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Discussion Starter #1
As the title states, I've got a few questions regarding the center bore size.

I'm not starting another thread about the OEM center bore size or the ProComp 7089 bore size, because yes, I did in fact use the search bar and didn't come up with an answer to my question.

I know that the OEM bore is 65.88mm and the 7089's are 80.77mm, but which one is better? I'm assuming that the closer to stock, the better the wheel would sit on the hub? Or am I wrong?

I have the choice between two different bore sizes on a set of wheels that I may get, 72.60mm and 83.06mm.

Will I be better off going with the 72.6mm? That's what I'm leaning towards but I don't want to shoot myself in the foot.



Thanks guys,

-Kyle
 

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Per Wikipedia:

The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the hole in the back of the wheel that centers it over the mounting hub of the car. Some factory wheels have a centerbore that matches exactly with the hub to reduce vibration by keeping the wheel centered. Wheels with the correct centerbore to the car they will be mounted on are known as hubcentric. Hubcentric wheels take the stress off the lug nuts, reducing the job of the lug nuts to center the wheel to the car. Wheels that are not hubcentric are known as lugcentric, as the job of centering is done by the lug nuts assuming they are properly torqued down.


Centerbore on aftermarket wheels must be equal to or greater than that of the hub, otherwise the wheel cannot be mounted on the car. Many aftermarket wheels come with "hubcentric rings" that lock or slide into the back of the wheel to adapt a wheel with a larger centerbore to a smaller hub.[3] These adapters are usually made of plastic but also in aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I'm good with either, but closer to stock is better.. :eek:ccasion5:

Since the wheels don't come with the Hubcentric rings, does anyone have any experience using them? Any suggestions as to where to get them or should I just stick the wheels on and call it good? :tard:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Since the bore on both is bigger than stock I don't think it matters at all which one, all the stress is on the studs.
Yeah, and I'm pretty sure the way to solve that is to just hand tighten them off the ground using the "cross pattern" which should allow it to sit as if it was on the hub like the stock wheel.. I might look into then because it won't hurt, and they're $30 or less even if they're custom made.. Might be good just knowing it's sitting on there perfectly as if they were the stock wheels.
 
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