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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Old tires weren't in good shape for this winter, so I decided to upgrade those. And the wheels at the same time cause I was impatient and didn't want to wait.

So now I'm on MK6s with 285/17/16 Wildpeak A/T3Ws. I trimmed and melted to get them to fit, but I still rub on the passenger side. I didn't think it was rubbing that bad, cause it would only do it if I hit a particularly bad dip. Or if I had any passengers. So I've just been really careful and not taken any passengers (oh daaarn). Well, after the snowmageddon last month, the roads were absolute garbage and suddenly there were a bunch of dips everywhere there didn't used to be dips.

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So definitely can't keep this up much longer. Especially if I plan to be snowboarding this winter. I'm going to NEED to take passengers at some point. I really wasn't planning on getting a lift until spring/summer. I want a full 2.5"-3" quality lift so I know I'll be spending a bit of money. Money I didn't really want to spend this winter.

SO, I was thinking just a cheapo basic lift to get me through the winter.
First option I've been considering are just PRG 1/2" coil spacers in the front. Anyone think that would be all I need? I mean, they're only $40 so yeah I guess I could just give it a shot and see what happens. Wondering if that will get me up just high enough to avoid losing any more rubber.

The other option is the PRG 1.5" basic kit with shackles. Now, everyone says shackles aren't that great cause your leaves will flatten out. I'm at 85K miles. Think I could get through to spring without my leaves flattening out?

I know both of these options will give a pretty shit ride. But I just want to avoid tearing up my brand new tires anymore than I already have for several months until I'm ready for the big boy lift.

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Iirc the offset of those wheels are the problem. Even with a lift, the fronts will rub. You will need to trim some fender. At least if you are running 285/75R16 tires.

I'd also recommend an AAL over shackle for the rear. It'll increase the life of the OEM spring pack versus reducing it. It is a bandaid though but will also help with the suspension bottoming out. My oem springs were garbage at less than 80k miles.

For only $40 for the spacers, I'd personally start there. Then maybe trim the fenders. The only reason I didn't buy those wheels is that I was told you have to trim even with a lift. I wasn't comfortable trimming my fenders since I was planning to trade in the X. Now that I'm keeping it I will be trimming the fenders soon and buying wheels.

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I was under the impression the only trimming that needed to be done is about 2" near the back. I already trimmed what I thought was the problem area. Is there more trimming needed that I'm not aware of?
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That area's no longer a problem. I have plenty of room back there. Where the tires are contacting is the top inside edge of the inner fender.
 

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Now that I am not sure about. Hopefully one of the many others with level 8 wheels can reply.

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh right, I forgot about that! 285/75/16. And yeah! They've been really great so far! Better than my General Grabber A/TXs.
 

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So where the tire is rubbing now does it actually damage the tire still or was it the back side that was damaging it? Or were the both damaging it? How much room do you need? quarter inch? maybe just do a little bit of trimming and see what happens... you might be able to get by without lifting. OR put your old wheels back on for the time being hehe
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's definitely still rubbing and cutting into the tire. In fact, just had a passenger today and wasn't paying attention and got a couple more small cuts :p Old tires were pretty dang bald, so I don't think I should put them back on.

Only the top of the fender is damaging the tire. The back side that I already trimmed is fine. It's only the inner lip on the top of the fender as the tire moves up inside the fender.

Maybe I'll just get the 1.5" spacer and shackles from PRG to make absolutely sure I'll be good for the rest of the winter. If I do, I guess I still need to know how quickly extended shackles will cause my leaves to flatten out. 5000 miles? 10000? 20000?
 

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It's definitely still rubbing and cutting into the tire. In fact, just had a passenger today and wasn't paying attention and got a couple more small cuts :p Old tires were pretty dang bald, so I don't think I should put them back on.

Only the top of the fender is damaging the tire. The back side that I already trimmed is fine. It's only the inner lip on the top of the fender as the tire moves up inside the fender.

Maybe I'll just get the 1.5" spacer and shackles from PRG to make absolutely sure I'll be good for the rest of the winter. If I do, I guess I still need to know how quickly extended shackles will cause my leaves to flatten out. 5000 miles? 10000? 20000?
im not sure about how long it would take.... But I meant your wheels, not your tires, to put back on. The offset is what's killing you I think. You should have no problem at all fitting 285 75 16 with not lift at all... just a melt mod. Maybe put your old WHEELS not tires back on for the winter. Your tires should still fit them.
 

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FYI, include an alignment, and maybe cam-bolts, in any change up front. That $40 spacer may be $40 + $55 cam-bolts + $70-$120 alignment. Labor to install cam bolts can be $100-200 too, depending on where you go. So, you COULD end up at ~$400. I guess MAYBE you don't need cam bolts with a SMALL lift... but you'll need them later.

Lots of guys say they have to cut off the lower control arms in the rusty regions. My southern '09 @ 70k miles has no issues with it though.

Personally, I did shackles set to 2in at 70k miles. Springs had no signs of squat then, and still don't @ 100k miles. I intend to get 1-1.5 lift springs or AAL eventually. IF they flatten, I'll do it sooner. But so far so good.

Front, no experience with the smaller spacers... I just jumped to 2in spacer on top. Yes, you get CBC. Eventually, I'll do a full strut swap when the stockers are ready for replacement.

I don't have any issues with ride on my spacer/shackle lift... other than the CBC. Which really hasn't been an issue over the past 30k miles.

Everyone is in a different situation, and its easy to tell others to spend the money. I'd try to do the lift you want now... or at the VERY least.... I'd find a solution that will be included in your final lift. Not spend money now that'll be a waste come spring when you don't use those parts. For example... maybe 5100s at a lower setting, then crank them up in Spring and just need an alignment. Or just the spacer you would put on 5100s later.
 

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Just saw this and have a question. What’s the difference in the offset between your stock wheels and your new ones. My 2014 is in need of tires soon, @ 50k, & a totally stock suspension wanted to try out the Milestar MT 285/75/16’s. Don’t think I’ll have any problem that the melt mod wouldn’t take care of but looking at your top picture, seems your offset looks to be maybe as much as 12-15MM, and pretty far out past the fender.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
im not sure about how long it would take.... But I meant your wheels, not your tires, to put back on. The offset is what's killing you I think. You should have no problem at all fitting 285 75 16 with not lift at all... just a melt mod. Maybe put your old WHEELS not tires back on for the winter. Your tires should still fit them.
Oh right! Yeah... I'm a stubborn ass that doesn't want to go backwards I guess. I've also been working 16-ish hour days so literally have not had time to even look at this thread, let alone consider lift options :p
But, no more passengers (which isn't a bad thing) and I've been driving like a tuner car and taking dips and speed bumps with extreme caution and things have been fine all week. Yeah I can't do 4X4 things at the moment, but I wouldn't even have time for that, haha.

FYI, include an alignment, and maybe cam-bolts, in any change up front. That $40 spacer may be $40 + $55 cam-bolts + $70-$120 alignment. Labor to install cam bolts can be $100-200 too, depending on where you go. So, you COULD end up at ~$400. I guess MAYBE you don't need cam bolts with a SMALL lift... but you'll need them later.

Lots of guys say they have to cut off the lower control arms in the rusty regions. My southern '09 @ 70k miles has no issues with it though.

Personally, I did shackles set to 2in at 70k miles. Springs had no signs of squat then, and still don't @ 100k miles. I intend to get 1-1.5 lift springs or AAL eventually. IF they flatten, I'll do it sooner. But so far so good.

Front, no experience with the smaller spacers... I just jumped to 2in spacer on top. Yes, you get CBC. Eventually, I'll do a full strut swap when the stockers are ready for replacement.

I don't have any issues with ride on my spacer/shackle lift... other than the CBC. Which really hasn't been an issue over the past 30k miles.

Everyone is in a different situation, and its easy to tell others to spend the money. I'd try to do the lift you want now... or at the VERY least.... I'd find a solution that will be included in your final lift. Not spend money now that'll be a waste come spring when you don't use those parts. For example... maybe 5100s at a lower setting, then crank them up in Spring and just need an alignment. Or just the spacer you would put on 5100s later.
Yeah, I wasn't factoring the cam bolts and alignment out of the equation. Thankfully don't need someone else to install anything for me. Not expecting the LCA bolts to give me a problem as this has been a Colorado car its whole life. There's some rust underneath but nothing I'd consider corroded.

As for getting something now, vs later, that's what I've been struggling with. I don't know WHAT I want later. My choices tho are definitely either between the 1.5" front spacer and shackles, or 5100s and SAAL. Either could be added to in the future I feel like. Though I feel like getting a SAAL now might be the worse option as I definitely plan on at least a DAAL or complete spring replacement in the future. Shackles and spacers may even be easier to resell in the future if it ever comes to that?

Just saw this and have a question. What’s the difference in the offset between your stock wheels and your new ones. My 2014 is in need of tires soon, @ 50k, & a totally stock suspension wanted to try out the Milestar MT 285/75/16’s. Don’t think I’ll have any problem that the melt mod wouldn’t take care of but looking at your top picture, seems your offset looks to be maybe as much as 12-15MM, and pretty far out past the fender.
Thanks
I forget what the difference in offset and backspacing is. But the combination of 285/75/16 tires and MK6 wheels, they poke out about 1.5" over factory wheels and factory size tire.
My roommate has 285/75/16 KO2s on factory wheels (common combination) and they fit without rubbing with just the melt mod.
 

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Couple of AAL packs on decent sale atm. I have the first one from 4x4parts, ride is good but lift was less than the 3” advertised. If you go this route make sure to get new ubolts.




 
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