Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

maXTERRA's Build Thread - Latest Updates May 2016

80K views 91 replies 40 participants last post by  curtism  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Intro Comments: A GREAT BIG THANKS to TheNewX (Jason & admins) for running such a great and informative site, and to all of you members who have contributed such great and useful knowledge that has inspired and directed me in the building of my X.:notworthy:

Absolutely, there is no way I'd be anywhere even close to where I'm at without the influence of this site. I've been into 4x4's a lot in the past, but getting my X and finding this place has given me a whole new appreciation for this hobby and passion all over again.
Having the time of my life!!!!!!!!:geek:: (y)

- Dave

Username: maXTERRA

Make:
Nissan
Year: 2006
Model:❌terra
Trim: S Titan-Swapped
Color: Night Armor

MODS

Armor:

I try to build all my accessories...
# maXTERRA sliders
# maXTERRA Custom tube-prerun styled front bumper with Milemarker winch
# maXTERRA Custom rear bumper with flush hitch receiver. Hidden safety chain mounts. # Recovery Points. CB antenna mount. Hi-lift mount.
# Custom drop-in cargo rack on roof rack

Suspension:
# 2.0" Radflo Coilovers (front)
# PRG UCA's
# Deaver AAL’s (rear)
# Bilstien 5125 Shocks (rear)
# Removed Rear Swaybar
# Skid plated u-bolt plates

Tires & Wheels:
# Wild Country XTX 285/75R16 Tires
# Stock wheels
# Matching spare wheel/tire on rear bumper swing out

Recovery Gear:
# MileMarker 9.5 Winch (w/ Viking Blue Synthetic Rope, MileMarker billet Hawse Fairlead (polished) and self closing hook)
# 2.5"x30' Recovery strap
# 48" Hi-Lift (All Cast)
# 4-ton bottle jack
# 3/4" & 5/8” Shackles
# Air compressor (compliments of a drawing here on the newX) and Tire Plug Kit
# Tool Kit
# Jumper cables

Electrical / Electronics:
# Cobra 75 WX ST CB w/ 4' Firestik
# Hella 700FF Driving Lights (mounted to bumper)
# 4” driving lights recessed in front bumper
# Carling Technologies Blue lighted rocker switches for lighting control

Interior:
# Nissan Seat Covers
# Nissan pet divider Net

Survival Gear:
#Jetboil Stove & extra fuel canisters. Mountain house rations, lifeboat rations, energy bars.
#2-man tent
#backpacker mattress & pillow, 20 deg sleeping bag
#Candle lanterns, lightsticks, LED flashlights, lots of extra batteries. LED headlamp.
# Katadyn water purification, iodine tablets.
# First aid kits.
# 2 gal collapsable bucket.
# rope & parachute cord.
# multitool
# Extra clothes & layers
# SPOT satellite tracker unit

Future Mods to-do list:
# Expedition roof rack and lighting.
# Fabricate full skid plates underneath.
# Full titan suspension & diff swap, lockers & gearing
# 35’s (if gearing/lockers ever come available)
# Stereo system upgrade
# Scangauge
# Fabricate a New design rear bumper with armored corners & integral steps.
# Gas & water cans storage.
# More winch, hi-Lift and recovery accessories.
# Extra battery in rear expanded storage compartment with battery isolator.
# ARB fridge

PHOTOS

Sliders fabrication


Sliders mounting


Checking the fit


Sliders installed


Rear bumper fabrication




Rear bumper done


PRG suspension install


New tires (285 XTX’s) Looks SO much better!


My drop in roof rack


Starting a new front bumper






Filler plates finally done


Bumper back from the powder coater
 
#2 ·
Installing the winch


Underneath view while fabricating the rad skid














Lighting control panel installed




Installing the carling lighted rockers, relocating the VDC switch.


 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
Titan swap (long overdue) finally done!

Did the swap during a week off from work (as not to affect the bumper biz schedule) a couple of weeks ago

Finally had this last sunday to finish up all the things I couldn't get to a couple of weeks ago.

Here's the progress of the initial swap:

Off comes all the PRG advanced coilover kit components after 5 yrs or so of hard use. Everything pretty well worn out.



Man the frame looks fugly! Went up to O'reilly's and got a 3" cup brush for the die grinder and went to town once everything was off and cleaned it down to metal. Coat of primer & black and we're SO much better! M205 w/ ARB locker installed, LCS, tie rods. Damn if both old rear LCA bolts weren't seized and I had to sawzall them both off!!!



One side all complete and have installed radflo hydraulic bumpstops and poly-performance 14" limit straps (ended up having to double the limit straps as believe it or not, the 7k rating still stretched too far). Everything cleaned up and re-painted along the way. Brake lines installed and anchored into the back of the spindle to keep everything away from the tires, even the remote rez radflos had to be tucked in tight.



In the back, the m226 had some rework as well. New dropped and gusseted HD lower shock mounts so I could get all the travel out of the Fox 26" shocks for max travel & articulation. Raised up all the e-brake and brake line mounts & the abs sensor mounts for full articulation w/o pulling on anything. As always, had to add dimple dies to everything that I could. Timbren bumpstops up top for a cush stop at full compression. PRG U-bolt flip kit & diff cover too.



Testing the flex of the alcan 3" 450+ springs, shock travel & droop, and making sure everything extended or compressed without problems.



The Alcans are flexible, Very flexible!



Had it up to the point of just balancing on two tires. Everything looking good except for some future front fender trimming soon.





Still gotta install the viair ultra OBA setup so I can hook up the front locker. Rear locker now working now. At least off-road worthy again.

Just love the way it looks and rides! Can blast about any dip or curb at high speed and it just soaks it all up!!!!! :tunes:












So, List of Things on This Round of Changes:
New M205, with ARB air locker installed
Titan CV's
Moog LCA's
Moog inner & outer tie rods
Rough Country UCA"s
Radflo 2.5 w/remote rez coilovers
Radflo 2"x2" hyd bumpstops
Poly Performance adjustable bumpstop cans
Poly Performance 14" limit straps with upper mount kit
PRG stainless brake lines
PRG u-bolt flip kit
PRG cam bolt kit
Fox 2"x26" remote rez shock from Greg @ prg
Timbren rear bump stops
M226 out of a 2012 w 11k mi.
2" wheel spacers in rear
Alcan 3" rear springs w/450# cap.
PRG rear shackles
Rear driveline modified by Seagull Diesel w/parts from Tom Woods
E-locker harness for m226 locker switching


Next Up:
4:56 gears
2" BL
35" tires
Finish OBA install
2nd battery in rear
LED perimeter lighting on new roof rack (in works)

Q? Why did I wait so long to do the best mod evah??:dontknow:
 
#9 ·
Thanks all very much.
Been waiting a long time to be at this point.

Really liking my X again.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#11 ·
Nice work, I can definitely empathize on the waiting to get it done ... I've been accumulating my parts for far too long, myself. Can you comment on the choice of Rough Country UCAs over the other, more popular, options (like PRG)?
 
#13 ·
I ran the PRG uca's for 5 yrs previous with the advanced coil over kit. They were great, but we're getting slop in the exposed uniballs and required constant lube to keep from squeaking/creaking (these were some early models and I think they've made improvements over mine). Road salt is harsh on them! Also, not slamming the old kit in any way. I drove the Sh!# outta it. Everything was needing refreshed/rebuilt so either spend money on that, or spend more and go to the next level. (Quite a bit more..)

Justin from Fat Bobs told me about these. OEM style pivot bushings and sealed & replaceable moog ball joint sold me.
They have great travel as at full droop w/o the limit straps set, they're just a hair from hitting the coil bucket.

Thought I'd give them a try this time and see how the maintenance/wear compares.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#14 ·
Makes sense ... the long term wear & maintenance on the typical exposed heim inner joint and uniball outer have always been a bit of a turn-off for me. I had forgotten about the RC arms, so thanks for reminding me! I think they could be a great option, and it sounds like the outer ball-joints don't lose you any articulation over a uniball outer (at least for the way you have yours set-up); so that's a bonus!
 
#16 ·
Not yet, in 3 or so yrs it's been on there.
At least it's there, as required (more or less) :iconbiggrin:

Everything is subject to interpretation?
 
#23 ·
Pretty soon. Really need to do some fender trimming still and OBA install, air locker hook up.
 
#27 ·
I definitely like!
Took it out over the weekend and ran it hard.
Very impressed at the ride quality. Did not experience one hard bottom-out at all.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#31 ·
Where did you set your limit straps to? Why not just let the coilover's extension limit down travel??
The UCA's (primarily pass side) are hitting the coil bucket at full droop and I'm thinking the upper ball joint is getting close to bind at droop.
Also, the rod piston is what's stopping your down travel, so add up the coilover spring tension, suspension and tire wheel weight (plus inertia of all that weight) becoming quickly unloaded and dropping, lots of stress on the coilover innards trying to instantly stop that load. The straps should cushion the instantly unloaded "full droop" too.
Probably overkill on my part, but that's what I wanted to do.

Also to note, I added a second limit strap like Chris H's setup was, as I couldn't believe how much the 8k load limit straps stretched while trying to adjust travel limit (now I see why a lot of them use triple straps..) Then I also had to add a spring to pull the straps inboard on compression, as the race trucks do to keep the strap from hitting the inside of the tire. If I had smooth sidewalls, maybe not so much an issue, but the wranglers definitely grabbed it.

To be vague, how much work was it to install the bump stop cans? More to the point what would be a reasonable price to pay to have them installed?
Took me a while to figure out the exact location for the cans. Found that I needed to place them so the bumpstop could be removed from the top instead of having to disassemble suspension to take them out the bottom. Placed the stop up high in the can mount and adjusted until it cleared brake lines and other obstructions. Then tacked into place. It's welded to the rear of the coil bucket, with about 3/8" clearance out from the frame, and then a gusset plate welded to the rearward side to the frame. Also had to cut about a 1/2" off the bottom of the can so it didn't hit the LCA.

Also welded a 1/4" plate on top of the LCA for the bumpstop to impact at compression, as I doubt the thin LCA steel would have held up.

Gotta say, these bumpstops seem like they work awesome! Bounced over some stuff extremely hard and front end airborn, and landing was smooth! Never did hit & bottom out like before. :rockin:

As for price to install, If I was doing it, guessing around $100.

Radflo bumpstops, 2" bore x 2" travel with bump cans from poly performance. 14" Limit straps & adjsutable hardware also from poly performance

Here's the best pic I can find right now. You can also see the small spring in the middle of the strap tied forward to the lca.