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After spending the money on radflo's im not switching lol. I do really appreciate the input! I was considering moving that lower mount down but because my tire is stuffing into the frame rail I didn't think it would benefit me any? unless im wrong?
I completely understand not wanting to take the loss on switching shocks now. Especially because it would probably be hard to find a buyer for those Radflos.

You could gain a bit by moving the lower mount. When you are at full stuff think of moving the shock in an arc. Not changing the length, just rotating it toward the rear of the vehicle until its behind the axle instead of on top. That would help with the angle, wouldn't change where it limits stuff and should actually improve your final droop. It's all marginal gains but if you're planning on being in there with a torch and a welder anyway...

Oh, and if your shocks aren't fully extended at max droop than you absolutely should invest the time to move those lower mounts down! All pros and no cons (besides the effort).

It's fine.

Your shocks don't do much when you are at full stuff anyway. I've never once been fully flexed AND driving over 7mph at the same time
Max articulation, yeah sure. But full stuff also includes bottoming (or nearly bottoming) out over big bumps. (Same goes for the argument about the tire hitting the frame rail at full stuff.) Although he has a lot of travel, if he's fully compressing by just flexing it out he will easily bottom in out on bumps. Bypass shocks and hydraulic bump stops are designed to increase compression at the end of the travel, this angled shock setup will do the opposite. Won't matter much crawling, will matter when bashing sand or forest service roads.

Also, I didn't see wheel spacers in the build list. More than just evening out the track width difference from the front, those will help push the tires away from the frame rails. Obviously only useful in the rear since you have the TS up front.
 
Discussion starter · #503 ·
final droop still has a lot to go. when I did some testing on lift by picking up one front tire the rear drooped a lot more than in my photos. so really I would only be gaining a better angle at full stuff right? which at this point is limited by my tire anyways. it looks like the shock is bottomed out but it actually isn't. the shock has a rubber stop on it and it was still loose when stuffed. so I guess is it really worth it to cut and remount!?
 
final droop still has a lot to go. when I did some testing on lift by picking up one front tire the rear drooped a lot more than in my photos. so really I would only be gaining a better angle at full stuff right? which at this point is limited by my tire anyways. it looks like the shock is bottomed out but it actually isn't. the shock has a rubber stop on it and it was still loose when stuffed. so I guess is it really worth it to cut and remount!?
It's your call, but I'd say so. If the shocks don't fully extended at full droop then there isn't any good reason to leave them the way they are besides less work. They might not be fully bottomed out in a static full flex but although you won't be going fast you will likely take a decent bump at full articulation. Having a little more up travel in that position can be very beneficial, mostly in terms of clearing an obstacle.

You Gain:
  1. More up travel (and total travel if you aren't limiting you max droop)
  2. Bottom out resistance
  3. Useful suspension travel after fully articulating
  4. Better dampening, especially at the most critical part of the suspension travel

You Lose:
  1. A little time this weekend

That's the way I see it. I'd be interested to hear the opinions of some of the "suspension experts" on hear like skibum315, PRGgreg, etc.
 
I agree and disagree with so many points that have been posted, I'm going to call you PJ. If I cant catch you I'll type stuff our later. For the most part, NixX has good points as does steady high and el zilcho.
 
I agree and disagree with so many points that have been posted, I'm going to call you PJ. If I cant catch you I'll type stuff our later. For the most part, NixX has good points as does steady high and el zilcho.
Called, talked, ready to go to Rubi :)
 
Well heck ... now I'm curious about S&S's opinion. ... and while I'm flattered to have been solicited for comment by NixX, I'm hardly a suspension expert. I do like the sound of these Short Body 7100s, though.
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details on the VDC off switch! I was unaware we could do an aftermarket switch for it.
VDC Off is just a button-style switch. You can pull out the assembly, yank the wires, and plug them into any old switch that you want (that matches the pin configuration). For kicks, you could even try replacing it with a non-locking momentary button (which will drive your computer nuts!). Or for those "THROW ZE SVITCH!" moments, you can even try a knife switch :D
 
Discussion starter · #518 ·
no, ill do that now!

So, minus my lack of SOA you seem to have built a west coast version on my Beast! Ole!
thanks! your rig has always been the look i have been going for!
Awesome rig dude! Well done.
thanks!

How well do your red accents hold up against mud and other stuff, like does it chip? I'm interested in having similar parts painted red, but I won't be if they require repainting commonly.
pretty good, havent had issues yet, but the parts are still new.

details on the VDC off switch! I was unaware we could do an aftermarket switch for it.
ottratw makes the switch, its a momentary switch. like TPO said, just splice wires :) there is a how:to
 
Discussion starter · #519 ·
productive day! installed hatch struts


And ran air lines for lockers and installed my tank for OBA.

Stripped the cargo area.


drilled a hole in the bottom of the right rear wheel well area. this hole is for the OBA, i drilled a smaller hole for both lockers


added brackets to my upper shock tube to mount the tank.



tank all plummed up!


Quick fitting on rear bumper


And i how i finished up the night. hopefully i will finish things up tomorrow.
 
That hood strut kit turned out nice, message me the link. Maybe one of these days I'll come down your way again and do that. Also, if you have a part number for the Napa breather nipple send that too.
 
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