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2014 Nissan Xterra X Automatic
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Edited Post:

Xterra's out here in CO sell very (VERY) quickly. I'm test driving two tonight, in hopes of grabbing one up by this time tomorrow, however I'm somewhat stuck and would like you guy's opinion.

Xterra 1:
2011 Xterra Pro-4X Auto
133k mi
Black, 2.5" Lift + other mods
2 owners, Cali + Colorado (no under rust visible)
$12k

Xterra 2:
2014 Xterra X Auto
49k mi
Black, no mods
1 owner, Colorado only (no under rust visible)
$18k

I have photos of each, and naturally the Pro-4x with all its glorious mods looks better IMO, but I've intentionally left the photos of each out of this post as they might skew the realistic answers you guys could provide.
So what would you do?





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Original Post:

What do you guys think? Clean title, no accidents.
I moved to Denver, CO from the East Coast a year ago in my Nissan Murano, but it got totaled 2 weeks ago when some old lady barreled through a redlight. I've wanted an Xterra for years and now I finally have a good excuse to grab one. What are some issues I should look for first-and-foremost? I haven't even test driven her yet but I need a vehicle. Thinking about trying to leverage all this Covid BS to nudge the price a bit, but Xterra's are obviously in very high demand here in CO. Plus, she's already got a Shrockworks tire-carrier and a nice set of tires.
Thoughts?

Some pics:




 

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It looks clean from what you posted and the price seems decent in my opinion. My 2011 S 6MT was just totaled with 140k on the clock and they valued it at $9k. Given that that’s a P4X and you’re in CO it seems right. Do some research here on weak spots but generally speaking you’ll want to check out the CATs and rear axle seals as well as seeing about general maintenance. The mods appear to be ones you would typically want to add as well (assuming you’re going to wheel it).

FYI COVID is driving the prices of used vehicles up not down. COVID has hindered new car production so those that were looking to buy a car are now looking at used which is increasing demand. This appears to be even more the case with off-road capable SUVs as everyone is now in the “we need to get out and explore” mentality.

Edit: it looks like the spare tire (and maybe the others) is pretty much bald so you may be able to wiggle the price some there. Also, holy armor all on those plastics, that thing is a rolling environmental disaster. That tells me the plastics are likely very faded (typical). You’ll just want to either replace or paint them.
 

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FWIW, November 2019, I bought my 2010 Off Road with 95k for $11k out the door. Bone stock, little bit of rust, decent tires. If I ran across that one out here, with the bumper, 5 of those non-OEM wheels and it does not look stock height, I'd buy it. But I'd definitely try negotiating because I am cheap. If you go in knowing your stuff and ready to buy (preapproved by your FI), you'll have a much better time talking them down...As long as they're not one of those non-negotiating dealers. If they do haggle, it also helps if they know you're looking around and comparing prices.

When we bought my wife's car, I thought they were asking too much, so I made a fair offer. They said no and countered, I didn't like it so I thanked them for their time and said I was going to look at the same car, different trim at another dealer. The sales guy asked us to hold up and went to talk to his boss and came back with his manager who said they would give us my asking price to earn our business.

That X looks great and I hope you end up with it (if it's solid), but don't be afraid to walk away.
 

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Always offer less. Attitude is everything. You pick the salesman.
Get rid of the rusty hitch. Attach new one only when used.
 

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If you go in knowing your stuff and ready to buy (preapproved by your FI), you'll have a much better time talking them down...
I have to disagree with this part. Used dealers make money on providing financing. I've found them much more willing to cut down on the price when they "know" they're going to make more on the backend on financing by giving you a rate .25-.5% higher than what you'd get on your own.

If you're not sure what rate you'd get from your bank/credit union you can still do the preapproval, and when you get the dealership financing just make sure there is no penalty for pre-payment. Go ahead and make your first payment with the dealership financing so they get their commission and you establish the account, then refinance with your lender at the better rate.
 

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i have a 2011 p4x6mt here in denver........i have had no issues with it other than a cheap plastic cap on the clutch that broke and didn't activate the clutch swith to start the car, cost a quarter to fix several years ago.

it does great in the denver weather and mountains especially with dedicated snow tires. Mine is stock except for sliders, a rear diff cover and some hanggliding rack modifications
 

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hey! i'd just keep an eye out for any shady stuff "thesharpestrides" might pull. i see their sticker on alot of cars around aurora, some of which might look sharp but i wonder how much they do before selling them.

I would take it to a local nissan dealer( i like tynans off havana) and ask them to give it a however many point inspection. itll cost like $100 or so, but well worth it in the long run. I did that and they found a few issues( fuel sending unit), which allowed me to haggle a bit with the seller.



somethings to be on the look out for:

recently cleared codes/ dash lights
look underneath for rust.
have the timing chains been done?
maint records


while $13k sounds like a lot for a 9 yo truck with over 100k, here in the front range this type of vehicle commands a premium. so, that may not be a bad deal, esp if buying it outright. i'd think twice about financing something like this.

problem that i run into is, well if i have a paymnet, for only alittle more i could get something newer with less miles and maint costs.. but then you have a guaranteed higher pmnt and insc..

and thats why i still have my 06!
 

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whats up with the "CHECK" under the mileage? my 06 doesnt do that.

check what? is that seperate from the SES?
 

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whats up with the "CHECK" under the mileage? my 06 doesnt do that.

check what? is that seperate from the SES?
It’s because the TPMS systems either isn’t functioning or there’s an issue with a sensor (tire light is on). It’s a ‘handy’ feature that flashes CHECK...TIRES. Very annoying when you air down for trails. Pushing the trip stalk turns it off but it comes back on every time you restart the X.

Also he wouldn’t need to worry about the timing chain guides since this is a 2011.
 

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It’s because the TPMS systems either isn’t functioning or there’s an issue with a sensor (tire light is on). It’s a ‘handy’ feature that flashes CHECK...TIRES. Very annoying when you air down for trails. Pushing the trip stalk turns it off but it comes back on every time you restart the X.

Also he wouldn’t need to worry about the timing chain guides since this is a 2011.

thanks for clarifying, guess they didnt feel the original " tire pressure indicator light" was enough?. seems un necessary.

dummy oil pressure guages... double tpms notifications.. how dumb do they think we are?
 

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...he wouldn’t need to worry about the timing chain guides since this is a 2011.
I wouldn't worry about it, but I would still listen for it before buying, regardless of year.

There's been a couple members with 2011 and 2012 MY that have had to replace the guides. There will probably be more as they continue to age and wear. Model year > 20XX is a good rule of thumb, not a guarantee that it won't happen.

IM1RU 2011

FishCannon 2012
 

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Also he wouldn’t need to worry about the timing chain guides since this is a 2011.
Timing chains are definitely something to consider. At 110k miles on my 2012, I had the guides fail. Luckily no other damage was done, but when it was taken apart, the chains were pretty stretched and the guides had completely given out.
 

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2015 Pro-4X Night Armor 78K km's
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What do you guys think? Clean title, no accidents.
I moved to Denver, CO from the East Coast a year ago in my Nissan Murano, but it got totaled 2 weeks ago when some old lady barreled through a redlight. I've wanted an Xterra for years and now I finally have a good excuse to grab one. What are some issues I should look for first-and-foremost? I haven't even test driven her yet but I need a vehicle. Thinking about trying to leverage all this Covid BS to nudge the price a bit, but Xterra's are obviously in very high demand here in CO. Plus, she's already got a Shrockworks tire-carrier and a nice set of tires.
Thoughts?

Some pics:




DO IT. But lowball a.k.a negotiate before you buy. All stealerships and used car lots are the same in my experience. I Love my 2015 Pro-4X Solid rig 100%
 

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......

I would take it to a local nissan dealer( i like tynans off havana) and ask them to give it a however many point inspection. itll cost like $100 or so, but well worth it in the long run. I did that and they found a few issues( fuel sending unit), which allowed me to haggle a bit with the seller.


somethings to be on the look out for:

recently cleared codes/ dash lights
look underneath for rust.
have the timing chains been done?
maint records
......

Looks great. But I would not buy the vehicle without a competent full mechanical and safety check. A local Nissan dealer would be ideal.

Crawling around underneath with a flash light might be a good idea too. Look for rust, leaks, broken ground straps, etc.
 
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Timing chains are definitely something to consider. At 110k miles on my 2012, I had the guides fail. Luckily no other damage was done, but when it was taken apart, the chains were pretty stretched and the guides had completely given out.
I would argue that your experience (and IM1RU’s) is an anomaly and not the norm. Very few 2011+ Xterras have been known to have timing chain guide issues. There are only 2 in that entire thread and there are plenty in that year range with high miles at this point. Obviously he should listen for any odd noises but the statistics are in his favor with it being a 2011 and it wouldn’t be one of the key things to look for on a 2011 IMO.
 

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I totally agree with Mntbound in assessment. I saw as well that crossbars and running boards are missing. Mileage a bit high. And how many keys? Never was able to figure out how it is only one key with used vehicles?!
Also, just wondering, I thought that all Pro4X had white screen on instrumentals with RPM and speedometer , and your picture shows just like my S black,huh?
 

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I totally agree with Mntbound in assessment. I saw as well that crossbars and running boards are missing. Mileage a bit high. And how many keys? Never was able to figure out how it is only one key with used vehicles?!
Also, just wondering, I thought that all Pro4X had white screen on instrumentals with RPM and speedometer , and your picture shows just like my S black,huh?
No, those are the correct white face gauges. It’s a dark picture though.
 
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