haha no, you cannot just mount coilovers in where the stock rear shocks are.
The rear shocks are much longer, they sit at an angle. The top mounts for the shocks are just some little bolts that will not hold a coilover. Also, those bolts are welded into the frame, there is no room to fit a coilover there and the geometry of it wouldn't work.

I believe that some have run coilovers in the back but it's a completely custom job. Running coilovers back there replaces your leaf springs and rear shocks completely. The best way to do it would be making custom shock hoops. There is a lot that would go into running coilovers in the back. You are completely changing the entire suspension, it's not just a bolt on mod.

 

I just realized why that would not work without some serious custom fabrication. Thanks for the polite response killswitch. I'm always thinking but not clearly at first sometimes. Would be cool and something I may consider once my warranty runs out.
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they would not even work with custom fabrication on our setup. they are too short and their spring rate isnt right. not to mention using those mounting points would be a pita in the back.
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I was actually thinking of still running leafs. Probably set the leafs up for 5-600# since I tow alot and often have 300# of bulldogs back there, sometimes at the same time. Do about 100-150# less on c.o. springs. That way the shocks still work but they'd kind of like backup's/helpers and keep the leafs fresh? Feel free to explain why it won't work, I'm new to this much customizing and have pretty thick skin as well.
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I've actually thought about this before for a stock Xterra to eliminate the rear suspension issues for those that don't want a lift. Its probably not the most cost effective solution, but a custom set of coil overs would work.

 

So would stock height aftermarket leaf packs. Plus it's cheaper and easier

 

Agree with killswitch on this. Custom packs or get the stock ones researched with added leads for capacity increase.

 

Didn't Oregonx ? Convert to rear coilovers, not stock front ones
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he converted to coils, not coilovers, and i'm sure that is a very pricey upgrade since it is all custom. definitely not short of a couple g's if i had to guess.

 

I wish Nissan would have spent a few extra bucks on a 5 link like I had on my Rubicon (and you have on yours). I can honestly say that I would have spent another G on my Xterra if it had a 5 link with rear coils.

 

if you spend the money to set the x up to use the oem front coilovers with leafs (instead of doing it the right way and using aftermarket coilovers with the correct valving, length, springrate, and mounting points) then you definitley have way too much money to throw in the trash...cause that setup, my friend not only doesnt make sense, but it would blow to drive both on the trail and on the road. there is absolutley no reason to use coilovers and leaf springs together...unless you want something that rides worse than a dump truck.
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I think dump trucks would ride better. It would cost a lot more to run factory coilovers with stock leafs then it would to run custom coilovers and no leafs
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You can run coilovers in the rear with 4 link right?
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yep, check out Paintsnows truck to see that, the people who did his did a real nice setup of it. (it's custom Solid axle work, but the principle should be similar).

 

I could be wrong here, but aren't there downsides to towing with coils vs leaf packs? That and cost were probably the reasons, although with the jeep engine you're not towing anything anyway haha
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Believe it or not, mine towed great. I needed the 4.10 gears and the 6 speed, and it was pretty hard on it, but it was remarkably stable. A 3.6l with decent gearing would do fine.

You are right in theory that leafs are better than coils. However, a properly set up 5 link, like in the JK and the Ram 1500s does fine. My WJ, on the other hand, had a weird modified 3 link set up and it SUCKED for towing till I put an Addco rear sway on it. That helped dramatically with towing and handling, but it made it ride stiffer. Surprisingly, it didn't make a noticeable difference in rear flex.

I've wondered before if you put a performance rear sway bar on the Xterra if if would cut down on the rear suspension bottoming out. I'm not an engineer, but with how much it stiffened up the rear suspension on my WJ you'd think it would help and definitely make it handle better.

 

Yeah, no money to burn. I snorted all my childhood acting career money up my shnozz a long time ago... J/K

I do have another question regarding front suspension. Looks like I have the radflo "piggy backs" from PRG. Radflo's site has only one with 6.5" of travel. I'm unhappy with ride with 700# springs. Could I get the short 2.5's with 8" of travel, use 600-650# springs and keep them cranked less for a better ride and maybe a slight lift gain? I'm not using aftermarket shackles but if I did, it would be easy to adjust the rear to keep it leveled.

I got the advanced kit from him so have the aftermarket UCA's. I'd also get shims with added lift in the rear. Could even put stock +5 leaf back in in addition to AAL if it got too soft for towing. I read here somebody did that and was happy with the ride. I've asked him twice and when he get's back to me he's great. No answer for a week but I'll try again also. Thanks again.

 

On my ranger I had Monroe sensatrac load adjusting shocks(coilover) n they were great. Monroe doesn't have them for the xterra........yet I emailed them bout it maybe I'll get a custom set. The ranger n xterra rear shocks mount the same way angles n stagger(one front one back):drink:

 

Reese after my recent coil over research it wouldn't actually be that hard to do. But you'd get rid of the leafs and put in traction bars say from prg. Then mount coilovers close to where the leads were using dual coils

 

I dont think that would work, you would need to 3 or 4 link the rear. Just putting two "traction" bars and coilovers would still allow the axle to rotate on its own axis

 

www.f-o-a.com

 

Those dudes ****ed us around on coil-overs once before
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Leaf springs are tried and true. If they aren't broken, leave them be.

 

Ladder bars is exactly what I was thinking. Of course a 4 link would be ideal for off-road only rig but ladder bar would be best for a weekend warrior and moderate towing. Clearly you won't be getting 18in of travel but 10 or 12 could be doable