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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Great ideas for a general guide. Thanks for the writeup and photos.
Glad you have found it helpful, Reese. The rack continues to be very useful.

I finally figured out a better way to mount my ARB awning, and it's so simple, it's no wonder it took me a while.

The ARB brackets are great, very stout and secure, but when mounting to the strut crossbars I was needing a spacer under them to raise them up a bit allowing clearance for the rear driver's side door to open up.

Finally I realized, rather than moving the bracket, why not just put some new holes in it? I drilled three 1/4" holes about 7/8" above the existing slots.



This puts the awning exactly where I want it to be, leaving enough clearance to open the door but still keeping a low profile.





 

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Very nice. The factory cross bars are terrible for hauling a canoe. They are not wide enough and sit flush with the plastic fairing, so the canoe ends up riding on the fairing instead of the front crossbar. I am about to follow your lead, but I am having trouble sourcing solid uni/super strut locally. I've only checked Lowes and Home Depot, but everything they had was slotted. Where did you source yours?
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
...I've only checked Lowes and Home Depot, but everything they had was slotted. Where did you source yours?
I lucked out and found my solid stainless strut channel at a freight damage store. If I had realized at the time how good of a deal it was, I would have bought more as I think I paid about ten bucks for it.

Since that doesn't help you at all, I would suggest looking at electrical or plumbing supply companies. You could also try ordering online from McMaster Carr:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#

I think aesthetically the black powder coated solid strut would look good. And you certainly don't have to use the solid channel, although I prefer it because when you slide the spring nuts into various configurations the springs don't pop out of the bottom of the channel.
 

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I lucked out and found my solid stainless strut channel at a freight damage store. If I had realized at the time how good of a deal it was, I would have bought more as I think I paid about ten bucks for it.

Since that doesn't help you at all, I would suggest looking at electrical or plumbing supply companies. You could also try ordering online from McMaster Carr:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#

I think aesthetically the black powder coated solid strut would look good. And you certainly don't have to use the solid channel, although I prefer it because when you slide the spring nuts into various configurations the springs don't pop out of the bottom of the channel.
Dang that's a good deal! I ended finding it last night at Grainger, but I had to order it and have it delivered to the store. I was able to get black powder coated in 5' sections. The issue with the spring nuts is exactly why I wanted the solid channel. Also, I believe it will look a bit more finished.

I really want to thank you for your continuing work. You are answering questions on a post you started...2.5 years ago? You are definitely an asset to the community.
 

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What an awesome thread! You did some excellent work man! Love it!
Looking forward to see what other genius ideas you come up with using unistrut ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I like how I can add and remove items as needed for different trips. I hadn't used this configuration before: Awning, Treds + shovel, and cargo box. It was a close fit but it worked great on last weekend's trip.

 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Hey sorry to bother you again the link takes me to the main page what size clamps are they,


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Weird, the link is working for me. It's the 2 3/8" ID, part number 3176T36.

Does this link work better?
https://www.mcmaster.com/#3176T36

The U-bolts that come with it work great when mounting the strut channel below the roof rails. If you want to mount the strut channel above the rails, then you'll need slightly shorter u-bolts. I used these (part number 3043t637):

https://www.mcmaster.com/#3043t637
 

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Weird, the link is working for me. It's the 2 3/8" ID, part number 3176T36.



Does this link work better?

https://www.mcmaster.com/#3176T36



The U-bolts that come with it work great when mounting the strut channel below the roof rails. If you want to mount the strut channel above the rails, then you'll need slightly shorter u-bolts. I used these (part number 3043t637):



https://www.mcmaster.com/#3043t637


Yep those work thank you very much I was struggling lol


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Reminds me of my rig. I bolted my ARB mounts to the underside of my Thule loadbars. I'm trying to keep those low for a Rotopax mount I'm working on. No paint was harmed in the installation of these mounts.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Reminds me of my rig. I bolted my ARB mounts to the underside of my Thule loadbars. I'm trying to keep those low for a Rotopax mount I'm working on. No paint was harmed in the installation of these mounts.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Nice, that looks solid. Post some pictures of the setup when you finish it, I'd love to see what you come up with.

If I had the slotted strut channel I could maybe mount mine like that as well, but I would have to drill some holes in mine.
 

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Hey @outback97, did you have to cushion the ubolts at all? All of the mcmaster ones, designed for 2" pipe seem to fluctuate between 2 1/2, 2 7/16 and 2 3/8. I got myself a 2 1/2 and it'll require a lot of material to prevent shifting.. how does 2 3/8 fit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Hey @outback97, did you have to cushion the ubolts at all? All of the mcmaster ones, designed for 2" pipe seem to fluctuate between 2 1/2, 2 7/16 and 2 3/8. I got myself a 2 1/2 and it'll require a lot of material to prevent shifting.. how does 2 3/8 fit?

@eighty I did have to use some thin strips of rubber from an old bike innertube. With that in place the 2 3/8" work great. Sorry that I hadn't mentioned that in the original post... I have added the following to the OP:

I did need to add just a little thickness to the rack so that the clamps were tight. Some have used a thin piece of silicone but I just cut some strips of rubber from a bike inner tube and that worked fine too.
 

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Reminds me of my rig. I bolted my ARB mounts to the underside of my Thule loadbars. I'm trying to keep those low for a Rotopax mount I'm working on. No paint was harmed in the installation of these mounts.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Your ARB setup looks like it requires more that 40" of channel to mount off away from the roof of the truck.

In your opinion do you think you could have stacked the ARB bracket and the U-bolt to fit the bracket within 40" of channel and still have work properly? Or should I get two 4' sections of channel to give me some extra room to work with? I like the idea of 10' (3 sections of 40" channel and not wasting any material)
 
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