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Discussion starter · #121 ·
If I missed it, I apologize, but do you have plan/profile view with dimensions of skid/heatshield? I have a friend with a shop that wants to help me with this project. Did anyone ever find a fuel cell made from ABS that had similar dimensions? Thanks for sharing! This type of project has been on my radar for a while!
I don't have exact measurements, I tried but the shop wasn't really interested in doing more so they didn't bother taking them down. I can probably crawl under and get approximate numbers, but it is easier to get the tank and just go from there. There is lots of play to orient things the way you want with the tank I listed.

No luck with an ABS tank on my end which is why I went this route. I'll be driving through Montana most likely in September if you are interested in seeing it in person. I haven't planned it all out yet, but I'm pretty sure we are going through Bozeman.
 
I don't have exact measurements, I tried but the shop wasn't really interested in doing more so they didn't bother taking them down. I can probably crawl under and get approximate numbers, but it is easier to get the tank and just go from there. There is lots of play to orient things the way you want with the tank I listed.

No luck with an ABS tank on my end which is why I went this route. I'll be driving through Montana most likely in September if you are interested in seeing it in person. I haven't planned it all out yet, but I'm pretty sure we are going through Bozeman.
Definitely... if you wouldn't mind taking some rough measurements i'd appreciate it! Would love to see it if i am around and would like to have my buddy look at it as he will be helping me on this project. Is the y-pipe splitter custom ( i can't recall) Thanks!

would also like to see some more pics of how the cage is tied in to the frame and crass support. Thanks so much!

really is a shame they didn't want to fab-up a kit. I guess that could be done by someone else. As for liability is concerned, it would have to be officially sold **FOR OFFROAD USE ONLY** :p
 
Discussion starter · #123 ·
Definitely... if you wouldn't mind taking some rough measurements i'd appreciate it! Would love to see it if i am around and would like to have my buddy look at it as he will be helping me on this project. Is the y-pipe splitter custom ( i can't recall) Thanks!

would also like to see some more pics of how the cage is tied in to the frame and crass support. Thanks so much!

really is a shame they didn't want to fab-up a kit. I guess that could be done by someone else. As for liability is concerned, it would have to be officially sold **FOR OFFROAD USE ONLY** :p
I'll see what I can do, it's raining a lot here in next few days.
 
Discussion starter · #125 ·
Think this would fit on the gen 1s too? Been looking at options for mine recently too
Probably, the mounting might be slightly different. Best thing is to order the gas tank and test fit it yourself. It's only like $200.
@sheller73 I totally forgot about getting the measurements. I'll try this weekend.
 
Probably, the mounting might be slightly different. Best thing is to order the gas tank and test fit it yourself. It's only like $200.


@sheller73 I totally forgot about getting the measurements. I'll try this weekend.
Appreciate any measurements on the cage and skid. Was that splitter custom fabricated or was that an off-the-shelf item?

Thanks again!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #127 ·
Appreciate any measurements on the cage and skid. Was that splitter custom fabricated or was that an off-the-shelf item?

Thanks again!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Damn I forgot to post these. I took the measurements but left them in the truck. It's with Nissan for a rust warranty on the doors (dropped it off Monday). I'm hoping to get it back sometime next week.

Splitter was custom but I'm sure you could probably find one.
 
Damn I forgot to post these. I took the measurements but left them in the truck. It's with Nissan for a rust warranty on the doors (dropped it off Monday). I'm hoping to get it back sometime next week.

Splitter was custom but I'm sure you could probably find one.
Hey man, that's alright. I got a few projects left before I tackle the tank. If you have any more pics of that splitter, I'd love to see them. Really appreciate your help!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
How did I miss that you finished this! That is awesome! I'll have to go back and read all the details later.

I hate having such a small tank.
 
Discussion starter · #132 · (Edited)
Hey man, that's alright. I got a few projects left before I tackle the tank. If you have any more pics of that splitter, I'd love to see them. Really appreciate your help!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I don't have any more pics of the splitter. You can't see much anyway. The images I have of the plumbing in a previous post is about as clear as possible.

Here are some pics with some dimensions and few of the mount points and where the gas tank straps go in. All measurements are approximate as I was laying down reaching in trying to see the tape measure (I did try to be accurate though)...and all the rust prevention grease was still wet. Best bet is to get a tank and do the fitting as I mentioned.

Beginning with the cage, the top portion is bolted or welded (can't see) to a section that mounts up to the same frame location as the bumper. That section is 40 1/4". The long side is 33 1/2" across by 6 3/4". It says 6 1/2" in the diagram but I flipped those by accident when I drew the picture. The short side is 22 1/4" wide by 6 1/2". There is an additional bar bolted to the short side which will host the tabs for the gas tank straps. Its length isn't really important, just has to fit inside. The length between the long and short sides of the tank is approximately 24 1/2"

Image

Image


In this pic you can see the long side with the top and bottom and the mounting bar up top. The gas tank strap is bolted to a mount welded to the top bar of the 33 1/2" bars. There is a steel plated welded between the two bars as well.

Image


View from the ground looking up at the bumper and gas tank skid to see that steel plate.
Image


Mount pics on long side, driver side:
Image


Passenger side:
Image


Next is the short side with the tabs for holding the gas tank straps. The tabs are approximately 3 1/4" to 3 1/8" long and are (from the drivers side) gapped as follows (space between metal not including metal) 4 1/4" from edge to tab 1, 11 1/2" from tab 1 to tab 2, 2 1/4" from tab 2 to edge on passenger's side.
Image


Pic of the tab with the gas tank strap bolted to it:
Image


On the short side, there is a plate welded to the top bar (the one that was 22 1/4" long) and another plate welded to the frame. Their locations aren't critical, just has to provide a mounting location. There are two holes drilled through everything to mount the cage to the frame. Here is that mount in its greasy glory:

Image


The cage system was built to alleviate direct stress from the frame twisting to the tank. Additionally I can drop the skid plate separately, then unstrap the gas tank and remove it separately without ever touching the mounting cage.

Hope that helps, not much else I can do for you lol! I wish the shop had taken better notes but they were only gonna do this once.
 
I don't have any more pics of the splitter. You can't see much anyway. The images I have of the plumbing in a previous post is about as clear as possible.

Here are some pics with some dimensions and few of the mount points and where the gas tank straps go in. All measurements are approximate as I was laying down reaching in trying to see the tape measure (I did try to be accurate though)...and all the rust prevention grease was still wet. Best bet is to get a tank and do the fitting as I mentioned.

Beginning with the cage, the top portion is bolted or welded (can't see) to a section that mounts up to the same frame location as the bumper. That section is 40 1/4". The long side is 33 1/2" across by 6 3/4". It says 6 1/2" in the diagram but I flipped those by accident when I drew the picture. The short side is 22 1/4" wide by 6 1/2". There is an additional bar bolted to the short side which will host the tabs for the gas tank straps. Its length isn't really important, just has to fit inside. The length between the long and short sides of the tank is approximately 24 1/2"

Image

Image


In this pic you can see the long side with the top and bottom and the mounting bar up top. The gas tank strap is bolted to a mount welded to the top bar of the 33 1/2" bars. There is a steel plated welded between the two bars as well.

Image


View from the ground looking up at the bumper and gas tank skid to see that steel plate.
Image


Mount pics on long side, driver side:
Image


Passenger side:
Image


Next is the short side with the tabs for holding the gas tank straps. The tabs are approximately 3 1/4" to 3 1/8" long and are (from the drivers side) gapped as follows (space between metal not including metal) 4 1/4" from edge to tab 1, 11 1/2" from tab 1 to tab 2, 2 1/4" from tab 2 to edge on passenger's side.
Image


Pic of the tab with the gas tank strap bolted to it:
Image


On the short side, there is a plate welded to the top bar (the one that was 22 1/4" long) and another plate welded to the frame. Their locations aren't critical, just has to provide a mounting location. There are two holes drilled through everything to mount the cage to the frame. Here is that mount in its greasy glory:

Image


The cage system was built to alleviate direct stress from the frame twisting to the tank. Additionally I can drop the skid plate separately, then unstrap the gas tank and remove it separately without ever touching the mounting cage.

Hope that helps, not much else I can do for you lol! I wish the shop had taken better notes but they were only gonna do this once.
PhullD, thanks for the updates! Much appreciated

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
Thought I'd post this up here.Just a little thought exercise for when I get around to this mod. It's my control circuit to run the auxiliary tank. thought process is to use float switches with led lights to indicate tank condition full or empty. dont care about anything else. and then also use the float switches as ground interupters to control a relay that will activate/deactivate a fuel pump without running it dry and ruining it. look it over and let me know what you think. Tank will fill with a dual filler neck so I can fill one and then move to the other and fill it in one swoop. switch will show tank full status and activate dash light in momentary mode and activate pump and full indicator if full or trigger empty indicator if empty in on position.

123839
 

Attachments

Updated schematic of fuel tank sensing system with fuelpump shutoff. I finally built this (the circuit. not the tank...yet) and made a video but its too large to load. heres the schematic. Whats the best way to upload the video? theres a 20 mb limit and the file is 150mb full size. Yea, I could do some compression and reduce some resolution and frame rate but not sure thats going to get me there. Maybe let me know if anybody is interested and I can dropbox it for ya.
Image
Image

difference here is the addition of a mid float so I can know when the tank is not full but still has some fuel in it. If its empty, the red light will trigger. Half (or wherever you set the float) full will trigger the amber light and full gives you green. Sure I could have just gone with a fuel gauge but that requires a fair amount of dash real estate and this is just one switch and the 3 pencil size lights. Just seemed more elegant. check back with me in 10 years when I might actually get around to installing an actual tank. :ROFLMAO:
 
Updated schematic of fuel tank sensing system with fuelpump shutoff. I finally built this (the circuit. not the tank...yet) and made a video but its too large to load. heres the schematic. Whats the best way to upload the video? theres a 20 mb limit and the file is 150mb full size. Yea, I could do some compression and reduce some resolution and frame rate but not sure thats going to get me there. Maybe let me know if anybody is interested and I can dropbox it for ya.
Image
View attachment 168748
difference here is the addition of a mid float so I can know when the tank is not full but still has some fuel in it. If its empty, the red light will trigger. Half (or wherever you set the float) full will trigger the amber light and full gives you green. Sure I could have just gone with a fuel gauge but that requires a fair amount of dash real estate and this is just one switch and the 3 pencil size lights. Just seemed more elegant. check back with me in 10 years when I might actually get around to installing an actual tank. :ROFLMAO:
This is a great idea. Would love to see the video. Can you upload onto Youtube and just post a link to it?
 
Discussion starter · #139 ·
I honestly don't understand the extra complication. I have a small rocker switch and a small autometer digital gauge that fits on the bezel next to the ac/radio controls. When the gauge reads 0 it flashes, then I just turn off the pump. The autometer gauges can be calibrated to read 0 at different voltages, mine reads zero when the tank has about 8% left. This way here you leave some fuel in the tank (never good to drain it all due to particulates etc).
 
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