[TerryD]

Had a great time out there yesterday man. Been shopping for a secondhand chainsaw this morning. Hate to hear it was the harness that's bad on your KCs.

 

[IssacHunter]

Had a great time out there yesterday man. Been shopping for a secondhand chainsaw this morning. Hate to hear it was the harness that's bad on your KCs.

We can make a habit of monthly road trips :grin:

As for the harness yeah it's abit sad how KC's harness didn't last that long but they may make it right. If not I can get another deutsch connector and solder it in and it "should" work.

 

[TerryD]

If my schedule allows, I'd be up for it!

 

[eighty]

We can make a habit of monthly road trips :grin:



As for the harness yeah it's abit sad how KC's harness didn't last that long but they may make it right. If not I can get another deutsch connector and solder it in and it "should" work.

Which kc lights do you have?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[IssacHunter]

Which kc lights do you have?


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The 6" Daylighter LED versions.

 

[IssacHunter]

Put on yellow Lamin-X Fog covers to actually turn my fogs into fogs lol. Also cut and soldered on a new connector for the light on the harness. KC wanted me to send the light back for inspection but I wanted to try this first. I ran the lights for over an hr and no abnormal heat from the wire.

 

[PhullD]

Just so you know, the whole yellow lights being better in the fog thing is a myth. You can google it if you want. Some people argue the yellow light is easier on the eyes, but most of that is personal preference. The only thing that really matters is the beam is lower.

 

[IssacHunter]

Just so you know, the whole yellow lights being better in the fog thing is a myth. You can google it if you want. Some people argue the yellow light is easier on the eyes, but most of that is personal preference. The only thing that really matters is the beam is lower.

It probably is but honestly in rain and snow the yellow is much less fatiguing on my eyes (so I guess that's the preference for me ). When I HID retrofit the headlights I'm gonna try and find me some bulbs around the 4300k mark for that reason too.

 

[PhullD]

I should probably add my fogs are also laminX'd lol!

 

[TerryD]

Hey man, what in bumper fog lights do you have? I'm thinking about adding a set when I put the new bumper on.

 

[IssacHunter]

Hey man, what in bumper fog lights do you have? I'm thinking about adding a set when I put the new bumper on.

Diode Dynamics https://www.diodedynamics.com/luxeon-led-fog-lamps-type-a.html. They are pretty nice and bright. If you want to wait some though DD does holiday sales it seems pretty frequently. I got mine during the 4th sale for $120.

TheRetroFitSource also has their own version and are gonna be releasing a variant of it with yellow LED's soon.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/n...imoto-xb-led.html?carDisplay=2013+Nissan+Xterra&preselect=&preselect_restrict=1

Luck buddy. I don't think you could go wrong with either :wink:

 

[IssacHunter]

I made a quick mockup of what my drawers are gonna be like in Sketchup (not a fan of it's not as good as AutoCad programs I've used). I found a free model of the ARB 37qt but I plan on a 50qt which is 3" taller so I modeled around that. The width of the ARB cubby takes into account the dimensions of the ARB slide as well. I'll have 2 deep drawers on the left and the top will extend to the interior plastic so I can throw some stuff up there with some stud tracks. The entire thing will be secured to the cargo u-channels with l-brackets and from my measurements if you remove the plastic "shell" of the storage basin when you have a seat down you can have access to it under the drawers.

It will be made from 1/2" plywood. I'm thinking of painting it with a hammered black finish and gluing a rubber mat on the top.

 

[TerryD]

I made a quick mockup of what my drawers are gonna be like in Sketchup (not a fan of it's not as good as AutoCad programs I've used). I found a free model of the ARB 37qt but I plan on a 50qt which is 3" taller so I modeled around that. The width of the ARB cubby takes into account the dimensions of the ARB slide as well. I'll have 2 deep drawers on the left and the top will extend to the interior plastic so I can throw some stuff up there with some stud tracks. The entire thing will be secured to the cargo u-channels with l-brackets and from my measurements if you remove the plastic "shell" of the storage basin when you have a seat down you can have access to it under the drawers.

It will be made from 1/2" plywood. I'm thinking of painting it with a hammered black finish and gluing a rubber mat on the top.

That's almost exactly what I've been wanting to do. However, I'll have to wait till I get regeared and have a trailer since that eats up so much of the storage back there, it would only be good for day trips after that for us.

 

[IssacHunter]

That's almost exactly what I've been wanting to do. However, I'll have to wait till I get regeared and have a trailer since that eats up so much of the storage back there, it would only be good for day trips after that for us.

I think for me it’s getting rid of all that clutter. I carry a decent amount of stuff (not like you though lol) but it’s on top of everywhere and I have to move things around to get to it. I should be able to condense all my cooking/cleaning stuff into one drawer and carry the propane stove in one of the side cubby’s. Most of my vehicle tools/items such as tire repair and compressor and some fluids can go in the other. I’m also considering getting the FR folding chair to save space too.

 

[Nic]

Did you make your low profile roof rack or did you buy it? If the latter, care to share your source?
Thanks,
Nic

 

[IssacHunter]

Going over what my future plans are for the X. I suppose how she sits now is considered stage 1.

Stage 2:
AFE Stainless steel catback tucked up high exhaust system.
New-ish low mileage OEM primary cats
Raybestos EHT brake pads all around
Raybestos slotted rotors
Raybestos front passenger caliper and rear driver caliper
Nisstec Titan length SS brake lines
Timbren Active Offroad Rear bumpstops

Stage 3:
Fridge and DIY Cargo Drawers
Northstar 27F battery (I measured it out and it is the same HxW as the 24F but only 1.6" longer but A LOT more power. +22AH and 75mins more reserve)
Rugged Rocks 270A alternator with better gauge wires and military terminals.
Noco Onboard battery charger so I can plug up the X when it sits for a few days without worrying about the fridge. Plug outlet will be behind my bumper.

Stage 4:
iKamper2X RTT OR Roofnest Sparrow
Frontrunner Roofrack (Possibly. Not sure yet.)
OverlandPro 270° Awning.

Stage 5:
Installed m205 diff with OEM half shafts (or at least remanufactored)
Radflo 2.5 w/ 600lb springs and 1"spacer
Alcan 3.5" lift w/ 700lb over stock
Bacher Metal Works extended shackles PC'ed red
Bilstein 5160RR rear shocks
PRG 3° steel shim (might need a 4°)
PRG flip kit (since I will need to replace the ubolts anyway and PRG's is better than Nisstecs)

Stage 6:
4.10 gears
Level 8 MK6 Gunmetal wheels x 5 (possibly x6 if one will fit behind the Maxterra bumper)
295/75/16 BFG KO2's
Airflow Snorkel

Wildcard Stage: - whenever I get a chance to use an enclosed garage for a few days.
Raptor line the entire X in tan w/ handles in black
Raptor line the front bumper and sliders in black

After that I think that would be all I'd do to the X and what a costly list that is :frown: I have no plans for 35" tires or body lifts at the moment.

 

[IssacHunter]

Did you make your low profile roof rack or did you buy it? If the latter, care to share your source?
Thanks,
Nic

Kinda both. I bought the rack and modified it to work. @TerryD and I both run it.

Here's the how-to.
https://www.thenewx.org/forum/23-exterior/236106-cheap-$100-aluminum-roof-rack.html

Luck.

 

[PhullD]

Looking at your list, are you sure you want slotted rotors? Won't mud and debris get in there when you go offroad?

Also just curious why the 1" spacer with the Titan swap length radflos? I only ask because I'm wondering if you have any information I'm not aware of on the subject. I was looking into getting a spacer for mine and some people seem to think that they are already as long as possible (because Greg at PRG said coil bucket contact will occur). Others say a 1/4" spacer can still go in (for 0.5" of lift). The ride quality loss between 2.5" and 3" of lift is noticeable so I was hoping to lower the springs back to 2.5".

 

[IssacHunter]

Looking at your list, are you sure you want slotted rotors? Won't mud and debris get in there when you go offroad?

Also just curious why the 1" spacer with the Titan swap length radflos? I only ask because I'm wondering if you have any information I'm not aware of on the subject. I was looking into getting a spacer for mine and some people seem to think that they are already as long as possible (because Greg at PRG said coil bucket contact will occur). Others say a 1/4" spacer can still go in (for 0.5" of lift). The ride quality loss between 2.5" and 3" of lift is noticeable so I was hoping to lower the springs back to 2.5".

Possibly on the rotors although some run them I haven't seen too many complaints on just slotted but I won't get drilled for sure. I'm not ruling out the plain face R. advanced though.

I've heard that on the TS rads too but seem to recall some members running the 0.5/1 ones but I may have remembered it wrong. I'm hoping to be at around 3" of total lift with a little rake (I'm thinking 3" front and 3.5" back would be optimal). I won't rule out Alcan 3" springs but seeing how much they have settled from some members even to the point of them getting a second set I figured the 3.5 would settle to around 3" when all is said and done. The thicker shims would reduce it some as well.

I'm sure the ride quality would be better than my current setup though which is quite stiff even fully weighted down. I have 650lb springs on Mk84 in the front which may seem stiffer than comparable Rad 2.0's since it's a 3"diameter spring vs a 2.5" and I've seen a few members state that the 600lb 2.5" rads (which are also a 3" diameter spring. Same one too I think for the non-TS version) feel like 650lb rad 2.0's too. My OME HD leaf pack is also quite stiff but while it rides fine unloaded but when I put my 2 jerry cans on and load down the back for camping I hit the bump stops quite a lot to the point where on my recent trip with @TerryD I ended up putting my Hellwig Helper springs on to help.

It's a big wip though > and the TS isn't high on the list for need soon mods. Technically atm I can go Pathfinder swap since I have the m205 and halfshafts but not all the needed bolts :surprise: I'm gonna focus on making camping more enjoyable first before increasing it's offroad capabilities further (which are already pretty damn good :grin: ) so parts of that may change later. I keep getting influenced by Derek, Josh and Rob that my wallet can't keep up :| lol

 

[ChrisHaynesUSA]