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Discussion starter · #101 ·
Speaking of... sorry about so much off topic in your thread @outback97, but when I found the PiCam I also found a few of the old dash radio mounts I made years ago. Yours if you want them.
No problem! You have contributed greatly to the thread, and the forum in general, and I don't consider the Rotopax mount and 3D printed stuff off topic at all. Quite relevant actually. It's cool to see multiple ideas and different ways of doing things, that's what I hoped for in this thread.

Thank you for the generous offer, but I'm good on radio mounts for now, thanks to @caain as he thoughtfully included one with the other recently printed items.
 
Hello Outback,

Maybe I ask what do you use to mount your roof top storage box? Is it just 3/8 bolt? How many? Is your strut channel mounted above or below the roof bar for this setup?
 
Discussion starter · #103 ·
Hello Outback,

Maybe I ask what do you use to mount your roof top storage box? Is it just 3/8 bolt? How many? Is your strut channel mounted above or below the roof bar for this setup?
The cargo box is a Thule Sidekick, and it mounts on top of almost any type of cross bars with their universal hardware. It would work on OEM crossbars, Thule square bars, Yakima round bars, etc. When I have the box on the roof, I am mounting the strut channel on top of the rails.

On my Thule box for mounting to cross bars, there's a wide ubolt and the threads stick up into the box through some predrilled holes, then inside the box there's a plate and a couple star clamping nuts. There are four sets of these pieces of hardware. Here's a picture of the Thule mounting bits.

Image




I could mount the box with the strut channel installed below the rails, but I would lose a lot of space if I did it that way. I have never set up anything to mount the box "directly" to my strut channel crossbar, but it could be done. I just never saw the need, when the standard Thule system works well enough, and this box is so lightweight it's easy to install and uninstall.
 
The cargo box is a Thule Sidekick, and it mounts on top of almost any type of cross bars with their universal hardware. It would work on OEM crossbars, Thule square bars, Yakima round bars, etc. When I have the box on the roof, I am mounting the strut channel on top of the rails.

On my Thule box for mounting to cross bars, there's a wide ubolt and the threads stick up into the box through some predrilled holes, then inside the box there's a plate and a couple star clamping nuts. There are four sets of these pieces of hardware. Here's a picture of the Thule mounting bits.

View attachment 139325



I could mount the box with the strut channel installed below the rails, but I would lose a lot of space if I did it that way. I have never set up anything to mount the box "directly" to my strut channel crossbar, but it could be done. I just never saw the need, when the standard Thule system works well enough, and this box is so lightweight it's easy to install and uninstall.
Thanks, so do you still have your OEM crossbar installed and your struct channel? I a box with the same setup, but the u bolt is too short. I was thinking removed the OEM cross bar and add 4 strut channel to mount that box. Do you think that would be a good idea? I assume the strut channel should be strong enough, right?
 
Discussion starter · #105 ·
Thanks, so do you still have your OEM crossbar installed and your struct channel? I a box with the same setup, but the u bolt is too short. I was thinking removed the OEM cross bar and add 4 strut channel to mount that box. Do you think that would be a good idea? I assume the strut channel should be strong enough, right?
No, the OEM crossbars are nowhere to be found on my roof, nor in any of the pictures in this thread.

What type of box do you have? I doubt you'll need four crossbars; most cargo boxes only have attachments for two crossbars, though having a third in the middle could support more weight.

The strut channel is most definitely stronger than the OEM crossbars. It's steel, whereas the OEM crossbars have a mix of metal and plastic.
 
No, the OEM crossbars are nowhere to be found on my roof, nor in any of the pictures in this thread.

What type of box do you have? I doubt you'll need four crossbars; most cargo boxes only have attachments for two crossbars, though having a third in the middle could support more weight.

The strut channel is most definitely stronger than the OEM crossbars. It's steel, whereas the OEM crossbars have a mix of metal and plastic.
I have no idea of model/brand. It is huge, 56 x 35. It uses the same type of U bolt to attach the crossbar. I think they are 1/4 bolt. Since there are total 8 bolt holes from the box, I'm thinking remove the OEM crossbar and install 4 strut channel with 1/4 spring nut.

Do you just use one strut to the front and one to the aft, and loop the U bolt around the strut channel? Is it loose? or once the knob are tightened, the box will stay in place?
 
Discussion starter · #107 ·
I have no idea of model/brand. It is huge, 56 x 35. It uses the same type of U bolt to attach the crossbar. I think they are 1/4 bolt. Since there are total 8 bolt holes from the box, I'm thinking remove the OEM crossbar and install 4 strut channel with 1/4 spring nut.

Do you just use one strut to the front and one to the aft, and loop the U bolt around the strut channel? Is it loose? or once the knob are tightened, the box will stay in place?
Based on the dimensions that sounds like an older Yakima Space Cadet or Thule Weekender or something like that. If so that's actually a great size for the Xterra because you can still open the roof wet box with it mounted.

Image

Image


IMO it's just much easier to install these with hardware similar to what they came with, which is usually a wide ubolt or some type of metal strap and some bolts going through the holes. There's 8 holes because each ubolt has two legs, I personally would not use four strut crossbars as that would be overkill.

Yes, on my Thule Sidekick (pictured previously) the u-bolt just wraps under the strut channel, the threaded legs of the u-bolt go through the holes in the bottom of the box, the plate goes over those inside the box, and the nuts get hand tightened down. It is solid and doesn't move.

Again, my opinion, but it'd be a PITA to try to line up all those holes exactly to hit the spring nuts on your strut crossbars. I'd keep it simple and just treat the strut crossbars as you would a normal crossbar and use something that wraps around it.
 
Based on the dimensions that sounds like an older Yakima Space Cadet or Thule Weekender or something like that. If so that's actually a great size for the Xterra because you can still open the roof wet box with it mounted.

Image

Image


IMO it's just much easier to install these with hardware similar to what they came with, which is usually a wide ubolt or some type of metal strap and some bolts going through the holes. There's 8 holes because each ubolt has two legs, I personally would not use four strut crossbars as that would be overkill.

Yes, on my Thule Sidekick (pictured previously) the u-bolt just wraps under the strut channel, the threaded legs of the u-bolt go through the holes in the bottom of the box, the plate goes over those inside the box, and the nuts get hand tightened down. It is solid and doesn't move.

Again, my opinion, but it'd be a PITA to try to line up all those holes exactly to hit the spring nuts on your strut crossbars. I'd keep it simple and just treat the strut crossbars as you would a normal crossbar and use something that wraps around it.
Thank you for the update, I'm waiting for my strut channel. Once i get them with try with two channel and u-bolt method first. I agree with you about using the spring nuts on it. I can see that being PIA. I just not sure if they box would move due to the U bolt is much wilder than the strut channel.

Last question, do you have any suggestions on how to mount a 4 inch PVC tube on the strut channel? I have a DIY fishing rod holder that is about 6 ft long in 4 inch PVC.
 
Discussion starter · #110 · (Edited)
Thank you for the update, I'm waiting for my strut channel. Once i get them with try with two channel and u-bolt method first. I agree with you about using the spring nuts on it. I can see that being PIA. I just not sure if they box would move due to the U bolt is much wilder than the strut channel.

Last question, do you have any suggestions on how to mount a 4 inch PVC tube on the strut channel? I have a DIY fishing rod holder that is about 6 ft long in 4 inch PVC.
I've never had an issue with the box moving, but then again it's a lightweight box and I only put fairly lightweight things in it. It's designed to be used with rectangular profile Thule crossbars, which aren't much different from a rectangular strut channel. You could always put some rubber tubing around the u-bolt to provide a little more grip.

This is overkill for your purposes, but there are pipe clamp brackets designed for strut channel:

You could also use some flat steel stock with holes, that's what I've used for my shovel bracket seen earlier in the thread. Pretty easy to cut and bend it as needed, and you can always paint it, possibly with a rubberized coating:

Looks like a large Quick Fist strap was also suggested, that could work too.
 
I've never had an issue with the box moving, but then again it's a lightweight box and I only put fairly lightweight things in it. It's designed to be used with rectangular profile Thule crossbars, which aren't much different from a rectangular strut channel. You could always put some rubber tubing around the u-bolt to provide a little more grip.

This is overkill for your purposes, but there are pipe clamp brackets designed for strut channel:

You could also use some flat steel stock with holes, that's what I've used for my shovel bracket seen earlier in the thread. Pretty easy to cut and bend it as needed, and you can always paint it, possibly with a rubberized coating:

Looks like a large Quick Fist strap was also suggested, that could work too.
I bought some pipe hanging strap today, will try it out. Do you know what I could use between the strap and my PVC to add more friction? I'm thinking about rubber strip/tape

 
It is strong enough to hold the PVC going 70 mph? Last thing I want is to loose my fishing rod on my way to the beach lol
Each super fist is rated for a 50 lb load; with 2-3 of them strapping the tube down that should be plenty strong. People use them to secure stuff like shovels, axes & other such gear to roof racks all the time.
 
Each super fist is rated for a 50 lb load; with 2-3 of them strapping the tube down that should be plenty strong. People use them to secure stuff like shovels, axes & other such gear to roof racks all the time.
Cool, Thanks, I will have to get a couple of them. But damn it uses #10 screws, but they don't make that small of spring nuts for the struct channel
 
Well, I end up mounting two cross bar, with the giant cargo box and my PVC fishing rod carrier with two super fist. I even get to take the X to beach at OBX. Going thru WV with the strong wind was kinda scary, but it is not as bad as me crossing I-10 south of LA.
 
Discussion starter · #117 ·
Well, I end up mounting two cross bar, with the giant cargo box and my PVC fishing rod carrier with two super fist. I even get to take the X to beach at OBX. Going thru WV with the strong wind was kinda scary, but it is not as bad as me crossing I-10 south of LA.
Sounds like it worked well. Any pictures of the setup?
 
I recently did this mod. Worked great for mounting a shovel and some traction boards. I used 6” threaded rod for the traction board mounts which is too long for my setup. I’m planning to replace with 4” rods in the future. I used unistrut nuts with a plastic collar instead of the spring nuts, and I think this is a good call for me since I used slotted unistrut for the crossbars. My shovel is on the shorter side so I also added two unistrut corner brackets to close some distance between the quick fists.
Image

Image
Since this photo was taken, I added a few nuts and washers to each threaded rod mount to make sure the traction boards always sit level (ocd much, I know).

This a great mod. Thanks @outback97 for all the detailed photos and responses in this thread.
 
I recently did this mod. Worked great for mounting a shovel and some traction boards. I used 6” threaded rod for the traction board mounts which is too long for my setup. I’m planning to replace with 4” rods in the future. I used unistrut nuts with a plastic collar instead of the spring nuts, and I think this is a good call for me since I used slotted unistrut for the crossbars. My shovel is on the shorter side so I also added two unistrut corner brackets to close some distance between the quick fists.
View attachment 140426
View attachment 140425 Since this photo was taken, I added a few nuts and washers to each threaded rod mount to make sure the traction boards always sit level (ocd much, I know).

This a great mod. Thanks @outback97 for all the detailed photos and responses in this thread.
If you lay the traction boards side by side, you can use it as a last minute roof rack… just a thought for ya [emoji362]


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