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Hello All,

This is my first post on these forums. I have been doing xterra and jeep mods for a long time now, I just have never been into the forum thing. (too much talk and no substance in my opinion..) however, Ive gotten a lot of interest in a project I just finished on a 2013 X, and Ive been asked numerous times now to post some pics since there isn't really anything I've found similar that has been posted online (That i could find that is). On this truck, I now have onboard running water with the ability to heat the water as well using the coolant system. Any way, the system works great and I can pull water in from an outside source as well with complete filtration. Enjoy the pics and let me know if you have any questions.

The last thing that needs to be done is clean up everything and paint the tank.
 

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Hello All,

This is my first post on these forums. I have been doing xterra and jeep mods for a long time now, I just have never been into the forum thing. (too much talk and no substance in my opinion..) however, Ive gotten a lot of interest in a project I just finished on a 2013 X, and Ive been asked numerous times now to post some pics since there isn't really anything I've found similar that has been posted online (That i could find that is). On this truck, I now have onboard running water with the ability to heat the water as well using the coolant system. Any way, the system works great and I can pull water in from an outside source as well with complete filtration. Enjoy the pics and let me know if you have any questions.

The last thing that needs to be done is clean up everything and paint the tank.
This is AWESOME!!!!!!:rocking:

That is all
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yea i run two separate lines from the pump, one for hot and one for cold. cold gets redirected straight to the back to output the water and the hot gets routed to the engine bay and run through a heat exchanger then back to the rear to output. then on the side of the tank I have a bypass valve so I can shut off either hot or cold. I have a bunch more pics but its not letting me post them.
 

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yea, I have that mounted in the front engine bay also, then routed to the back. heres the pic.just removed the air intake and then welded a bracket to mount the arb compressor (use it to run lockers) (and fill tires sometimes). The zip tie is just to reduce vibration.
 

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55 psi, 3 gal per min. If I hook up a hose and a garden jet nozzle, the water sprays really well and with great pressure. Its awesome.
 

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Awesome setup. I've been dreaming of running an on-board water setup like this for years. I even researched tons and tons of setups on Toyotas and Rovers over on the Expo forums. Your setup is similar to what I'd mocked up in my head and on paper, except I planned on having a lower volume system (like 1GPM) using a lower flow spray head to make the water last longer. My intent was for camp showers and cooking and what not more so than it was for spraying down the rig (although the idea of hosing off your muddy boots or sandy feet at the beach is nice). I was eyeballing 13 gallon food grade ABS water tanks that allow you to "weld" fittings wherever you want using ABS cement (they sell kits with the fittings and cement you need). I intended to use one of those "deck washdown" style of quick disconnect fittings for boats so I could simply hook the hose up when I needed it, and have a small/inconspicuous connection point otherwise. Like this:




I was also contemplating using a thermostatic mixing valve like some RVs have, to allow you to simply control the temperature of the water and have a single spigot/outlet. Curious why you didn't go that route (although I do understand that the valves are expensive and sometimes hard to find). Like this:
 

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Hey there,

To answer your question, I did look into a setup using a thermostatic mixer (only about 70 bucks at Home Depot) however I didn't like the idea of having to reach under to control the water temp. Also I liked the idea of dedicated hot and cold lines so that i could completely isolate one or the other. The way it is set up, switching a single 3 way in my system with a thermostatic one would yield the result you mentioned, however, I would no longer be able to completely shut one side off. Basically the pump is mounted right next to the tank with a run of about 3 feet of hose (as input) and then pushes the water to a valve that redirects either to the front of the vehicle for hot or just a foot in the other direction for cold. So, since I use cold the majority of the time anyway, it's a lot easier on the pump only having to pump water a short distance for only cold rather than needing to continuously pump to the heat exchanger also. And at the end of the day, it's a 4x4, not a luxury rv ya know? So just didn't see the need to be able to control water temp that precisely. The real game with hot water I found is to choose the right type of heat exchanger (as in the area and quantity of plates). I went through a couple but finally arrived at a 10 plate one that is only about 8 inches long. When I switch to hot water, I can flash heat my water to about 160 degrees max and 100 degrees min, depending what level my heater knob is set to. Also, I have set up 3 separate inline water temp gauges that are run inline within the system. I have them mounted inside my lift gate. One for hot water, one for coolant temp so I can see the temp of the liquid that is heating the water, and then one for my source water at the input of the pump. Also, As far as flow rate goes, the pump itself has a function to reduce flow rate. (3 gallons per min is only the max) I wouldn't ever use that much unless I was pumping water in directly from a river or lake, etc.


Hope I have answered your questions at least a little! Did a lot of trial and error so let me know if I can help anymore! Btw, the tank is 14 gallons and is only for potable water. The systems ability to pump in outside water totally bypasses the tank and is run using completely separate lines for hot and cold.
 
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