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maXTERRA's Build Thread - Latest Updates May 2016

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#41 ·
I'm a big newb when it comes to electrical but I did solder my abs wires after extending them and I noticed that the abs wires are very thin and after solder the y are very fragile and liked to snap on me. I went with heat shrinkable plastic connectors and then heat shrink and it worked a lot better.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#42 ·
Have you seen any damage to the Timbren bump stops by the u bolts being flipped? I know my stock bump stops are kind of torn up from the u bolts being stuffed against them. I want to install Timbrens, but am hesitant to sink that kind of money into something that is going to be torn up by the u bolts.

My only idea (which it looks like you did in the pictures) was to keep them as short as possible so they are flush with the nuts and hope that they didn't do as much damage.
 
#43 ·
Killswitch said:
Have you seen any damage to the Timbren bump stops by the u bolts being flipped? I know my stock bump stops are kind of torn up from the u bolts being stuffed against them. I want to install Timbrens, but am hesitant to sink that kind of money into something that is going to be torn up by the u bolts.

My only idea (which it looks like you did in the pictures) was to keep them as short as possible so they are flush with the nuts and hope that they didn't do as much damage.
Click to expand...
I was worried about that too.
thats why i put U-bolt skidplates on instead of the flip kit.
 
#44 ·
Dave,
Can you post a pic of the drive shaft mod? Seems people have overlooked it being noted in your build thread, but noticed when I posted in "what have you done...". Now they want more info, and I'm too ignorant to explain it.
 
#47 ·
do you have your air compressor mounted externally? It looks like it is. Do you not have any worries about water and such ruining it? everything I have read says to keep the compressor away from contact with water.

I was looking to install an OBA system in the OEM spare area like you did but after reading not to install the compressor where it can get real wet, I have been looking at other locations.

is your compressor rated for exposure to the elements?
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
^^ The compressor is mounted up as high as possible just in front of the back bumper and the intake filter is behind the LH tail light.
Have been thru numerous water crossings, though no stop/submerged situations which I would think would be bad.
No issues thus far and working great. Definitely don't want that noisy hot thing inside.
Been back there about a year now.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
New Front bumper finished

Finally got to finish up the new front bumper for maxterra.
I loved the old one, but soon going with a 2" body lift, 4:56's & 35's.
Didn't want to hack up the old bumper, so it's sold and do myself a new one with adjustable frame mounting.

Went with integral LED lighting this time, and even added LED daytime running lights as is so popular in all the new cars. They're 9w stud mount on the wings in the esmall dimpled holes.
Aurora 2" clear & amber pods on each side and a 20" bar on top (will finish off with a 40" curved roof bar soon).







Turned out pretty nice I think, but a major PITA (again) to build. I first tried running the lower wings up and connecting just before the wrap around bend, but it would have showed and exposed too much stuff behind it, so the tedious task of the bends and slowwww fiitting to get it to all come together.
Filler plates are slow work and a few do-overs with different hole layouts.
Even the little led lamps mounting was slow as I had to make a little fixture thru the hole to mount them all the same alignment plane.

Will have to re-do the lower skid with the body lift, thus it's just painted black for now.

Lotta little things to do before Sunday leaving gore GONE, but getting closer.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Still need to get a factor55 flatlink hook for the winch line.
Probably time to change the winch line too, as it's been on there at least 4 years, and the hook end has been out in the weather all that time (hence the factor55 end).

Oh, and I added the amber turn indicator LEDs out on the corner again, as I really liked those on the last bumper too.

Now I just need LED headlight conversion to match the rest!!
 
#51 ·
Impressive work as usual, Dave!! Custom work is sooo incredibly laborious, isn't it?!? But, in the end you get something totally unique and original. How many hours would you estimate you have into that thing anyway?
 
#54 ·
#56 ·
maXTERRA's Build Thread - latest updates May 2016

retrograde said:
Dave, what brand/color powder did your powder coater use on the bumper?

Maybe Prismatic Powders' Silver Vein or Grey Silver?

http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/PVB-5825/VIBRANT-SILVER-VEIN/
http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/P-8116B/GREYSILVER/

I've looking at powders for some future armor upgrades and like Prismatic because their texture and vein/hammertones have good impact resistance specs. That isn't always true for other powder brands.
Click to expand...
Pretty sure that is silver vein.
 
#57 ·
SonOfThor said:
Pretty sure that is silver vein.
Click to expand...
I saw your clue and wanted to confirm with Maxterra since I have to order the powder for my project. Prismatic is a good guess because they sell in small quantities. But there could be silver veins from other power suppliers.

My buddy runs Thuren Fabrication:

http://www.thurenfabrication.com/

and he prefers basic smooth powders with 20% gloss. If it's dark (like black) he says higher gloss shows scratches and lower gloss is soft and may be scratched or polished with a fingernail. If wheeling hard, it might not matter in the long run.

With Cardinal powders, you can buy matching touchup paint for stock colors.
 
Discussion starter · #58 · (Edited)
The silver vein on all my stuff is from Akzo Nobel.
Sherwin Williams is more silver, but fades fast..
Rohm & Haas is about the same as Akzo in color & longevity.

My sliders are R&H and they're over 6 yrs old and still not peeling or lifting (due to media blast, zinc prime, them color coat).

IMO, the silver vein or black tex are the longest lasting, most durable.

Thank You for the comments!
Bumper was perfect at gonemoab. Never hit it once with the improved approach angle. The engine skid will need a bit of straightening though....
Rear bumper gas can carrier never hit either, though I did pull up the license plate as I had no bottom screws in it :violent1: Hit the bottom of the spare tire lightly a couple times, but the X performed flawlessly and went up everything we threw at it.
 
#59 · (Edited)
maXTERRA said:
The silver vein on all my stuff is from Akzo Nobel.
Sherwin Williams is more silver, but fades fast..
Rohm & Haas is about the same as Akzo in color & longevity.

My sliders are R&H and they're over 6 yrs old and still not peeling or lifting (due to media blast, zinc prime, them color coat).

IMO, the silver vein or black tex are the longest lasting, most durable.
Click to expand...
Have you found a need to go with two color coats or color coat + clear coat?
Also wondering if you've found a rattlecan paint for touchups to Akzo's Silver Vein?

Looks like Akzo's Silver Vein comes in two formulations. The exterior polyester has good impact resistance @160 in-lbs and nice gloss level.

http://www.interpon.com/our-coatings/powder-finder/powder-detail/?powder_code=JW16BQF

It might only come in 55 lb boxes (that's a lot of bumpers!). Good price per pound though.

http://ecommerce.powder-coatings.co....com/powdercoating/COLOR/Silver/JW16BQF-33-9765-SILVER-VEIN-7402-25KG/p/8131829

Agree on media blast & zinc primer. Not worth skipping prep steps.

Thanks for sharing your valuable info. Your bumper looks awesome.
 
#60 ·
After seeing this truck in my rearview for a day, I have to say that bumper is ridiculously badass.
 
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