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2005 Nissan Xterra OR
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All.

When I purchased my 2005 OR ( w/ 60k) in early 2009 it had a calmini 2.5" spacer/shackle lift. Took it on a couple camping trips and kept bottoming out on trails. A year later I installed Bilstein 5125 (1-3" lift) rear shocks with a Deaver AAL (2-leaf). The AAL didn't provide as much lift in the back as I had thought and kept it as is instead of reverting back to stock shackles.

This setup has served me well for a long time and many camping trips. The lift is all I have known and I like the height. 11 years later and now sitting at only 110K miles, I think it's time to replace the front shocks and while I'm at it would like to upgrade some of the components. A few times a year I do some moderate off-roading and sometimes tow a small off-road cargo trailer with camping gear that weighs approximately 1700 lbs. I think a titan-swap would be overkill for my purposes. I'm pretty much sold on the Radflo adjustable shocks for the front in conjunction with SPC/PRG UCAs based on what I've read on this forum. It's possible I'll install a hefty aluminum front bumper down the line. Greg's (PRG) write up regarding the Radlo Spring rate option states in part, "Please note that being one spring rate off will NOT hurt the ride quality." I believe the hefty weighs 55lbs, would it be advisable to shoot for the 650lb spring rate over the stock 600lbs??

As for the rear suspension, I'm wanting to get the Max-Gear steel bumper w/ tire and dual can carrier. Dave's PDF states, "The stock bumper weighs in at 38 lbs and an aftermarket hitch weighs 32 to 40 lbs for up to 78 lbs total. This new bumper weighs in at about 78 lbs." I don't see where there is a total weight for the option of having the spare tire carrier and swing out. I have always had an aftermarket hitch on my X, so it seems like the weight is almost a wash if I were to go this route. Would switching out my current rear suspension setup with an OME Dakar or Alcan Leaf pack provide a considerable upgrade over my current setup in the rear?

Thanks all.
 

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Is that 78 really with a tire carrier? Not just bumper without it? Add another 60+ lb for spare tire
Full gas cans usually? More weight

get leafs too stiff and your rear items may go airborne when off-roading the same way you were used to with softer leafs
 

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2005 Nissan Xterra OR
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Discussion Starter #3
Approximately 78lbs for just the bumper. Not sure how much the swing out tire carrier and gas cans add, I'd imagine your guesstimate is accurate.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Dude! Get the Alcan springs. I went with 700 lbs over stock and 1.5" lift and LOVE it. If you can swing upgrading to Bilstein 5100's in the back and get some Timbren Active Off-road bump stops too, you will be SET UP.

I got one of @maXTERRA 's bumpers last December (same one, with gas can holder) and the setup is the bomb.
 

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Alrighty, here goes.

First of all how high are you lifted now?
Your ideal set up should not be based on lift height, but rather obtaining maximum droop and flex with whatever set up you buy. This takes time and the ability to measure flex and droop.
At the very minimum you want to retain 2" of droop in the front, a little more is better (this is critical for flex, and not binding the ball joints / CV's) . If you are still running your sway bars, I recommend setting up the suspension without, and then re installing them, or better yet throw them away. You'll be amazed at the offroad difference

I personally would recommend the following items:
Front Suspension:
Radflo 2.5" extended length coil overs with 600 - 650 lb springs depending on bumper / whinch (see comment below about bumpers).
SPC UCA's (because they have easily replaceable ball joints that are greasable)
Adjustable cam bolts
(New Stock LCA's because your gonna have to cut)

Rear Suspension:
Alcans at whatever weight you need (My guess 400- 500 lbs over stock) and 2" - 2.5 " of lift.
PRG adjustable shackles (set on lowest setting)
Radflo emulsion or remote res shock for 2-4" lift
Timbren bumstops

Remember that the rear will settle, so do not try to match them at first. If you want it level, set the front about an inch lower than the rear, and give it time. Also remember that you want the rear to remain level while you tow, which means it won't be normally.

I would not recommend going with the Aluminum plate bumper. The weight savings vs cost does not make up for the fact that aluminum will not take the beating steel will... They have failed on occasion (besides, your hosing your aerodynamics anyway, spend the $ on suspension).

You need to take your Xterra loaded with the items you always carry and weight it at a CAT scale (front and rear axle done at the same time on different pads), and then again with what you take wheeling / camping. Compare those numbers with the stock weights listed in the FSM and add the tounge weight of your trailer. That will get you the real numbers of the "over stock" weight you need to order your Alcans.

I am not familiar with Deavers but they are in CA, so that may make more sense.

Keep in mind Alcans are made for retaining the stock pinion angle, and most likely will not need shims, but that is not guaranteed.

That set up, will last you and your family for many many years, and can be rebuilt if needed.
 

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2005 Nissan Xterra OR
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Alrighty, here goes.

First of all how high are you lifted now?
Your ideal set up should not be based on lift height, but rather obtaining maximum droop and flex with whatever set up you buy. This takes time and the ability to measure flex and droop.
At the very minimum you want to retain 2" of droop in the front, a little more is better (this is critical for flex, and not binding the ball joints / CV's) . If you are still running your sway bars, I recommend setting up the suspension without, and then re installing them, or better yet throw them away. You'll be amazed at the offroad difference

I personally would recommend the following items:
Front Suspension:
Radflo 2.5" extended length coil overs with 600 - 650 lb springs depending on bumper / whinch (see comment below about bumpers).
SPC UCA's (because they have easily replaceable ball joints that are greasable)
Adjustable cam bolts
(New Stock LCA's because your gonna have to cut)

Rear Suspension:
Alcans at whatever weight you need (My guess 400- 500 lbs over stock) and 2" - 2.5 " of lift.
PRG adjustable shackles (set on lowest setting)
Radflo emulsion or remote res shock for 2-4" lift
Timbren bumstops

Remember that the rear will settle, so do not try to match them at first. If you want it level, set the front about an inch lower than the rear, and give it time. Also remember that you want the rear to remain level while you tow, which means it won't be normally.

I would not recommend going with the Aluminum plate bumper. The weight savings vs cost does not make up for the fact that aluminum will not take the beating steel will... They have failed on occasion (besides, your hosing your aerodynamics anyway, spend the $ on suspension).

You need to take your Xterra loaded with the items you always carry and weight it at a CAT scale (front and rear axle done at the same time on different pads), and then again with what you take wheeling / camping. Compare those numbers with the stock weights listed in the FSM and add the tounge weight of your trailer. That will get you the real numbers of the "over stock" weight you need to order your Alcans.

I am not familiar with Deavers but they are in CA, so that may make more sense.

Keep in mind Alcans are made for retaining the stock pinion angle, and most likely will not need shims, but that is not guaranteed.

That set up, will last you and your family for many many years, and can be rebuilt if needed.
I am at approximately 2" of lift. I removed the rear sway bar when I bought the X, the front remains. My X currently has adjustable cam bolts from the factory.

Curious why you're recommending the Radflo 2.5" as opposed to the 2.0? From PRG's product description of Radflo 2.0;
"Our simple rule-of-thumb is that if your tires are coming off the ground from going fast, the 2.5" will work better. So 95% of the time, the 2.0 are great."
Most of my off-roading is going over rocks in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. In fact, the first time I ever took it to the desert was Mojave last month (you know how that turned out). But I wasn't smashing over the desert and don't really plan to.

You make a nice point about the aluminum bumper and aerodynamics, honestly I could live without it and don't believe it to be necessary. I just love the look.

I'll have to find out where to weigh the X around here. There is a landfill nearby. Also curious what you think about this new product from PRG and how it could compare to the Radflos?

Thank you for all of your knowledge and taking the time to make a detailed reply Rob. Much appreciated.
 

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I am at approximately 2" of lift. I removed the rear sway bar when I bought the X, the front remains. My X currently has adjustable cam bolts from the factory.

Curious why you're recommending the Radflo 2.5" as opposed to the 2.0? From PRG's product description of Radflo 2.0; Most of my off-roading is going over rocks in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. In fact, the first time I ever took it to the desert was Mojave last month (you know how that turned out). But I wasn't smashing over the desert and don't really plan to.

You make a nice point about the aluminum bumper and aerodynamics, honestly I could live without it and don't believe it to be necessary. I just love the look.

I'll have to find out where to weigh the X around here. There is a landfill nearby. Also curious what you think about this new product from PRG and how it could compare to the Radflos?

Thank you for all of your knowledge and taking the time to make a detailed reply Rob. Much appreciated.
Make sure you can loosen and spin each of the cam bolts. They were all "adjustable" but very few came with eccentric washers on them. Just verify they will move and aren't seized.

I suggested the 2.5''s because more oil capacity means cooler (longer time) operating temps, and likely longer life before rebuild. I've seen the 2.0's go south about 2x's more often than the 2.5's. Just my opinion. Greg is right, he's a really smart dude. Again just my opinion. (that's where you spend the extra $ from the bumper) Nothing is as rough on a shock as miles upon miles of washboard roads, so the more oil capacity there is, the longer the the shock will remain at functional temps. Just like any other oil viscosity break down becomes an issue.

As for the bumper, let's be honest, few of us "need it". It does look great. It also helps a ton with approach angle, along with having well placed and accessible rescue points.

I'm sure those shocks are fine, not sure what I think about the ride adjuster being placed where it is. Seems a less than ideal spot for it, although given the orientation of the shock body, there is little other choice.

His spring rate chart is about 50 lbs off IMO. I had 650's fully armored and winch, and it was fine. He's dead on if those were T-swap numbers though. At lease that has been my experience.

Find your scale here:

 
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