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Those switches fit nice into the factory hole.

Muzik, I just need to ground pin 2 for the light to come on?

To HiJack the thread I got a working relay for cornicks diff locker. We are going to install it on Saturday.
 

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Yep, ground pin 2 and the LED will come on. The basic setup for lights would be.

12v + = Pin 5
Relay = Pin 4
Ground = Pin 2
Empty = Pin 1 (unless you wanted to trip a relay when the switch was off as well.)
 

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lifeinthesouth said:
don't the 500's come with a switch?
It's a crappy switch.

The switches from 4x4mods fit perfect in the knock out holes in the X. I have one form them and it's great. It's also cheaper than the Contora switches which also fit (but don't have the cool color selection and pictures on them).
 

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Muzikman said:
lifeinthesouth said:
don't the 500's come with a switch?
It's a crappy switch.

The switches from 4x4mods fit perfect in the knock out holes in the X. I have one form them and it's great. It's also cheaper than the Contora switches which also fit (but don't have the cool color selection and pictures on them).
One of those little toggle switches. This switch is much better looking.
 

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I had a Hella remote for my lights on my Tundra. Looks like a small alarm remote. Set up the unit under the hood and run the wires. Don't have to go through the firewall. I ordered from PerformanceProducts4Trucks.com.
 

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Muzikman said:
So Jeff, Keith... you get that relay working right?
Nope. We took a quick shot at it, but we needed another connector and we didn't have any. So I need to draw up a quick schematic and send it over to Jeff. Maybe today.

My issue was there were 3 wires coming out of the diff switch and I was not sure what all 3 did and I didn't have the schematic so I figure it was best to wait and review all the documents.
 

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Muzikman said:
You should only need two. One is ground and the other is 12v power going between the fuse and the noid.
Here is what I am thinking. Let me know what you think.

 

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I think you want pin 87 not 87A going back to the locker. I beleive hooked up to 87A will result in the switch working just as it does now. 87A should be powered when the relay is powered which not what you want. I would have to go back and look at the schematic for the relay, but I think that is right. Other than that...everything else looks good. I can't remember the colors of the wire, but basically you want to disconnect the wire from the switch that goes back to the locker and place the relay inline between the switch and the locker.
 

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87A is the pin that is closed when the there is no power on the relay pins 85/86.

Basically when the switch is flat (off) it will energize the relay and bridge 30/87. When the switch is toggled (on) it will de-energize the relay and bridge 30/87A.

The issue we had Saturday was we needed another connector to supply power to both the relay and the locker. We only had 1.

Thanks for the help.
 
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