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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. so i have a set of driving lights mounted and gotta wire them. the instructions say to get power from the fuse box. DO I just pick an empty fuse slot in the fuse box (under the hood??) or do I wire into an existing circuit at the fuse? If so, which should I pick? If i wanted to be able to put the lights on only with high beams on, is there a high beam fuse to wire into? Excuse my ignorance. I haven't wired anything in years and I haven't looked at the fuse panel yet to see what my options are...

thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
so I have read a few posts on different light wiring setups, here, and it looks like i can tie the red power wire that the harness comes with (with the lights i have) inot the parking light circuit of headlight or highbeam circuit. I think I would want to use them possibly with just the parking lights on and low and hi beams so i should wire into the parking circuit. Which wire is that or is it painfully obviopus when looking at the fuse box? Also, I will keep the switch in the loop so i can not have them on with lights etc..... This way i won't always have them on with the lights, just more control on my part, does this make sense??
 

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Did the lights come with a bosch relay and switch?

If so, here is how you want to do it.

1. Plug the 12+ wire from the lights into prong 87 on the relay
2. Hook the 12- wire from the lights to the nearest ground to the lights (a bolt on the frame works well)
3. Run a wire from prong 30 on the relay to the + terminal on the battery (placing and inline fuse as close to the battery as possible).
4. Run a wire from prong 86 on the relay to the nearest ground (a bolt on the frame works well).
5. Using a vampire tap, tap into the + wire running to the marker lights.
6. Run a wire from the vampire tap to the switch.
7. Run a wire from prong 85 on the relay to the switch.

What this will allow is the lights to be turned on with the switch, but only when the marker lights are on. I like this setup as it helps prevent leaving the lights on by accident (since when the marker lights are on and the door is open, it bings at you).

Please use the correct gauge wire going from the lights to the relay and ground, and use the correct gauge wire going from the relay to ground and relay to battery. The wires running from the marker lights to the switch and relay can be rather thin as there is very little current running though it, but the wires powering the lights are going to draw a decent current.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't have a relay, just a switch and an inline fuse for the lights.

I will take another look at the instructions when I get home.... I thought just wiring into the fuse panel for power would be all i needed to do but I guess not...


thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok, i did a little more reading..... I think i need to buy a relay..as i understand it, i will still have my switch which means i cn still keep the lights off with the parking lights on via flipping the switch off, correct...


??

electrician I am not...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok, with your instructions and a diagram of the same, i found at:

http://www.6066gmcguy.org/drvlites.htm

I have enough info to do this... Only thing is, his page shows a switch with on, off, auto on and i have on/off/ground. So I assume I don't need a fuse panel connection since I am tapping, right??????? And your step #6 & #7, it #6 run the wire from tap to switch---> which part of switch? The on part? and #7, from relay prong 85 to the switch, which part of switch, the off???


I'm getting smarter, I hope... Please tell me I am...

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok, correction, so i need to buy a center off type switch and use the fuse panel after all to follow that guys schematic for high beams activating the fogs..... that way, i can turn them on only by themselves, or with any combination of lights or have them come on automatically when his are flicked on, cool...

so, parts to get are the new switch, and a bosch relay and some wire. what guage wire should i use??? if i follow the high beam schematic??

am i thinking right??
 

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Ummm, it's late and I am really tired, but I think that diagram is flawed. The "Manual On" and "Automatic" are reversed. Look at the flow of power. It might not make sense unless you understand how a relay works.

Other than that, that diagram will work.

Are they 55W lights? #12 wire should be good for power. You can use #16 or #18 to wire the switch to the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well since i am somewhat not good at this sort of thing, I have decided just to wire with only the switch, no relays, tapping, etc. I can always go back to redo but for now, this will work.....

sort of like going from a to c via b and a pause....


looks easy that way and i am sure once i do that i might just determine the relay thing is easy. i don't wont to fry anything that the dealer will blame on me....

thanks...
 

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Umm, even if you don't tap into your marker lights (or head lights) you are still going to want to run a relay. It's the only safe way of doing this. Most switches can not handle the power needed for the lights directly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok, you are right. those two are swapped around. It makes sense to me now.

I got all parts (relay, extra guage wire, connectors, center off switch with two ons) except the tap. I figure I can wire everything up and run it a tleast on manual on. later, i can just add the tap and the one wire and clal it done...

thanks!!



off to do it in a bit...

i will post results later....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok, got the wire laid and the switch temporarily installed. i gotta extend the red power wire from the lampside to the battery. i got to also find a screw or two for grounds, then i can test at least. if that works i will install the relay etc at a sooner later date...


do bullet type connectors just connect with no crimping?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well, the kit didn't come with a relay. i plan on doing the relay thing but not until i get to test it at least once...

i saw someone else posting about not really needing a relay unless you tie into the vehicle wiring, which i will eventually and that's whn i get the really into play...
 

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How many amps is the switch rated for? My guess no more than 1A. Those lights are probably drawing to 5-10A. The switch won't last long if that is the case. It will also get really hot as it will act as a resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
10 or 15 amps, i don't remember.

i just finished them and they look good! the wiring isn't too bad either for a newbie. the only gripe is that the switch is tucked up way under the sterring column and you gotta contort alot to flick it BUT i plan on relocating that this weekend probably or within the next few days. gotta decide where and how...... but for now, they work and i will go out tonight to adjust them. they are 55watts..

thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well the final install is almost done. today, i extended the switch to the sot in the dash next to the mirror control switch, the rocker that came with the light set is just hanging out but it works till i get the toyota fog light switch tuesday or wednesday. i also added a grommet for the firewall hole and cleaned up the grounds etc. I also got some of that black wire hose type covering, you know, the stuff with a slit down the middle, and put it around the wires on the outside coming from the lamps. looks good... next things to do is add the relay, and then add the final switch. the rocker that came with the set does get warm. i am thinking about just adding the relay because of the switch possibly being a pain to remove if it blows. i figure i have the relay and it seems pretty easy to hook up....

once i get the toyota switch installed i will take some pics of everything. my only gripes are:

1) the lights are slightly angled when looked at them head on meaning the rock guards are not level. at least they are symetrical to one another. i can't really flip the mounting brackets over because i have threadlocked the adjusting bolt (up down) on both lamps..... looks fine though.

2) the light output is disappointing BUT in a way, that's fine. I am running them on the street no problems. no flashings at me and they are about 75% as bright as the low beams. i have them set around the same level, maybe slightly lower, than the low beams. I like that because it fills in the area between the from of the bumper and where the lights starts from the lows..... works for me...


rthanks..
 

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silverflash said:
so I have read a few posts on different light wiring setups, here, and it looks like i can tie the red power wire that the harness comes with (with the lights i have) inot the parking light circuit of headlight or highbeam circuit. I think I would want to use them possibly with just the parking lights on and low and hi beams so i should wire into the parking circuit. Which wire is that or is it painfully obviopus when looking at the fuse box? Also, I will keep the switch in the loop so i can not have them on with lights etc..... This way i won't always have them on with the lights, just more control on my part, does this make sense??
be careful wiring things into the headlight/taillight circuits, i wired my foglights into the taillight circuit so they'd come on with just the parking lights, well long story short, the higher amperage draw on the circuit wasn't enough to blow a fuse, but it was enough to burn out the taillight relay that's built into the IPDM module under the hood (the one with the fuses and relays in the upper left corner), the module is about $160 if you burn that relay out like i did
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well, i am almost done with this project.

i call it a project because i started out not knowing too much about how to wire lights/relays and i have learned alot.

the next step is to install the relay. since i am not tapping into the headlights or any other circuit in the truck, i am just wiring the power from the battery straight to relay prong 30, wiring the feed to the lights to prong 87, a ground from 86, and prong 85 to the switch on one of three prongs. specifically the prong that normally (without a relay) goes straight to the lights. i will have one empty prong out of three on this switch. The other prong goes to ground. Does this all make sense? Basically, the relay prong 30 is connected straight to the battery and it used to go to the switch, in that empty spot when there is no relay in place. I assume, when you flick the switch on, the relay gets the signal on 85 and then sends power out to the lights over 87 from 30??? am i thinking right??

i have ordered the toyota switch that fits right in our holes, so once i get that, i plan on adding that as well. as i understand it, after i add the relay, i can just pull the wire from prong 30 to avoid shocks etc instead of disconnected the wire from the battery terminal, when swapping switches or working on the lights in general, right?? this will make it alot easier to change switch etc... the relay will be installed inside under the drivers side dash in the metal panel that has some holes already in it....

please let me know if i am going to blow myself up or something..

thanks...
 
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