So I have an X (spring under) and a Fronty (spring over). I honestly don't see how it much matters mechanically / operationally on how it actually works. So if you want to do it - go for it.

I think the reason you don't see it much here is that it gives like 5 inches of suspension lift - and it gets really expensive to match that up to the front end. In reality you likely want heavier springs so its like 5 inches from the flip then at least an inch of extra springs plus the front is an inch lower to begin with - so now you need a LOT of front lift to match.

A lot of guys are running 3 or 4 inches of suspension lift + 2 inches of body lift and that gets them on 35's - which is far easier with off the shelf parts / Titan swap for the front end lift rather than trying to get 5-6 inches of front end suspension lift. I think that's why at least.

 

I've heard a lot of reasons. A lot of rock crawlers try to stay spring under to keep the center of gravity down without sacrificing suspension travel. I've heard spring under is more stable, but I can't confirm that. Converting from under to over is also cheaper in some instances. I've seen kits for other trucks that are as simple as a new set of u bolts, mounting plate and shock mount relocation brackets. Cheap and easy way to gain 4-5 inches, but cranks your center of gravity way up. Also involves some cutting and welding.

 

Spring over doesn't work worth a shit on the X. It's too much lift, which causes all kind of issues, from the drive line, to the steering rack. Besides that, if you want flex, spring under is better.

 

Everybody already said the things. I had a CJ5 & this was a constant debate amongst jeepers.

SOA gives more lift than you can keep up with in the front without a bracket lift.

SOA tends to have axle wrap issues.

For the same amount of lift SOA will have less articulation than a proper combo of springs & shackles.

To properly install an SOA, most of us need to pay someone who knows what they're doing what they're worth (so $$$$, but if you are a machinist or welder not a factor)...

In the end SUA options seem better for improving things that matter on these trucks while maintaining drivability. As others have pointed out, a proper custom spring & shackle setup will have more length & better articulation & likely negate the need for custom length shocks, negate the need for custom shock mount setups, sway bar removal or relocation, and a custom driveshaft and shimming to avoid it falling off or extreme vibrations that will be annoying & potentially lead to diff issues (usually pinion seals going and/or pinion nuts loosening).

This is all my opinion and if you want to do it just to do it go for it, would be cool to see how it works out.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

 

would be cool to see how it works out.

Go look up KUMA's old rig.... He did it, had nothing but issues, and then sold the truck. SOA doesn't work on the X...... Qualified with: Unless you are willing to spend upwards of 15-20K to make everything right.

 

Why not go coil spring versus leafs at that point? Also 15k seems ridiculous for moving a spring over the axle. Doesn't seem like there would be that much work involved.

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Doesn't seem like there would be that much work involved.

That is where you'd be wrong....

You have to.... change the spring perch, new U bolt's, new custom length shocks, new custom length brake lines, new "one off" custom length ABS lines (that's the one that kills everyone and their truck). Secretly you really need new springs because the stock springs suck, probably need new shackles, then you need to have a custom double cardon DS made (Tom Woods doesn't do them anymore for us). That's the rear end....

Front end.... You'll have to do a bracket lift in order to achieve the height, custom length shocks, custom spindles that correct the TRE placement (if you don't you'll do nothing but blow up your steering rack over and over again). Going that high with the lift, you really need to t-swap, so add in LCA's, UCA's TRE's, CV's, and lets not forget the custom length brake lines, and one off custom length ABS lines.

And since we're talking about doing it right and having it work.....

The OP has a S and auto trans, meaning he's running 3.13 gears. If he's going to run larger tires, he's going to have to re-gear in order to not have things grenade. So now he's changing the rear axle to a M226, plus gears front and rear.

Adding things up in my head real quick.... that's about 20K or more... in parts.