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2010 Nissan Xterra S RWD
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Discussion Starter #1
Drove to supermarket. Now cranks but won't catch.

What is the troubleshooting order here?

Thanks. -_-
 

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Sounds like it could be a bad crankshaft position sensor or cam position sensor. Only replace with OEM/Hitachi.


 

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2010 Nissan Xterra S RWD
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Discussion Starter #3
I hear the fan go when the key is in the "on" position. Does this mean anything?

How can I test crankshaft sensor other than replacing?

Trying to test fuel pump but don't have any flammable fluids handy. Found fuse (seems fine), but can't find relay.

Also don't see any place on fuel rail to test for fuel pressure by cracking a nut or Schrader valve.

I don't hear a prime noise from the fuel pump when I turn the key, but not exactly sure what it sounds like, and fan turns on and is loud.
 

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The fan shouldn't be running with engine not running. At least mine never has. I seem to vaguely recall someone else having this issue - IPDM related maybe???

Have you tried the IPDM relay replace - How-to: IPDM-ER Replacement, Now with a Temporary Relay Swap

No way to test cam or crank sensor without replacing. Sometimes they throw a code, sometimes they do not. Crank sensor is much cheaper, so if you go that route start there.

Fuel pump should be real easy to hear from underneath. Maybe unplug the fan (while off of course) and try to listen for the pump. There is of course the chance it makes noise but has no pressure. Best way to check this is ether in the intake - there is no place on the rail to test pressure to my knowledge.
 

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I never hear my fuel pump. If you don't know how to work on vehicles maybe you should pay for a diagnostic. Otherwise you are going to be throwing parts and breaking down. Internet can't diagnose your vehicle. People just tell you what they think it is and what happened to them. There are several things that could allow crank but no start. Cam sensors, crank sensor, fuel pump, IPDM, immobilizer, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have some experience working on bikes and cars over the years. Thing is, I'm just straight up at the end of my wallet. This thing has already taken me for a new engine, radiator, tranny flush, power steering pump just gave out on me and I need that replaced, heater core just gave out and had to have that bypassed.

I'm going to have it towed here tomorrow morning.

And while I can start trying to figure it out from scratch on my own, knowing vehicle specific experiences to help me can save an amateur like me a lot of time.

So, I'll be putting together a troubleshooting list and working on it tomorrow...

I didn't have any starter fluid, but that's obviously first test.

If I get stumbling, then it's fuel pump/circuit related.

Then I'll unplug fan and see if I can hear the fuel pump.

At that stage going to have to look into the wiring diagram. Video that I saw showing fuel pump relay was pre-2010 model, different layout for relays and fuses. From what I saw there was no furl-pump specific relay, though, it was on another circuit? That still true for mine, anyone know?

Probably easier to find plug for fuel pump and test there. Voltage, probably the pump–no voltage, probably relay.

If it doesn't stumble, then I confirm no spark–haven't done that before on a coil-over-plug but I know it's easy. Just have to look. If no spark, then I have to evaluate why. One likely cause: crankshaft sensor.

I don't yet know what IPDM is, did see it mentioned somewhere, need to read more about that.

Not sure what's going on with fan, still, that worries me. Seems like it should be a clear clue though. Some sensor related to temp putting it in a safety mode seems like it would make sense... I know the vehicle doesn't give spark if temp is too high (it wasn't, sat for hours and didn't change), but from what I remember fan does not turn on in those conditions, even though it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The fan shouldn't be running with engine not running. At least mine never has. I seem to vaguely recall someone else having this issue - IPDM related maybe???

Have you tried the IPDM relay replace - How-to: IPDM-ER Replacement, Now with a Temporary Relay Swap

No way to test cam or crank sensor without replacing. Sometimes they throw a code, sometimes they do not. Crank sensor is much cheaper, so if you go that route start there.

Fuel pump should be real easy to hear from underneath. Maybe unplug the fan (while off of course) and try to listen for the pump. There is of course the chance it makes noise but has no pressure. Best way to check this is ether in the intake - there is no place on the rail to test pressure to my knowledge.
Those pictures aren't showing up in that guide. :/
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I read the IPDM thread... I have the black IPDM, seems like that shouldn't be my problem. I also didn't see any mention of the fan?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fuck.

"I called a place that specializes in repairing ECU's and the person I talked to seemed very knowleadgeable and willing to answer questions, he mentioned that the fan coming on was a sure sign of a bad ECU (at least for Nissan's), and the "no ECU communication" error just reinfornces that diagnostic."


You have to be kidding me. Someone tell me this is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

This guy also had the fan, also had a bad ecm...
 

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Discussion Starter #12

This guy also experienced fan coming on, but no solution or conclusion is listed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Can anyone point me to a resource that tells me what lights should come on on the dash, at what key positions, and what variations from that mean what? (SES light, immobilizer light, no MIL light, etc.).
 

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Man that's horrible new problem for you, you finish one nightmare and new one begins. Such a shame to hear.
Have you tried
1) asking who is local to you in one of the "regional forums" here
2) posting on Craigslist an ad
.... but I think you need more than a mechanic, you need a mechanic that knows Nissans. If you were local I know a guy, but I am in Arizona.
He would hook up the computer and diagnose in minutes (not seconds, the scans take a while and there are multiple), but you'd get a definite answer.

Right now you're looking for a needle in a haystack it seems and you may get lucky or days may go by.

At Nissan you will pay $80+ for a diagnostic, non Nissan shops have more limited scanning computers. Once I paid a generic shop for a $80 computer scan to find out my fuse was out (on a Jeep)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
going to go ahead and list my research here for anyone else who finds this in the future...

^this guy also had the fan and started to suspect the ecm, but no conclusion listed. But another commented says he had same symptoms, and was also having ecm done at delaership.

^this guys had the fan, also fixed when ecm was replaced

^this guy also had fan blowing, also had dealer ecm replace fix it

^also fan, also ecm

^also fan, but lemon--nothing would fix it, all kinds of things replaced at dealer they eventually bought it back.

^fan, was ecm, used SIA to fix it. Doesn't mention reprogramming it, I guess that's because he just had the same one repaired?

--

^according to this video, the relays you switch on the black IPDM are the top right and bottom left. Also, seems like the black ones can go bad as well.

Still don't know of a definitive way to test ECM, need to look that direction. Going to try getting codes from scangauge and from a cheapie obdII reader I have, see if I get a no connection response or something. Also going to try swapping those two relays.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
"Hey there, my name is * * I am a Nissan expert.

When the cooling fan comes on with key to ON, that indicates a major control unit failure. One of the major control units is not communicating. This could be from a blown fuse or link to the control unit or an acutal module thats dead which can usually be pinpointed with CAN diagnostics on a scan tool that reports to communication to the set module."

-2010 nissan frontier crew cab 4.0 cranks but wont start-
 

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Discussion Starter #18
When I pull the ECU fuse from the passenger kick panel, and turn the key, no fan turns on. Fuse is fine (obviously).

Scangauge just says there are no codes to read.
Performance Tune W2977 says "Link Error!"
-_-
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have just about destroyed this relay trying to remove it. Where are the invisible tabs in this thing and how do they work?
 
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