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2012 Nissan Xterra S
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$800 something, ill find out exactly tomorrow, both tie rods, front pass ball joint and alignment.

I would usually do most of that stuff myself, but I just dont have the time or energy right now. i'd have to get a ride to go get it, bring it back, order parts, have it stuck in my garage/ driveway for days, then get a ride to take it back for the alignment. and to go get it after that!

its kinda my fault, I replaced the tie rods inner and outer with cheap ones about a year ago. im learning the hard way to not use cheap parts.

plus the lower pass ball joint going bad explains the slight clunk i've been hearing when turning into my driveway for the past few months. I think engineers pass is what did it in.
I just bought new lower control arms to replace my bad ball joints and bushings. ~$150 for both lower control arms fully assembled. I am hoping to titan swap before the cheap parts from eBay fail. Just need a year or so!
 
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Lots in the last month....
Painted grill & mesh mod... which included new body clips
New wheels & tires... which necessitated trim/melt mod.... with new body clips.
Hefty Rad skid w/ rock washers.
koyo radiator w/ new heater core & radiator hoses.

Further details/pics in my build thread in my sig \/
 
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Got some 285/75-16 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3s.
$895 shipped after rebate. I got word that Cooper would be discontinuing the ST maxx and the ATZ p3 after rolling out the baja boss at and rugged trek. These are meaty and have the same sidewall and outer lugs as my previous favorite the ST maxx. The current at3s are overdue
 

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First time poster long time lurker. I just finished up my titan swap, new tires are in route. Finished a new head unit install, put some money down on a VK56 upgrade for February, and I have about 30 packages coming in to start doing all the mods I have been researching on here....but I have been saving for this for 2 years now! Can't wait to get everything together over the winter and hit some trails in the spring.
 

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New tires finally. 75k was impressive for old ones to last (down to depth of 5 on 3 tires and 7 on 4th).
They never got really loud, even with age or with the missed rotation or 2 or 3.
Just a little at the end I could hear some highway noise. So I got same ones.
BFG K02 in stock 265 75 R16
53lb each

I just like how they act off road in the desert and in snow.

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire


prices will vary by state, but I had a great experience with Discount Tire, as always.
Other than scratched rims years ago.
4 states of experiences so far, AZ, CO, UT, NV. And about 10 sets of 4 tires over 20 years, 4 SUVs and 700k miles

And this was also my 15k miles oil change day. The 15k just snuck up on me since July, normally I like to catch it around 12-13k. Others’ experiences confirm 15k duration, their bottle even say 25k, but approaching 15k I start losing a bit of oil volume, like 1/2 quart.

Automotive tire Tire Bumper Motor vehicle Fender
 

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2012 Nissan Xterra S
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New tires finally. 75k was impressive for old ones to last (down to depth of 5 on 3 tires and 7 on 4th).
They never got really loud, even with age or with the missed rotation or 2 or 3.
Just a little at the end I could hear some highway noise. So I got same ones.
BFG K02 in stock 265 75 R16
53lb each

I just like how they act off road in the desert and in snow.

View attachment 140645

prices will vary by state, but I had a great experience with Discount Tire, as always.
Other than scratched rims years ago.
4 states of experiences so far, AZ, CO, UT, NV. And about 10 sets of 4 tires over 20 years, 4 SUVs and 700k miles

And this was also my 15k miles oil change day. The 15k just snuck up on me since July, normally I like to catch it around 12-13k. Others’ experiences confirm 15k duration, their bottle even say 25k, but approaching 15k I start losing a bit of oil volume, like 1/2 quart.

View attachment 140646
I feel guilty with getting close to 10k miles between oil changes. The oil comes out pretty good looking though so I am sure I could go a lot longer. Have you ever done oil testing yourself? Kind of fun getting vehicle specific results.

I did not think KOs were very good. I really want to try out KO2s but they were not available anywhere when I needed new tires. Did you see a significant difference between the old and new tires?
 

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@Mastermind46 yes I felt the new tires being softer vs the old K02 with 75k.
They said they put it at 36psi which I didn’t check yet. My old ones were always at 35k.

Nice difference between my Goodyear Wilderness AT tires which has better mpg but I wanted better off road performance which I got with K02. Enough that I don’t want to try other tires for now. Maybe I would try bigger size in K02, but with chains on I would need more lift so they don’t bang. I haven’t used chains in 5 years so they would come higher in the list. I only used toy chains like Thule, I want to try better ones.

If you near Discount Tire, they can order anything, and they ship to your home as do other places. Other places ship too.
 

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$5 magnet tool rescue
Dropping 2 wrenches into engine bay, before leaving Harbor Freight parking lot…a sign that the someday purchase is overdue.
Socket dropped into same spot seconds later.

Taking my power steering reservoir relocate brackets apart to make more. Perfect tool trap spot right below.
Total capture count: 6 over 2 days.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Product Automotive design
 

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I haven't been active on this forum in years and years now. I came back to search for some info. I've been working on a bunch of deferred maintenance. All I've really done over the last 8 years has been regular oil changes. I almost always ride my motorcycle, drive our 3rd car (Volvo S60 which I'm about to give to our youngest daughter as a birthday present), or before COVID I always rode a vanpool to work. So other than occasional trips to go mountain biking or bird hunting, some errands and picking up kids from school on occasion, I don't drive it that much and it sits parked on my side RV pad A LOT, hence the general lack of attention.
So last summer some new tires.
This week:
1) Pulled front and rear drivelines to replace the 3 OEM U-joints with Moog heavy duty joints. Rear driveshaft CV joint is ordered, but the OEM one isn't that bad right now.
2) Replaced the rear differential pinion seal and rear transfer case seal and dust boot. Both were leaking very badly for quite a while.
3) I've spent a lot of time cleaning oily gunk / mud off of my rear diff and off of my skid plates. In places it was about 1/4" thick and I had to use a putty knife to get it off. Otherwise, pulling the Shrock skid plates was the hardest part of this job so far. Having a ball joint press, a bench vise, an air compressor and impact gun makes short work of removing and installing the u-joints.
4) Total fluid replacement:
a) Front and Rear Diffs
b) Transmission ATF Flush
c) Engine oil and filter
d) Transfer case drain and fill
e) Coolant drain and fill (I also used compressed air to try and blow as much as I could out of the heater core and engine case
f) Power steering fluid - sucked as much as I could out of the reservoir with an oil extractor, but a turkey baster would work too.
g) Same goes for my brake reservoir, but that will get flushed even more once I finish bleeding the brakes.
5) Lots of rust after so many years of neglect. I used to paint everything under once a year before winter, but I haven't in at least 6 years now. So after donning some eyepro and a respirator, So I wire brushed the worst of it, sprayed on a rust converter and brushed on some POR15 and let that all dry for a day. I replaced some broken heat shield band clamps, then sprayed all of the exhaust with high temperature flat barbecue black paint which actually does hold up to the heat pretty well except on the cats. I painted the frame rails and undercarriage with a black hammered finish spray paint, and repainted my rock sliders with the same.
6) Replaced my rear shocks, one of them was leaking really bad. New Bilstein 5125s back on. This time I'm mounting them body side up and keeping the boots on. Maybe the seals will last longer this way. I need to figure something out though, because in the last 11 years I've gone through three sets of shocks. I'm pretty sure I'm not bottoming them out, but the only way I know for sure to check that is to remove the leaf springs and let the bump stop down onto the axle. (more on that in a bit).
7) Touchup paint on my Shrockworks and Maxterra bumpers and skid plates. Speaking of that and corrosion, I am replacing all of the zirc plated mounting hardware with all stainless. I noticed that on the front radiator skid especially where it gets the majority of weathering, the hardware caused some galvanic corrosion in worn spots through the powder coating, and now there is some blistering under the powder coating proximal to these spots. Those zinc bolts look like hell, but I really wish they had acted as a better sacrificial anode. They in fact caused the galvanic corrosion. Thankfully the blistering was contained on the radiator skid and didn't extend onto the Shrockworks front bumper.

YET to do:
A) Replace my sparkplugs. I have all of the new gaskets for removing the intake manifold, and bought some cleaner to clean the throttle body at that time too.
B) Pull the lower control arm cam bolts and install the PRG Products Delrin lower arm bushing donuts, and pull the lower Radflo coilover bolts to replace the shoulder bolts with straight bolts and new Radflo bearing spacers... hopefully get rid of that annoying popping creaking once and for all... I've only been living with it for the last 9 years now...
C) Address the paint cracking / rust forming in the rain gutter pinch seams on the roof. Bed liner stripes going down the rain gutters may be the solution here. I have some factory touchup paint, but I'm afraid it will just crack here again, whereas bed liner is more flexible and can easily be touched up.
D) Leaf springs: These are by far the rustiest things on my Xterra, and the rustiest leaf springs I can recall seeing in recent memory. My Alcan springs only had the paint from the factory put on them, which held up for a few years anyway. All my deferred maintenance turned into neglect here. They also settled in more than I wanted. I ordered them with 1/2" lift because I was already running Daystar 2" lift shackles. The back is now sitting an inch lower than when the pack was new. So I'm going to pull my Alcan packs and service them. I'm going to disassemble, wire brush and walnut blast the rust off of them, paint them, replace the nylon wear pads. I actually have some new leaves from a 3-leaf AAL set that I'm going to replace the corresponding size Alcan leaves with. I'm also planning on coating all of the leaves and hardware with DOW Molykote D-321. This is a dry film lubricant with anti-corrosive agents. It is not cheap, but the best coating that I can think of to use here... unless I can get my hands on some old-school Cosmoline. Even then, the Molykote will provide some EP lubrication between the leaves, whereas the cosmoline is really only an anti-corrosion protectant petroleum wax. I also have all new bushings on the way. I broke the zerk fitting off one of the Daystar shackle bolts, so I've got to figure something out for that. I may go to non-greaseable bolts on the shackles and simply use the poly grease on the initial install and not worry about it.

All and all, it's been an amazing rig despite all of the neglect I've heaped on it over the last 8 years. I can't imagine ever parting with it, and it has never once let me down.
 
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