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I have 1" BL but 0" BL rock sliders. I want to move them up an inch to get that clearance. I also want to weld them to the frame.

Is it as simple as cutting off the sliders and welding them back onto the same brackets and then welding those on the frame rail? Do I need different brackets? Are the sliders never gonna be as strong as they were originally if I cut them off the brackets and reattach them?


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When assembling coilovers with new isolators, is it normal for the shock body to appear a bit 'crooked' inside the coil? I'm assuming it will align itself once installed and under the weight of the vehicle, as the new isolator 'molds' around the coil and everything sort of 'settles in'.

I had a local 4x4 shop install springs on 6112s for me since my coil spring compressor is anemic. New top hats, new spring isolators, all new other hardware, etc. I labeled things with a Sharpie and they appear to have been assembled in the correct order, using all the washers from Bilstein. Shocks and coils were straight as an arrow - no pre-existing damage before I dropped them off with the shop.
 
When assembling coilovers with new isolators, is it normal for the shock body to appear a bit 'crooked' inside the coil? I'm assuming it will align itself once installed and under the weight of the vehicle, as the new isolator 'molds' around the coil and everything sort of 'settles in'.

I had a local 4x4 shop install springs on 6112s for me since my coil spring compressor is anemic. New top hats, new spring isolators, all new other hardware, etc. I labeled things with a Sharpie and they appear to have been assembled in the correct order, using all the washers from Bilstein. Shocks and coils were straight as an arrow - no pre-existing damage before I dropped them off with the shop.
Do you have a pic? My first thought is not really, did you use new coils though? I know companies like moog cheap out and don't level off the top of coil that goes into the top hat bushing which can make it look crooked.
 
Do you have a pic? My first thought is not really, did you use new coils though? I know companies like moog cheap out and don't level off the top of coil that goes into the top hat bushing which can make it look crooked.
Coils and shocks were brand new from Bilstein (though coils are actually re-badged Eibachs). Every part was brand new, including top hats and spring isolators.

In the photos, the shock in the bottom coilover is crooked. I can fit a finger between the coil and shock body on one side, but not the other.
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Discussion starter · #966 ·
My 4600's looked crooked after I assembled them. Don't know if it's an apples to apples comparison but it's caused me no problems.
 
I think it's probably caused by the top hat bushing or how the coils sit against them during assembly. I know the coils twist under load so it might work itself out over time. To me at least it looks more noticeable because of how fat those shock bodies are.
 
Who first discovered the Titan swap?
I think it was Isaac Newton...? It was in his research of "Theory of OEM Extended Travel"
 
My 4600's looked crooked after I assembled them. Don't know if it's an apples to apples comparison but it's caused me no problems.
I think it's probably caused by the top hat bushing or how the coils sit against them during assembly. I know the coils twist under load so it might work itself out over time. To me at least it looks more noticeable because of how fat those shock bodies are.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the input. These are a lot bigger coilovers than I'm used to working with so I'm trying to defer to more experienced folks wherever possible. The local shop and Bilstein both say the same thing, though Bilstein said to follow up with pictures of them installed so they can confirm there is no issue. I've been impressed with the local shop's response time, and Bilstein usually gets back to me within an hour or two.

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Discussion starter · #970 ·
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the input. These are a lot bigger coilovers than I'm used to working with so I'm trying to defer to more experienced folks wherever possible. The local shop and Bilstein both say the same thing, though Bilstein said to follow up with pictures of them installed so they can confirm there is no issue. I've been impressed with the local shop's response time, and Bilstein usually gets back to me within an hour or two.

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I'd forgotten why, but looking back at a picture it's easy to see why mine looked crooked.

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I'd forgotten why, but looking back at a picture it's easy to see why mine looked crooked.
Yeah I poked around on this forum and some Toyota forums for info on this and it seems really common, it's just more apparent in my case since it's a 2.65" shock in a 3" ID spring... no room for much of anything in there.

I really wish I could have compressed them myself, especially given the shop rate (which was still reasonable for the industry). No way I could get the shock into the compressed spring with the hooks in there. I hope I'm happy with the ride height after all this since they aren't very easily adjusted. I looked into getting a better compressor, but I'd rather spend the money on a less-crappy drill press at this point.

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I know what you mean but at least you recognized the problem and had them do it vs spending days fighting with it. What did they charge you for it btw? I remember the last time I had a shop do that for me was 2015 and I think it was around $60 for the pair.

@Longboarder Are those moog coils? Looks like how mine were after I installed them
 
Discussion starter · #973 ·
@Longboarder Are those moog coils? Looks like how mine were after I installed them
They weren't branded. It's what Rockauto sent me, think they were about $55 for the pair. Considering the luck I've had with Moog lately I'm hoping they're either NOS Moog or a different brand.
 
I have 1" BL but 0" BL rock sliders. I want to move them up an inch to get that clearance. I also want to weld them to the frame.

Is it as simple as cutting off the sliders and welding them back onto the same brackets and then welding those on the frame rail? Do I need different brackets? Are the sliders never gonna be as strong as they were originally if I cut them off the brackets and reattach them?


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Yes it is, if you cut the slider off where it connects to the mounting bracket and grind it all down, there should be plenty of room to re weld it 1" higher. The sliders should be just as strong as long as you have a competent welder doing the work!

You don't necessary need to weld the sliders to the frame, you could technically bolt them back up.
 
They weren't branded. It's what Rockauto sent me, think they were about $55 for the pair. Considering the luck I've had with Moog lately I'm hoping they're either NOS Moog or a different brand.

I just found out last night that the moog lca's I installed last spring are from their cheapo made-in-china "R" series so I'm pretty sure that's where I'm getting my current steering wobblyness from. I'm checking the balljoints this weekend but I'm not optimistic. Rockauto got me good on that one, they weren't cheap either.
 
Anybody have any luck permanently fixing weather molding? Did a search and didn't come up with much. Thanks.
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I just found out last night that the moog lca's I installed last spring are from their cheapo made-in-china "R" series so I'm pretty sure that's where I'm getting my current steering wobblyness from. I'm checking the balljoints this weekend but I'm not optimistic. Rockauto got me good on that one, they weren't cheap either.
not going to lie this is the exact reason why I might be doing custom boxed lowers and heim sterling in the future, least I know where the stuff is made and the joints/bushings are at least 'easily' replaced
 
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