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2011 Pro4X (4x4): Which replacement U-Joints do I Need? Confused about Rock Auto Part #'s. Please Help

6.1K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  DrSpencer  
#1 ·
2011 Pro4X, 4WD, auto trans, w/93K miles.

When driving at ~35 MPH, if I let off the gas to coast, then depress the accelerator to resume speed, I get a slight metallic clunking sound from the rear of the vehicle. Sometimes, I can deliberately induce this sound by getting off & on the gas repeatedly.

Additionally, with the car stopped and my foot on the brake, I'll get a slight clunking sound when shifting from Reverse to Drive.

Does this sound like U-Joints beginning to wear?

I'd like to order some sealed, non-greaseable replacements from Rock Auto, but am unsure which to buy.

Can someone please help me with my selection?

Thanks
 
#4 ·
Sounds reasonable. Typically you can get under there and turn the driveshaft back and forth and feel the slop.

Spicer makes a new heavy duty joint but not sure for the Xterra.
Image
I'd like to buy something like this from Rock Auto, but I'm unclear exactly what parts to order.

I have a 4WD vehicle. How many U-Joints do I need to order, and are the they same part number for all positions (front rear, etc.)?

Thanks
 
#6 ·
That's correct.

I have a 2005 OR, pretty sure it's the same but you can confirm.

Might want to check your rear CV as well, mine was shot when I did the u-joints. I replaced with this dorman:

 
#8 ·
According to Rock Auto, your U-Joint recommendation works for my vehicle (2011).

Amazon.com also says that the rear CV you recommended is also a good fit for me.

The U-Joints are cheap, but that rear CV is $116.31. How can I tell if my rear CV needs to be replaced? I would hate to order the U-Joints, get the car apart, only to find I also needed the rear CV.

Also, how difficult is it to replace the rear CV, more or less a headache than the U-Joints?

Thank you, once more.
 
#7 ·
The factory manual for driveline is at:
The propeller shaft starts at page 132.

If I'm correct, there are two U-joint for the front shaft and one (rear is a CV) for the rear differential.

I just had a front and the rear U-joint replaced using the following Spicer parts from RockAuto:
130770


I used Spicer as they have Zerk fitting and are re-greasable.
130772


130775


Mine is also a 2011 Pro-4X.
 
#9 ·
Another symptom is rough riding (like bulldozer tracks) at about 80 mph. Since you are probably not in 4WD, for sure you need to replace the single u-joint on the rear shaft. There are 2 on the front shaft. I lost my receipts so can't tell you the exact part #''s; I believe I got the non-greasables from Napa.

I've never gone wrong using Rock Auto or Nissan's website to click on the part numbers. But if you do use the online parts diagram, pay attention to the manufacture date of your rig.
 
#11 ·
I crawled under my 2011 Pro 4X, but didn't see any obvious signs of U-joint/rear CV joint wear.

Rotated both drive shafts left & right, but didn't see or feel anything amiss.

Did the same for the rear CV joint, but also moved it axially (front to rear, back & forth). Again, nothing obviously wrong.

Guess I'm just going to live with the minor clunking sound, for now.

Thanks
 
#13 ·
Responding to the OP.

Your truck is exhibiting normal behavior. If you can't feel any slop in the U-joints, and there isn't any driveline vibration, there is no reason to replace the joints.

I was unaware that some X have a CV joint on the rear drive shaft. Mine is a 2wd manual. It has 2 standard Ujoints on an aluminum driveshaft.
 
#15 ·
Its not 100% true that you can always feel slop in bad u joints. If there dry and rough but not completely falling apart they won't show any slop while under the truck, but can cause a vibration at speed. Obviously with continued wear they will wear enough to be sloppy enough to tell - but you get to vibrate until that happens. The other thing is that you need to have your truck in neutral and wheels chocked to test the rear driveshaft for slop. The front is loose so long as its not in 4WD.

So how do you know? Well you kind of don't. However if your getting a driveline vibration and can't find it any other obvious reason for it - U-joints are often the reason.