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Discussion Starter #1
I have hated how crappy our reverse lights are since I got this truck, but I didn't want to install back-up lights under the bumper for fear of ripping them off. I finally found a set of lights that will work, but now I need help wiring them

I bought 2 of these lights:
Optilux Build-in Worklamp
They are 37.5W projectors that have a threaded body that mounts into a 1 5/8" dia hole and are held in place via a threaded collar.

I plan on mounting them on either side of the license plate in the rear bumper. This way they are out of harms way, and should look like a pretty slick install.

I want to wire them so that they automatically come on with my reverse lights, plus I want to be able to turn them on via a switch in the cab anytime the ignition is on.

I am thinking I have to run basically 2 circuits into 1 relay. For the 1st circuit I would tap a reverse light wire and use that to power my relay, then just run through the battery, relay, and lights. Now I am confused on how to get the switched part to work. I know I'd have to tap a switched hot, but I'm not sure how to hook it up. Would I need a 2nd relay? I wouldn't think so.

Also, how do I go about fusing this circuit? Is an in-line fuse sufficient, or do I need some kind of fuse block? I am also going to be installing 2 Hella 500's soon, so I'll be needing to fuse those too... so I wasn't sure if a fuse block would be better since I'll be running a few things that need to be fused.

Thanks for any help! Sorry for the long post!
 

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I would think that an inline fuse would be fine... I mean the hellas and other 'driving' lights have an inline fuse (I think 15 or 20 A fuse), so you should be good there.

Okay, one relay should work... the trigger for the relay #86 should have two lines running into it. One of them will be tapped into the reverse light wire that gets hot when shifted into reverse. The other should come from the switch that you plan on having to controll it.

That should pretty much be it.
 

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and we need pics once it's done!!!
 

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I would isolate the stock electrical system by sticking in a diode btw the rev wire and the relay. This way when you turn on the switch, current won't flow back up the rev wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
xterrock said:
I would isolate the stock electrical system by sticking in a diode btw the rev wire and the relay. This way when you turn on the switch, current won't flow back up the rev wire.
Sounds like a plan. Thanks.
 

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S_e_X-Terra said:
I would think that an inline fuse would be fine... I mean the hellas and other 'driving' lights have an inline fuse (I think 15 or 20 A fuse), so you should be good there.

Okay, one relay should work... the trigger for the relay #86 should have two lines running into it. One of them will be tapped into the reverse light wire that gets hot when shifted into reverse. The other should come from the switch that you plan on having to controll it.

That should pretty much be it.
That would do it.

Also, check your state laws about backup light being able to be turned on when not backing up. I know in PA it is illegal as they don't want you to be able to blind the person behind you.

My question, why do you want projector beams? They would be crappy for backup lights. You would want something with a broader beam (but then again, maybe they do have a board enough beam, just when I hear "projector" light I think of it being more focused.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Muzikman said:
S_e_X-Terra said:
I would think that an inline fuse would be fine... I mean the hellas and other 'driving' lights have an inline fuse (I think 15 or 20 A fuse), so you should be good there.

Okay, one relay should work... the trigger for the relay #86 should have two lines running into it. One of them will be tapped into the reverse light wire that gets hot when shifted into reverse. The other should come from the switch that you plan on having to controll it.

That should pretty much be it.
That would do it.

Also, check your state laws about backup light being able to be turned on when not backing up. I know in PA it is illegal as they don't want you to be able to blind the person behind you.

My question, why do you want projector beams? They would be crappy for backup lights. You would want something with a broader beam (but then again, maybe they do have a board enough beam, just when I hear "projector" light I think of it being more focused.
You are right about the projector beam, however, they are only 37.5W bulbs, so they aren't like projector headlights. Also, the reason I want them is because of how they mount, I wanted something flushmount, not something that I would have to bolt-on underneath and risk ripping off (I drive a frontier, not an X, so I can't put them on the roof like you guys). Plus, they come with indexing rings, so I think if I angle them down toward the ground a bit they will do pretty well as reverse lights. Anyhow, I'll just have to wait and see. They are considered work lights, so I can't image their beam being too focused.

About the law... I figured it would probably be illegal, but sometimes I WANT to blind the asshat tailgating me! Plus I thought it would be nice for camping, working at night, etc. to be able to have the lights on without the truck in reverse.

Would I not pass inspection if they were hooked up that way?
 

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Oh, shoot, didn't realize you were in PA. If they found the switch, then no, you would not pass inspection. Now it depends on if the person inspecting it would flip the switch or not. I mean my dealer passed my X back many moons ago even though the lights on the bumper were not hooked up. In PA if you have lights, they have to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
allright guys. Thanks for the help. I guess once I get them I can see how well they will work for camping/work lights. If they will work good for that purpose I'll wire them up and just hide the switch or something. If not, I'll leave that part of the circuit out.
 

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