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How-to: Control Fog Lights Independently (2011)

17K views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  r0nr0cks  
#1 ·
When I went to do the "Fog Light Bypass Mod" on my 2011 Pro-4X, I wasn't able to find the fog light relay on the IPDM (see pictorial comparison here). Although I'm not sure for certain where the fog lamp relay went on the 2011s (see IPDM layout comparison here), I think it's probably an "integrated" relay within the IPDM. Anyway, I still wanted to be able to perform this mod, so I ended up buying a separate relay and wiring up the fogs using the same basic approach. I am a noob when it comes to electrical/wiring, and although it took me quite a while, overall this was a very straightforward mod.

Fog Light Connectors: I didn't want to have to cut into the factory fog light wiring or track down what pins on what connector corresponded to the OEM fog connectors, so I bought separate connectors for my new wiring. I wired these up to separate positive/negative 14 gauge "extension" wires using Posi-Lock connectors and heat shrink, and connected them to each of the fog lights. I used ring terminals to connect the negative side wires to ground on the body, and routed the positive wires over towards the IPDM (along firewall for driver side fog).

OEM Fog Light Switch: I followed the steps in the main "Fog Light Bypass Mod" thread (linked above) to modify the OEM combination stalk. As suggested in the linked write-up, I soldered the connections and then heat-shrinked them. I sent one long wire through the firewall and grounded the other one on the left side of the driver side foot well (18 gauge for both wires).

Fuse Tap --> Relay --> OEM Switch --> Ground: I used this Add-a-Fuse with a separate 5A fuse to get power from the parking light circuit (#36 in the IPDM). This "hot" line from the fuse box I wired to pin 86 on my relay using 18 gauge wire. The other end of the "signal" circuit on the relay (pin 85) I connected up to the line I ran from the switch through the firewall (also 18 gauge). So whenever the parking lights are on, pin 86 is hot, but if the fog light switch is Off, the circuit isn't grounded. When I switch On the OEM fog light switch, the circuit is completed which triggers the relay. For the relay I got this Hella relay and this "relay connector with 12" leads" to make wiring up the relay a little easier/cleaner.

Battery --> In-Line Fuse --> Relay --> Fog Lights: I ran 12 gauge wire from a ring terminal on the battery through this in-line fuse, and then continued with 12 gauge to the 30 pin/wire on the relay. The 87a pin/wire on the relay (always on, even when not triggered) I capped off and taped up. The 87 pin/wire (switched) I connected to a twist connector with the positive wires from the two fogs (14 gauge).

I guess there's nothing too difficult about wiring up a relay, and there are lots of great diagrams and how-to's out there for wiring up new lights using a relay (in fact plenty on these boards even). But it would have been nice for a noob like me to see a how-to like this for a 2011 to have some assurance that I was connecting it up right and that it would actually work (and it does!). I am pleased with the quality of all the parts I used, and took my time to heat shrink and tape all connections for peace of mind that water wouldn't get in and mess things up.

Overall I am very pleased with the results. Whenever the headlight switch is in the parking light position or headlights position I can control the fog lights independently. When I turn on the high beams and/or the roof lights the fogs stay on and can still be controlled independently. When I turn off the headlights / parking lights (i.e. headlights switch in the Off position), the fogs go off also.

Sorry for the lack of pictures. Because wiring up a relay is nothing special and the principles of the mod are already covered in other threads (see primary thread linked above), I primarily just wanted to share the parts I used and put something out there so other 2011 owners can get a feel for how they might approach completing the "fog light bypass" mod themselves using a separate relay.
 
#3 · (Edited)
When I went to do the "Fog Light Bypass Mod" on my 2011 Pro-4X, I wasn't able to find the fog light relay on the IPDM (see pictorial comparison here). Although I'm not sure for certain where the fog lamp relay went on the 2011s (see IPDM layout comparison here), I think it's probably an "integrated" relay within the IPDM. Anyway, I still wanted to be able to perform this mod, so I ended up buying a separate relay and wiring up the fogs using the same basic approach. I am a noob when it comes to electrical/wiring, and although it took me quite a while, overall this was a very straightforward mod.

Fog Light Connectors: I didn't want to have to cut into the factory fog light wiring or track down what pins on what connector corresponded to the OEM fog connectors, so I bought separate connectors for my new wiring. I wired these up to separate positive/negative 14 gauge "extension" wires using Posi-Lock connectors and heat shrink, and connected them to each of the fog lights. I used ring terminals to connect the negative side wires to ground on the body, and routed the positive wires over towards the IPDM (along firewall for driver side fog).

OEM Fog Light Switch: I followed the steps in the main "Fog Light Bypass Mod" thread (linked above) to modify the OEM combination stalk. As suggested in the linked write-up, I soldered the connections and then heat-shrinked them. I sent one long wire through the firewall and grounded the other one on the left side of the driver side foot well (18 gauge for both wires).

Fuse Tap --> Relay --> OEM Switch --> Ground: I used this Add-a-Fuse with a separate 5A fuse to get power from the parking light circuit (#36 in the IPDM). This "hot" line from the fuse box I wired to pin 86 on my relay using 18 gauge wire. The other end of the "signal" circuit on the relay (pin 85) I connected up to the line I ran from the switch through the firewall (also 18 gauge). So whenever the parking lights are on, pin 86 is hot, but if the fog light switch is Off, the circuit isn't grounded. When I switch On the OEM fog light switch, the circuit is completed which triggers the relay. For the relay I got this Hella relay and this "relay connector with 12" leads" to make wiring up the relay a little easier/cleaner.

Battery --> In-Line Fuse --> Relay --> Fog Lights: I ran 12 gauge wire from a ring terminal on the battery through this in-line fuse, and then continued with 12 gauge to the 30 pin/wire on the relay. The 87a pin/wire on the relay (always on, even when not triggered) I capped off and taped up. The 87 pin/wire (switched) I connected to a twist connector with the positive wires from the two fogs (14 gauge).

I guess there's nothing too difficult about wiring up a relay, and there are lots of great diagrams and how-to's out there for wiring up new lights using a relay (in fact plenty on these boards even). But it would have been nice for a noob like me to see a how-to like this for a 2011 to have some assurance that I was connecting it up right and that it would actually work (and it does!). I am pleased with the quality of all the parts I used, and took my time to heat shrink and tape all connections for peace of mind that water wouldn't get in and mess things up.

Overall I am very pleased with the results. Whenever the headlight switch is in the parking light position or headlights position I can control the fog lights independently. When I turn on the high beams and/or the roof lights the fogs stay on and can still be controlled independently. When I turn off the headlights / parking lights (i.e. headlights switch in the Off position), the fogs go off also.

Sorry for the lack of pictures. Because wiring up a relay is nothing special and the principles of the mod are already covered in other threads (see primary thread linked above), I primarily just wanted to share the parts I used and put something out there so other 2011 owners can get a feel for how they might approach completing the "fog light bypass" mod themselves using a separate relay.
Thank you for this, is the best description for an 11 and up I could find. As there were many and most for older X's that have a different fuse box and IDPM. 1ST: DO THE SWITCH MOD, Then ! Run 1 wire from switch to ground, other wire, run thru firewall into eng compartment, out near IPDM to PIN 85 on relay. (common relay bought at auto parts store)(dont matter which color wire, either can go either direction). Then install aftermarket connector pigtail at fog lamps for H11 bulbs (to not use factory wireing for easy restore if neccessary)(bypassing factory wiring to fogs) ground neg wire to body, Positives to pin 87 on relay. Then run wire from BATT (+) to in-line fuse, then to pin 30 on relay. Then in IDPM fuse # 9 (F9), (parking lamp fuse), use 5 amp add a fuse (ato) and run that wire to relay pin # 86. Then Pin87a not used cap or tape off. SEE POOR QUALITY PHOTO :)

Warning the Relay pigtal has wires marked, but do not match the posistion of the pins on the relay, the links in the earlier thread for parts will work, but the pigtail was designed for a relay with a different pin configuration, and you need to make certain you get the wiring done to the proper pins on the relay. (Just look at how the pigtale wires will go when connected, and note which wire goes to each pin on relay, dont go by the numbers marked on pigtale harness) I had this and it set me back a half hour.
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