pack, but if you want quiet, there is a reason that all OEMs use rubber bushings. Rubber has lower NVH all around, in my experience poly bushing are nothing but trouble.

 

[Ssanders224]

^ Well nearly anything that has poly bushings (Alcans included) will make noise eventually. The squeaking can easily be removed from any leaf pack, but if you want quiet, there is a reason that all OEMs use rubber bushings. Rubber has lower NVH all around, in my experience poly bushing are nothing but trouble.

Well, based and this thread and a couple of others, the squeaking isn't so easily removed from the Dakars? Looks like quite a few people have been chasing the squeaking and popping for a long time. I'm not interested in spending $1500 on suspension only to have to listen to "popping balloons" in my rear end.

Are there rubber bushings people are using with the Dakar packs? Do OEM ones work?

 

[IssacHunter]

Well, based and this thread and a couple of others, the squeaking isn't so easily removed from the Dakars? Looks like quite a few people have been chasing the squeaking and popping for a long time. I'm not interested in spending $1500 on suspension only to have to listen to "popping balloons" in my rear end.

Are there rubber bushings people are using with the Dakar packs? Do OEM ones work?

I did Glamisdude's suggestions for the leafs and mine are now fairly quiet. You sometimes still hear a pop here and there but it's worked out quite nicely.

 

[Ssanders224]

I did Glamisdude's suggestions for the leafs and mine are now fairly quiet. You sometimes still hear a pop here and there but it's worked out quite nicely.

Yea, I guess the thought of having to disassemble brand new leaf packs and put in hardware from Home Depot isn't real appealing. I'm hoping there is a way to lift this thing a little and get a better ride without adding noise?

I'd just substitute Alcans for the dakar packs... but I've read a little about noise with those as well.

 

[Maverick]

If you've got the money you could go Alcan.

I've got OME right now and they're noisy, so are their bushings. I also like carrying a lot of weight and the ability to get 600lb+ springs is nice.


That said they aren't Bad by any means.


Also, don't get the aluminum shims if you go with NissTec, because they suck. (they might be zinc or zinc coated). Get steel.

 

[IssacHunter]

Yea, I guess the thought of having to disassemble brand new leaf packs and put in hardware from Home Depot isn't real appealing. I'm hoping there is a way to lift this thing a little and get a better ride without adding noise?

I'd just substitute Alcans for the dakar packs... but I've read a little about noise with those as well.

Well we take brand new OEM suspension and change it too so not very different and took me roughly 20mins to do. Remember we are adding aftermarket parts so noises happens but if you just want a lift in the rear you could just do an AAL with the OEM packs.

 

[IssacHunter]

Well this sucks.
I was literally about to order a full OME MD kit this morning, and just saw this thread.

I wouldn't be able to handle popping and squeaking from new suspension setup... so I guess I'll hold off dang it.

What's the solution here? OME up front with Alcans and OME shocks in the back?

Alcans are the best but are a waste if you aren't going to get a 3" plus version imo. Their are cheaper options like General Springs.

You need to ask yourself what is your price range?

If you want the best on an non-Titerra then that would argubly be SPC UCA, Radflo extended travels with Radflo rear shocks and Alcans with option 1" on coil spacer and PNG/Nisstec shackles

 

[Ssanders224]

Well we take brand new OEM suspension and change it too so not very different and took me roughly 20mins to do. Remember we are adding aftermarket parts so noises happens but if you just want a lift in the rear you could just do an AAL with the OEM packs.

Yea, I hear ya. OEM packs are shot though. Been running helpers for 10,000 miles (126k on 2012p4x).

 

[Ssanders224]

Alcans are the best but are a waste if you aren't going to get a 3" plus version imo. Their are cheaper options like General Springs.

You need to ask yourself what is your price range?

If you want the best on an non-Titerra then that would argubly be SPC UCA, Radflo extended travels with Radflo rear shocks and Alcans with option 1" on coil spacer and PNG/Nisstec shackles

I can flex my price range if it gets me better/quieter ride.

I don't need extended travel, I don't do much hard wheeling. Commute on highway pavement every day, and a lot of rough gravel roads and logging roads. Just want a little lift and a nice handling, quiet ride.