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** The Dumb Question Thread **

252K views 1.7K replies 177 participants last post by  eighty  
Anyone here wanna answer to me WHY in any right mind would I wanna trade in my mint ‘12 Pro4X 6 man with 90k (fully paid off!!!) back to the dealership??? I just got the mailer today for the local Nissan dealership I took her into for bodywork asking for me to trade her in. Trade in to what???? New Rogue??[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]. Frontier??? If I didn’t truck camp and had a use for a truck bed (I don’t). Already jumped down your rabbit hole people. Don’t need to start another one.
Those always make me laugh. "Trade in now and you could get an ABOVE MARKET TRADE-IN value of $9,568!" That would be about a 25% return on my investment lol
 
Weren’t you also essentially using your shocks at your limiting straps for awhile?
I mean that's just how shocks without limit straps work... usually the shock is what will reach maximum extension first. Not a problem if you don't flex out a lot, but if you spend a lot of time off-road they are gonna get beat up.
 
Ok so price wise radflos are not that much more than the bills. How about performance and longevity? Watching @AlbatrossCafe thread he seems to be rebuilding them a lot.


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Rebuild definitely depends on how you drive/use your rig. Mine does have a higher dirt-to-street ratio than average. I have never owned anything else so I have nothing to compare it to. My rebuild at 14k and at 12k seems too soon, but I have no frame of reference.
 
Dumb question... I am trying to replace all 4 pads/rotors.

On RockAuto, do I need to order quantity 2 of brake pads for front & rear (4 total) or does quantity 1 include 2 sets of pads?
 

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Is there really no way to disable the annoying auto-locking of the doors and back?

Don't know how many times I unlocked from inside the house and grabbed a bunch of stuff with both hands got outside and as I walked towards the vehicle I hear the lock engages.

Or going to the supermarket down the street and when I arrive and circling the parking lot as soon as I pull into a spot the lock engages.

On the flip side I haven't had one single instance of me saying "I am glad the doors are locked automatically".

I looked extensively for this. I also hate it. You can turn off the auto-lock when driving feature but not the auto-lock from the fob feature. It MAY be possible with a reprogram of BCM but no one has done it it seems.

https://www.thenewx.org/forum/9-general-xterra/225337-**-dumb-question-thread-**-106.html
 
I absolutely love the Xterra but having come from a base model 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee (heavily modified but base model) there are a few features I'm surprised the 2015 Xterra lacks that my 2005 Jeep had. Is it possible I'm overlooking some of these things and these were once options mine didn't come from the factory with?
Haha wow I didn't realize how "lacking" the Xterra was until you put out what I thought was a pretty basic/standard list. That being said, hopefully you'll grow to like it. I enjoy having the "absolute basics" and nothing else.
 
Who first discovered the Titan swap?
I think it was Isaac Newton...? It was in his research of "Theory of OEM Extended Travel"
 
I have 1" BL but 0" BL rock sliders. I want to move them up an inch to get that clearance. I also want to weld them to the frame.

Is it as simple as cutting off the sliders and welding them back onto the same brackets and then welding those on the frame rail? Do I need different brackets? Are the sliders never gonna be as strong as they were originally if I cut them off the brackets and reattach them?


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We may have reached peak dumb, @AlbatrossCafe, nobody answered our questions.
Called SPC. Castle nut is m14x1.5. I ordered off Fleabay for $5. I answered my own question. I'm smart!


Trying to learn how suspension works.

Here's a dude installing an adjustable rear shackle. He's forcing/compressing the rear leaf pack. Is that effectively what "preload" is? If he flattens it too much, the leafs won't have any more compression and won't absorb road imperfections any more?
Preload is easier to explain with coilovers. In the below pic, my spring perch (which are the two adjustable collars holding the bottom of the spring) is set at a certain height. If I wanted to "increase the preload", I would twist those collars so that they moved higher. This would compress the spring. As a spring is compressed, more weight is required to have it compress further. Pre-compressing the spring is what is known as preload.

There a few reasons to doing this. Mostly, it is about getting lift height. People will crank up their springs so that the truck doesn't make them sag as much at rest and ultimately it makes them taller.

There are a couple of downsides to this. #1 you touched on kind of... more preload means stiffer spring. A stiffer spring with no weight change in the truck will mean harsher ride. #2 is that if I crank my spring up to make the truck taller, the shock is going to be more extended while at my now-normal ride height. With a more extended shock, I'm going to have less droop travel. So going in a pothole might be more harsh as well because the shock might top out before it reaches the bottom of the pothole.

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I lost one castle nut from my Titan SPC UCAs. Anyone know where I can find a replacement? I am having no luck looking for parts online. Figured I would ask before I call SPC tomorrow.

Is this something I could find at a local hardware store? I don't recall seeing castle nuts or not.


PFA:

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I'll never run chains again on the front of a SUV. It makes just holding the steering wheel miserable bucking all over the place. Plus, the X is supposed to have Class S chains (Double check I've got that letter right) that don't stick out as far as normal chains and only go on the back for clearance reasons. No idea if your highly modified X has more/less clearance in the front than a stock X.
You are right about class S. My winter tires are 33s but my fenders are trimmed in front for 35s, so I may actually more clearance up front than in the rear now. But that is good to know about the steering being choppy.

There are 3 levels of traction required for mountain passes here depending on conditions - 2WD; 4WD or AWD; and then 4WD or AWD with chains. That 3rd one is quite rare (and annoying), but I don't wanna choose between getting stuck on the other side of the mountains or risking a $$$ ticket.

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If you have 4WD but only 1 pair of chains, do you put them on the front or back?

Front: Better braking, helps with steering, but rear may fishtail
Rear: More predictable, but most braking happens in the front and steering may suffer

Anyone with experience in either setup have a preference?
 
Would you ever trust a quickie lube place to do an oil change on your X?
Depends what you consider a "quickie lube place". There are some real shady "econolube" places promising things like "$30 oil changes in 10 min or less!" that I will stay far away from.

But some of those shops actually invest in their employees and are safe to visit. I go to my local "Valvoline" quick change place. For me, the mess and the the time it takes to dispose of the oil is not worth saving the extra $20 or so that I get doing it myself.
 
I believe ChrisHaynesUSA and others are running LT315/75R/16 on stock rims = which is 35 inches. Check out his build thread....
I do the same. Tire shop told me they had "difficulty mounting that 315mm width tire on a 7 inch rim" but did it anyway. They just had never done it before.

No problems so far.
 
Just got a replacement winch remote to replace mine which was stolen. Apparently it has a magnet on the front. What is this supposed to be used for?

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I've been calling around getting some quotes on tires. On TireBuyer.com I can get a set of 5 for about $1300 (after tax), and then they guarantee a mount/balance cost of $85 if I ship to an installer. So about $1400.

Meanwhile, I call the local Les Schwab for the same 5 tires and they quote me a total installed price of ~$2200.

WTF? Where does this $800 difference come from?
 
I have both a Haynes and a Chilton's manual. They are not great, but they are okay and have served me well enough for the going on 10 years that I've owned my X.
Why are they not great? Do they straight-up just have false information or something?
 
I had about 5 gallons of water in my trunk a few days ago. Well, it leaked and I don't know where it went.

You can see it pooled up where this trunk cover latches. Is there anything under this area I need to be concerned about? I soaked up whatever visible water I could find already.

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Personally, I think the fan on "speed 1" is less obtrusive than the fan in the "Off" position. With the fan off, it seems to on the face level vents. When I turn the fan to lowest speed and the coldest temp (like hexterra said), I can actually point it at my feet only so that I don't notice it. Don't think you can completely turn it off.

I almost never use the climate control in any car for some reason.
 
I'm thinking about ordering a replacement rear door on my passenger side instead of paying $2k to get my dents fixed. I have two questions:


  1. Is the interior door trim between the Leather PRO-4x trim (mine) and say a non-leather lower-level trim the same?
  2. If they are not the same, can I simply swap my interior door trim onto the new door?