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Stuff like that, I hit with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Makes it easy peezy. A stripping wheel like that above is great too.


Yep, I just cleaned up a set of rock sliders with a wire cup https://m.harborfreight.com/3-inch-...t.com/3-inch-twisted-wire-cup-brush-47927.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided
and hit them with this
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Ole...793&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=16816075&wl13=&veh=sem

It worked out pretty good, but only time will tell.



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^^^ this. You’re not going to want to have to fight it like that when you’re at a 30 degree angle in mud and rocks trying to attach a strap.

FWIW the normal shackle size for the weight of our SUVs and trucks is pretty much standardized as a 3/4” shackle. Which has a pin diameter of 0.88”. Most bumpers have 1” holes to accommodate this. My guess is someone didn’t know that and just drilled a 3/4” hole. The pin of a 5/8” shackle is 3/4” diameter. Which is what you are jamming into a 3/4” hole with no wiggle room.

Your best bet is to drill to 1” and get some 3/4” shackles. I wonder if the seller is aware of this.

https://yarcable.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/Crosby-Screw-Pin-Shackle-Info.pdf
 
Unfortunately, the holes specified by @zach_attack for his shackle brackets were too small. It is a design defect that needs to be addressed by the end user because a shackle pin should never fit that tightly.

You need to enlarge the hole, not force the pin in with a hammer.


Makes sense. My hitch shackle has more wiggle room. No hammer was involved but it’s a tad tight. Gonna have to enlarge it a tad.


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^^^ this. You’re not going to want to have to fight it like that when you’re at a 30 degree angle in mud and rocks trying to attach a strap.

FWIW the normal shackle size for the weight of our SUVs and trucks is pretty much standardized as a 3/4” shackle. Which has a pin diameter of 0.88”. Most bumpers have 1” holes to accommodate this. My guess is someone didn’t know that and just drilled a 3/4” hole. The pin of a 5/8” shackle is 3/4” diameter. Which is what you are jamming into a 3/4” hole with no wiggle room.

Your best bet is to drill to 1” and get some 3/4” shackles. I wonder if the seller is aware of this.

https://yarcable.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/Crosby-Screw-Pin-Shackle-Info.pdf


I’d prefer the standard shackle but I’m not equipped to bore out a larger hole. I think I can enlarge this so that 5/8 fits well. How critical do you think it would be to go to the regular shackle? The ones I got have a 4.5 wll.


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Titan Swap Cost (Pro4x)

So this is probably a dumb question but here it goes. I have been thinking about a titan swap and if I really need it. I had no idea how expensive it is. Can someone see if I am in the right ballpark for cost? I am comparing a regular lift with custom UCAs and a titan swap. I am not considering rear lift since ALCANs cost more or less the same.

Titanswap:
SPC UCA: 580
RadFlow: 859
SPC LCA: 1099
Tie rods: ~150
Brake Lines: ~90
Cams: ~25
Wheel Spacer: ~365
Extended Axles: ~680
Total Titan Swap: $ 3848

Lift:
SPC UCA: 507
RadFlo: 859
Total Lift Cost: $ 1366

The titan swap is a good $ 2500 more, or a rear and front bumper plus skids. This doesn't even consider the fact that the titan swap is significantly more difficult to install.

Anyways, is this true? Is a titan swap really that expensive?

Thanks,
Red
 
So this is probably a dumb question but here it goes. I have been thinking about a titan swap and if I really need it. I had no idea how expensive it is. Can someone see if I am in the right ballpark for cost? I am comparing a regular lift with custom UCAs and a titan swap. I am not considering rear lift since ALCANs cost more or less the same.

Titanswap:
SPC UCA: 580
RadFlow: 859
SPC LCA: 1099
Tie rods: ~150
Brake Lines: ~90
Cams: ~25
Wheel Spacer: ~365
Extended Axles: ~680
Total Titan Swap: $ 3848

Lift:
SPC UCA: 507
RadFlo: 859
Total Lift Cost: $ 1366

The titan swap is a good $ 2500 more, or a rear and front bumper plus skids. This doesn't even consider the fact that the titan swap is significantly more difficult to install.

Anyways, is this true? Is a titan swap really that expensive?

Thanks,
Red
Just buy Moog LCAs for about $150, brake lines can be found at less than $90. Axles are less than half your projected price if you buy from Rugged Rocks. Heck, Nisstec's fully assembled axles are less than what you posted. Where the heck did you get these prices from? I did the swap for about $1.6K using the Tundra Bilsteins. I have Radflos now, though.
Image


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Just buy Moog LCAs for about $150, brake lines can be found at less than $90. Axles are less than half your projected price if you buy from Rugged Rocks. Heck, Nisstec's fully assembled axles are less than what you posted. Where the heck did you get these prices from? I did the swap for about $1.6K using the Tundra Bilsteins. I have Radflos now, though.
Image


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How come you don't have any wheel spacers?
 
How do you get the rear wheels to line up with the front then?
Oh come on. You know I have wheel spacers, but that's not part of the swap itself, that's why they're not on the list.

I tried to show you parts that will prevent you from spending so much money, if you're going to nit-pick it, just move on.

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Don't really feel like getting bent over by the electrical folks, what should I expect to pay in labor after about $300 spent through them on the headunit?

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It's not hard to do it yourself, just get the adapter harness and splice the harness out of the vehicle, then just hook everything up

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