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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Username: CALIROCKS

IG: @the_guy_from_earth

Zombie Park edition:
Zombie Response Team

Make: Nissan
Year: 2005
Model: Xterra 4x4
Trim: X, automatic
Color: Originally, black.
Now, custom wrapped


I'm happy to say that I have finally started to SAS.
Let me Explain the goal, which has evolved over the last few years.
Right now, my end goal is simply to build a completely self reliant vehicle, for exploring the continent, unless I need to BUG OUT. This is not a rock crawler.
Starting with a basic X model, now I have what some call a real "cool" rig. But just being "cool" doesn't get you to MOAB or Rubicon, and back home. Naturally the mod bug bit me, and MODIFY I DID. The best part about modding on a budget is, you're forced to think mods through carefully. Therefore forcing you to improvise, and to learn to use what you have. It allowed me to become a better driver because I had to pick and choose the best line I possibly could, until my rig got more capable.
All that modding came to a complete stop however, when it came to deciding on titan swap parts. Ive done many wheeling trips so far, I have over 180 on the OD, my second motor, and I'm STILL using some stock parts here and there. Whelp.. after my last trip with @ChrisHaynesUSA , I remembered, some of his famous words, "Why just build, what you can overbuild?" trying to keep up with him made me realize that some of my components are shot. LCA's Bushings, bearings, CV's, brake fade, driveline vibration, and constant alignments- these are things I do not want to continue to deal with, especially since I'm on 35's now. And even now, there are few places I cannot go, and even less places I wont TRY to go, despite being stock width, stock shackles, ZERO lockers, and 3.13 gears. I now know that I can do just about anything if I re-gear in addition to the LOKKA for the R180, maybe something for the c200k. Fortunately, I realized, that even with a TS, I would STILL have just as many issues withIFS as I did before the TS. Time to ditch the IFS...

I plan to accomplish three main things with this SAS-
1. Durability
2. Versatility
3. Capability

In my opinion, the goals for my rig are somewhat redundant, but not by accident. The attributes of my truck that will make it durable, should make it versatile enough to use as a bug-out-tool, or recovery vehicle. Building capability into this setup will be so I can get myself back home safely, not just to get as far out as possible.
I am going to accomplish these goals, by keeping things as "OE" as possible. Meaning, I want to use very little custom parts. Some adapters will be necessary, but Ill only use them in a pinch. Hence why I will be using the stock TX15 transfer case for now, and retaining ABS . I want to be able SERVICABLE on the trail. And I want to roll up to any Napa, Auto Zone, or a commercial truck supply, and pick up anything- that is, if I actually break or wear out 1-ton components lol. See what I mean? I'm chasing the inherent strength of readily available HD parts from things like utility trucks, and even school busses. Ill have a (wide) mid-sized SUV, but made of "work truck" components. Lastly, believe it or not, this is a budget build. I wont be able to finish this project if I "go all out" on everything.
I chose a late model Ford Super Duty to scavenge from for many reasons. First and foremost- UNIT BEARINGS. They have the magnetic pick-up sensor and rectifier ring inside the bearing assembly that all comes as a "unit", very similar to the POS hubs that I keep replacing on the X. I know, I know, it goes against everything I just said about durability and serviceability...however, just like late most model 4x4s with ABS, we need tone rings to retain abs functionality. The rear will have to have abs added, but many companies make it easy to bring your DIY junk-yard axle up-to-date. Of course, all of this hoopla can be avoided...with crate axles for a 2012+JK, easily 6k a EACH, or with $1200-2000 free-float hubs from bigtime aftermarket Jeep sources.
The kicker- besides having ABS, the Super Duty also has warn manuf. MANUAL HUBS up front, and FULL FLOATING Sterling 10.5 rear axle.
*My favorite thing about this setup- If its not beefy enough already, go to F550 parts! Obviously there is healthy aftermarket support as well.
Snagged matching differentials from a 2010 King Ranch with 50k and 3.7 gears (for now). I've started removing the stock Ford Radius Arm brackets in favor of a 3 link setup in the front. The rear will be likely be spring-over-axle for with beefier shackle mounts and Titan or Chevy leaf springs. I was going to SOA front and rear, but I wanted more flex and a lot of adjustability.
Already grabbed my 37x12.5x17" Goodyear Kevlar's,. Waiting to determine ride right before I can choose my front shock and spring type.

DIFFERENTIAL SPECS:

Dana 60 (high pinion), 9.75" ring gear70" WMS to WMS, 1480 shaft u-joints, 1.5" 35 spline axles, factory manual hubs, Lock Rite Locker This differential is the BEEFIEST Dana 60 ever produced in a Ford pickup. Slightly narrower, but basically identical to a 4WD F550.

Sterling 10.5 (ring gear), FULL FLOAT, factory disc brakes, Ford Racing LSD and Diff cover.



current mods with IFS

Armor:

- Low-pro L7 sliders for 2" body lift

-ARB Bull Bumper
*2" body lift mod for ARB
*Facia delete mod for ARB

-Calmini Rear Carrier
*Rockhard4x4 JK bumper Jerry can/antenna mount

-Pro4X Skid plates

Suspension:
-Radflo 2.0 Extended Length w/700lbs
-SPC UCA
-PRG Dual AAL
-PRG U-bolt flip kit
-Pro4X Bilstein rear shocks

Tires:

-General Grabber A/T 2
35's in easy terms


Interior:
-Center console CB
-Xterra organizer box
-5 Gallon 125psi tank
-OBA on the cheap (thanx Oz)
+Stealth OBA mod How-to: OBA for the RF Equipped X (*Pic Heavy*) - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
(thanx RGJones, Baf6, KneeBuster, Muzikman, usmc Xterra, buxwheat, Old Navy, Oz, wisbike)

Exterior:
-Damage multiplier Player price:eek:ccasion5: (JudeX) (uninstalled AND listed in the FREE SECTION!) FREE: Brush Guard, Bumper Support, Rad - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
-^Tail light gaurds:eek:ccasion5:
-Xoskel Light Cage Xoskel.com
-Jerrycan mod rear w/antenna mount :eek:ccasion5:Rock Hard 4x4 Rock Rack Cargo Basket for all RH4x4 Tire Carriers [RH-2004]
-Hollister mudflap removal
-In-channel visors

Electronics:
-Bullydog Tuner 40410
-Realistic TRC-421 CB w/ Public Address speaker
-Dualy 6" LED floods x2 on the Xoskel

Other:
-Wolo Airmate 2
-Grover 1700 airhorn
-Wolo Siberian Express

PHOTOS

This pic is one of the most recent ones



 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
AWESOME pic mods!
-Got the black zip ties from Ace today!
-I cant decide on a spare tire cover, just cant find one that I think is "me". here are a few contenders

http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/672313/

still a little too cheezy, im open to suggestions...

I asked the Calmini guys what options there are to use the third brake light kit as a reverse/aux light http://www.calmini.com/detail.php?b=1&m=37&t=6&p=1038&n=
they should make this an option with a clear lens and a higher wattage bulb, LEDs would be best.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
depending on the time, and if you plan on shooting (no doubt), im in. i did want to attack this t-case shifting issue (actuator voltage code), before hitting the trail. it doesnt like to shift OUT of 4wd, and gives me attitude. havent seen the light come on in a while, but of course its intermittent. Im .2 seconds away from ordering the ipdm replacement from amazon. i wanted to do this before assuming something is wrong with my t-case or switch. ive got 2 hrs to get it here in one day, which would be nice if im going on an adventure saturday.

If you have guys have not replaced yours yet, here it is http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFE5ZRS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2CCVN62JSJ7P0
 

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We might be able to sneak some shooting in. The range is on the north cow mountain side and the wheeling on the south. But if we plan it we can probably shoot sunday morning. Plan on camping sat night.
 
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