The “drum” is built into the rotor. It’s a single rotor and the parking brake shoes push on the interior cylinder when engaged. Here’s a good how-to:

Edit I’m not sure where you’re seeing $700. I spec’d out the rear with rotors, pads, parking brake shoes, and hardware for $185 on rock auto. That was using higher end parts too…

You may need to adjust the parking brake. It’s fairly straight forward. How to:

 

I've seen both the videos. Good videos. I've only been dealing with the rear rotors while changing out the rear shocks. I hadn't really examined them or taken them apart, only removed the wheel for some easier access to the area. After another look at the videos by Ry, I realized I was thinking of what it all looked like with the outer portion of the rotor removed and thinking that the assembly should always look like what is exposed while adjusting or changing the shoes.
As for the $700 cost for replacing the brakes, I was on CarID and at the top of the list is a listing of OEM parts and a link to look at the entire assembly, which I can only assume is everything back to the axles. That exploded view doesn't even show the shoes, springs and rest of that drum assembly inside. I CAN get the individual parts for much closer to what you showed from Rock Auto.
Finding that sort of misleading information when you enter some very specific search parameters can be frustrating. That and searching while at work (luckily I have the luxury of being able to do that), mixed in with doing the few duties I have, sort of distracts and makes the process longer. That and trying to juggle the search for info for the right parts and tools to do a change of the front shocks and coils. First I'm doing all of this maintenance myself for any vehicle. Throw in I'm still doing research on doing a Titan swap I want to do in a few months as well.
The answers I got were all good, thorough, and patient with a "newbie." It's better advice than I got turning to All Dogs about advice on a video preparing the Bilstein's for the front I'm going to put on. Which is to say, that I got the advice: "It's all in the video." Now, PRG will get my Titan swap business rather than them.
Thanks again, guys!

 

As shown in the video, there's some adjustment at the parking brake handle... which is REALLY easy. But it sounds like that won't be enough for you. SO, loosen that all the way, THEN tighten at the brakes. Then you'll have room to tighten at the handle later on. Maybe he covers that, I can't watch it with sound right now.

Sometimes a leaky axle seal can cause the e-brake to slip, or even just junk build up from a spill or slow seepage over the years. So, I'd take it apart, clean, adjust and see where you're at for the cost of some aerosol brake cleaner and a pair of latex gloves.

 

I'm not seeing any leaks, so I'm pretty sure that the adjustment to the handle and the shoes/replacing shoes should do it.

 

Adjusting the parking brake (what you need) is done at the brake. Remove the wheel and adjust through the access hole.
Adjusting the lever (the easy fix) doesn't actually adjust the park brake. That is the adjuster for the cable actuator. You need to make sure that is backed off before actually adjusting the parking brake.
The linkage that applies the brake shoes (via the cable) only has so much travel to it. If the brakes are out of adjustment and you just tighten the cable you can run out of linkage travel or even just not be in the optimal part of the linkage stroke. This can leave you with a park brake that feels okay on flat ground, but when really needed doesn't have the holding power it should.

 

I'll keep that in mind. I think I went to PRG to get some extended brake lines since I wanted to replace them when I put in new calipers. No issues. I'll take a look before I buy any more items. Thanks!