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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to run the red wire from my toggle switch directly to the fuse panel using a fuse tap adapter as opposed to taping into an existing wire.


1. Is this possible?

2. If so, what amp fuse can I tap into?

3. Which fuse should I tap into?

Looking at the fuse panel beside the glove box, I have a bunch of 10 amp and 15 amp fuses and 1(one) 20 amp fuse.

Little help please.
 

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You just want to power the switch to then power a relay right? If this is the case, you can pretty much tap into any of them, but there are two things I would do.

1. Tap into a non essential fuse (ie, cig receptacle)
2. Still install a low amp (1.5A-2A) inline fuse as close to the fuse panel as you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's correct.

The idea is to have working auxiliary lights completely independent of other devices.

Thanks
 

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Your fuse tap adapter needs to attach to the "upstream" side of the fuse - the side connected to the power - not the load. You don't want to add the load of the aux lights to the circuit you're tapping into. Pull the stock fuse and check both sides to see which is powered usign a volt meter.

How big is the light in watts? Take that number and divide by 13.6 and you'll end up with the amp draw of the light. Say you get a number like 8.6 amps - just round up to 10 amps. If you get 16 amps - round up to 20 amps. Lights are constant draw loads so if you put a 15 amp fuse in that 16 amp circuit it ought to pop after a bit of time.
 

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PaulXyZ said:
Your fuse tap adapter needs to attach to the "upstream" side of the fuse - the side connected to the power - not the load. You don't want to add the load of the aux lights to the circuit you're tapping into. Pull the stock fuse and check both sides to see which is powered usign a volt meter.

How big is the light in watts? Take that number and divide by 13.6 and you'll end up with the amp draw of the light. Say you get a number like 8.6 amps - just round up to 10 amps. If you get 16 amps - round up to 20 amps. Lights are constant draw loads so if you put a 15 amp fuse in that 16 amp circuit it ought to pop after a bit of time.
He's going to run a relay so the draw to the switch will be very very low.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, I've changed my mind about tapping directly into the fuse panel beside the glove box.

I've decided to connect to an existing wire.

Problem is, I have absolutely no idea which wires go to what. It's like neatly bundled spaghetti under the steering wheel and I've glazed over in a bout of total confusion... :geek:

My question is - I'd like to tap into the wire that goes to the low beam lights. Which wire is that? It's like Chinese under there.
 

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Honestly, it's easier to tap in under the hood (by the lights), then trying to fool with the mess under the dash. That's what I did when i tapped into my marker lights for my hella bumper lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My instructions state that if I only want the Hellas to come on under low beam operation, tap into the low beam output wire at the dimmer switch.

Which of the mess of wires behind the dash is the low beam output wire (color, gauge, harness). This is where I'm lost.
 

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Like I said, forget that.

Look down in front of the air box, right behind the head lights, there is a small bundle of wires that go to the headlight. Find which one is the +12V going to your low beams (easily found with a multi meter). Use a vampire tap to tape into that wire. Then run the wire back along the fender and into the cab via the large grommet that all the wires go through (right below the master cylinder). Will will most likely have to punch a new hole. Coat the vampire tap with liquid electrical tape.

This is what I did and it's worked great for over a year.

Edit: All you are looking for is a 12V power source to power the switch which then powers the relay, which powers the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'd do that but I've already spend hours mounting and wiring the circuit breaker and relay that came with the wiring kit. Additionally, I've run the blue wire from the relay through the fire wall (that was a bitch) that connects to the toggle switch. I'm done except for connecting one pitiful wire for the toggle switch.

Thanks for your help Jason. I have a better understanding why so many people pay to have a professional hook up stuff like this. Given the choice, I'd rather rebuild my rear axle again than fumble with this electrical bullshit again. Lesson learned.
 

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It's not too bad, and to be honest, you can still run it the way I am talking. I personally think it's a lot safer than tapping into something under the dash.

Did you power the relay straight from the battery?

If so, just curious, why did you put the relay inside? I would have mounted in the engine compartment some place.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Muzikman said:
It's not too bad, and to be honest, you can still run it the way I am talking. I personally think it's a lot safer than tapping into something under the dash.

Did you power the relay straight from the battery?

If so, just curious, why did you put the relay inside? I would have mounted in the engine compartment some place.
I mounted the relay and the circuit breaker under the hood (bolted to metal). The circuit breaker has two connectors. One goes to the battery and the other goes to the relay. The relay has a ground wire (I grounded it) and two pairs of red and black wires that connect directly to the lights. The relay also has a blue wire that you have to run thru the firewall and connect to the toggle switch inside the cabin. The toggle switch has a black and red wire. I've attached the ground wire to a metal surface and I've attached the blue wire to the toggle. Only thing I have left to do is find a safe power source to tap into for the toggle switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think it's a clean setup, too. I went to a lot of trouble ensuring I hooked up all this stuff properly and I don't want to give up now.

I may just end up swinging by Nissan and ask them to point out the wire I want. Evidently, I'm in unchartered waters.
 

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Question is, how are you going to tap into the wire? If you are using a vampire tap, I suggest tapping into a wire that is easy to replace if need be.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Vampire tap.

I've spent a good part of the day reading through posts here. Evidently, I'm not the only one looking for that illusive low beam wire. I'm reading some stuff about a pink or purple wires but those references are too vague. I want to be sure.
 

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Are any of the wires under the dash going to supply the +12V you need? I know most of the harnesses from the steering column go into the CAN and everything is controlled from there.
 
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