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Rockford Fosgate Specs?

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16K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  ScaryFatKidGT  
#1 ·
Hi,

I have been looking for about a week now and I cannot figure out what ohm rating the door speakers are and the sub for the RF stereo.
The only thing I've found thus far is its a 7 channel system with a 380w amp :/.

Any info would be nice, appreciate it guys!
 
#3 ·
If you can't find it in writing somewhere you can do it yourself with an ohmmeter. Disconnect the speaker and put the meter on it (+ to+ - to -) and you should have a reading you can round up to. So if you get 6.5 it is an 8 ohm speaker.
 
#6 ·
AFAIK, the larger speakers, such as the 6x9 and 6.5's are 2 ohm, the tweeter is 4 ohm (least the dash, can't recall if small rear ones are same)...the sub, want to say 2 ohm, as well, but don't quote me on that one.

If you use 2 ohm's and replace amp, be sure it can handle that, as some are not real stable below 4 ohm (which most car speakers are).
 
#9 ·
2 ohm car speakers are hard to find. There are some component speakers, but if you're willing to pay for those, you're just as likely to be doing the whole system (head unit + amplifiers).

I did personally replace all my door speakers and front tweeters with new speakers. The new ones are all 4 Ohm, and I can report they are doing well. You have to crank the volume up a little more than before, thanks to the higher resistance/less power. Before "12" was pretty loud to me, now "16 or 17" is about the same.

Knowing that the door speakers (in the RF system) already have the higher frequencies blocked you should focus on low end reproduction and overall speaker efficiency/Sensitivity. The higher sensitivity will help offset both the weak stock amp and the loss of wattage going from 2 to 4 ohm.
 
#10 ·
Did it seem like you had to upgrade the amp the amp? I recently changed my 6x9 front door speakers with HiFonics 4ohm 3-ways. The mid-range and tweeter are barely noticeable. Seems it's just putting out low base to it, almost as if the amp didn't like they change.
 
#11 · (Edited)
AFAIK, the larger speakers, such as the 6x9 and 6.5's are 2 ohm, the tweeter is 4 ohm (least the dash, can't recall if small rear ones are same)...the sub, want to say 2 ohm, as well, but don't quote me on that one.

If you use 2 ohm's and replace amp, be sure it can handle that, as some are not real stable below 4 ohm (which most car speakers are).
Yes, the doors are 2 ohm for sure. I upgraded them with Infinity speakers.
So weird, I guess they design it that way so you're "locked" into the factory system unless you are willing to rip it all out as I don't think 2 ohm speakers for a car are common
2 ohm car speakers are hard to find. There are some component speakers, but if you're willing to pay for those, you're just as likely to be doing the whole system (head unit + amplifiers).

I did personally replace all my door speakers and front tweeters with new speakers. The new ones are all 4 Ohm, and I can report they are doing well. You have to crank the volume up a little more than before, thanks to the higher resistance/less power. Before "12" was pretty loud to me, now "16 or 17" is about the same.

Knowing that the door speakers (in the RF system) already have the higher frequencies blocked you should focus on low end reproduction and overall speaker efficiency/Sensitivity. The higher sensitivity will help offset both the weak stock amp and the loss of wattage going from 2 to 4 ohm.
It's not that they are purposely hard to upgrade, it's just that upgrading isn't a factor figured into it's design, it's pretty much just cost vs performance when factory systems are engineered.

The speakers are all 2ohm, as well as the subwoofer voice coils IIRC. The thing is, it is easier and cheaper to take a cheap amp, that doubles it's output at 2ohm vs 4ohm, be stable at 2 and take the heat vs making a 4ohm amp put out double the watts, so lots of factory systems are low impedance. JBL/Harman/Infinity make 2ohm speakers, as well as Focal on the high end, but you will still be running through the factory amp and DSP which isn't ideal. Also impedance isn't the only thing, the speakers sensitivity comes into play.

Basically it is an 8 channel amp, the front 4 speakers are their own 4 channels, rear speakers are components with a passive inline crossover and then 1 channel to each sub voice coil, they advertise this as "9 speakers, 7 channels".