Had a bit of interest in this so I figured I'd just make a separate thread for this.
There's a few thread already on this but those use legitimate catch cans :grin: I opted to use an air/water separator instead of an actual catch can because its cheaper than the real thing and parts and shipping are expensive in Canada lol.
I also thought about getting a cheap one off ebay but those are usually just empty aluminum cylinders. There isn't any baffling to condense oil vapors or steam in the bottom of the can. Sure, you can add some yourself pretty easily but I went with this route since these separators are already baffled and filtered.
Here's the shopping list:
- A 3/8 inline air/water separator. The one in my X is from Home Depot and I have one from Lowe's in my Pathfinder
- 3/8" NPT 3/8" barbed fittings (x2). I decided to use 90 degree fittings so reduce the overall space the can uses
- Teflon tape for the threads
- 3/8" fuel hose. Length will vary on where you decide to mount the can
- Hose clamps
- A mount for the can. Get creative with this. I repurposed a bracket I found in my garage. You could use metal strapping for plumbing lines or zip ties
- (Optional) 3/8" hose connectors/splices
Start by prepping the separator. Get your fittings on and figure out where you want to mount it.
![Image]()
I relocated mine beside the brake booster. It was previously mounted on the relay/fuse box lid. Again, mount it where you can easily access it to empty it. I know some others have mounted theirs near the air box or zip tied to the main wiring bundle on the firewall. Your choice.
![Image]()
Note that these separators have a valve on the bottom. They eventually start to leak so you can either plug it up with some JB weld or take it out completely and replace it with a nut, bolt, and rubber washer.
![Image]()
Locate the PCV hose that goes back into the intake and pull it off the nipple. You could pull this hose at the other end at the back of the engine and connect your new hose directly from the PCV valve or do what I did and just add a connector. The connector just allows me to easily return back to a stock setup if I ever wanted to.
![Image]()
Run this line from the PCV valve to the IN port of the separator and run the other line from the OUT port back to the intake nipple and clamp the hoses in place. The nice thing about these water separators is that they show direction of flow and they're stamped IN and OUT.
![Image]()
Secure all the new hose and that's it!
As a side note: they typically have this size and a smaller 1/4" fitting size of water separators. I went with this size so I wouldn't need to empty it as often. Having the bigger can is also nicer in the winter since you'll notice that you'll get a lot of water collecting in the can. Otherwise, just bypass the can completely and return to stock if you don't feel like emptying it during the winter.
Also: If you're feeling ambitious, check out the post from @29erClan (post 17) for his plans on a custom aluminum mount.
There's a few thread already on this but those use legitimate catch cans :grin: I opted to use an air/water separator instead of an actual catch can because its cheaper than the real thing and parts and shipping are expensive in Canada lol.
I also thought about getting a cheap one off ebay but those are usually just empty aluminum cylinders. There isn't any baffling to condense oil vapors or steam in the bottom of the can. Sure, you can add some yourself pretty easily but I went with this route since these separators are already baffled and filtered.
Here's the shopping list:
- A 3/8 inline air/water separator. The one in my X is from Home Depot and I have one from Lowe's in my Pathfinder
- 3/8" NPT 3/8" barbed fittings (x2). I decided to use 90 degree fittings so reduce the overall space the can uses
- Teflon tape for the threads
- 3/8" fuel hose. Length will vary on where you decide to mount the can
- Hose clamps
- A mount for the can. Get creative with this. I repurposed a bracket I found in my garage. You could use metal strapping for plumbing lines or zip ties
- (Optional) 3/8" hose connectors/splices
Start by prepping the separator. Get your fittings on and figure out where you want to mount it.
I relocated mine beside the brake booster. It was previously mounted on the relay/fuse box lid. Again, mount it where you can easily access it to empty it. I know some others have mounted theirs near the air box or zip tied to the main wiring bundle on the firewall. Your choice.
Note that these separators have a valve on the bottom. They eventually start to leak so you can either plug it up with some JB weld or take it out completely and replace it with a nut, bolt, and rubber washer.
Locate the PCV hose that goes back into the intake and pull it off the nipple. You could pull this hose at the other end at the back of the engine and connect your new hose directly from the PCV valve or do what I did and just add a connector. The connector just allows me to easily return back to a stock setup if I ever wanted to.
Run this line from the PCV valve to the IN port of the separator and run the other line from the OUT port back to the intake nipple and clamp the hoses in place. The nice thing about these water separators is that they show direction of flow and they're stamped IN and OUT.
Secure all the new hose and that's it!
As a side note: they typically have this size and a smaller 1/4" fitting size of water separators. I went with this size so I wouldn't need to empty it as often. Having the bigger can is also nicer in the winter since you'll notice that you'll get a lot of water collecting in the can. Otherwise, just bypass the can completely and return to stock if you don't feel like emptying it during the winter.
Also: If you're feeling ambitious, check out the post from @29erClan (post 17) for his plans on a custom aluminum mount.
