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2011 PRO-4X
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461 Posts
The rad caps are a maintenance item and cheap. Again use OEM.
Do a search on the plastic fittings.

For the one you just remove the plastic fitting and put the hose directly on the heater core as the plastic part is actually for the Pathfinder.
For the other one with the tee you can buy the Dorman replacement or make your own out of a brass tee.
 

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810 Posts
Did a bit of a "seasonal" service this past weekend: car wash, hand polish, top off wiper fluid, Rain-X windows, armor-all interior, vacuum. Ordered some new tie rod ends from Rockauto (wandering steering), and some stronger rear hatch shocks to compensate for my Gobi ladder. Planning on new tires as soon as KO2s come back in stock in my area Costco.
 

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488 Posts
Found a front coil spring broken near the bottom on my 08 S/80k miles. Didn’t affect ride height or make noises. The factory struts and shocks were still working fine but rusted to shttt, so replaced them at the same time. Went with Bilsteins 4600s. Rears I did myself and started on the fronts. Got one of the 3 nuts off the top of the strut assy with the broken spring then got the 2nd loosened only to have the stud start spinning. F me! The wife didn’t want me working under the truck to begin with so a recommended mechanic installed both struts for $140. Job done!

i did assemble the springs to the struts before taking them to the mechanic. Scary! Done several strut jobs before but the X has the stiffest springs and the screw spring compressor was really bending. Not gonna do struts/springs myself again.
 

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2012 Nissan Xterra S
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488 Posts
Found a front coil spring broken near the bottom on my 08 S/80k miles. Didn’t affect ride height or make noises. The factory struts and shocks were still working fine but rusted to shttt, so replaced them at the same time. Went with Bilsteins 4600s. Rears I did myself and started on the fronts. Got one of the 3 nuts off the top of the strut assy with the broken spring then got the 2nd loosened only to have the stud start spinning. F me! The wife didn’t want me working under the truck to begin with so a recommended mechanic installed both struts for $140. Job done!

i did assemble the springs to the struts before taking them to the mechanic. Scary! Done several strut jobs before but the X has the stiffest springs and the screw spring compressor was really bending. Not gonna do struts/springs myself again.
It cost me $50 to have both assembled. Made install super easy when none of my hardware was seized. I was shocked with how stiff those springs were and I couldn't get the compressor out when assembled (5100s). Glad you got it all back together.

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2011 Pro-4X
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117 Posts
Two replacements this weekend.

First was the rear cup holder. My original one randomly crapped out a couple of weeks ago. Managed to snag this new replacement from Walmart for less than $20. Color is slightly off, but who cares it fits and works great.
130474


Second was the rear diff cover. Dealer wanted $500 to reseal the original that was weeping a lot. Took that as the right justification to buy the ARB diff cover and a lube locker gasket and do the job on a quiet Saturday when I could be out of the city. Looks great and definitely seems like it will stand up to anything.
130475

130476
 

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145 Posts
Picked up an air locker for what is now my third diff, trying to get some more life out of this one. As well as the cats finally started to wear out, figured screw it and ordered a full system from Z1. Hard to justify the price, but I’m king of buying things the rig doesn’t really need.
 

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It cost me $50 to have both assembled. Made install super easy when none of my hardware was seized. I was shocked with how stiff those springs were and I couldn't get the compressor out when assembled (5100s). Glad you got it all back together.
Yeah the springs are the stiffest I’ve done since I’ve only done cars before. My compressors wouldn’t come out too but if I backed the jacking rods Out of the end brackets then I was able to Get them out.
 

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2008 Xterra S 4x4 AT
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38 Posts
Was proud of myself for doing the bank 1/sensor 1 O2 sensor myself and saving a few hundred vs. the mechanic's quote so it would pass state emission inspection as the CEL was on with P1148, P0031 and P0430. Those all cleared and I sent it back to the mechanic to continue with the inspection.

I knew it likely needed front brakes from looking at the rotors/pads while I had the front passenger wheel off to do the O2 sensor and was resigned to paying for that as I only have street parking and it limits what I can easily do myself. I didn't count on the front hub assemblies and the rear drive shaft needing to be replaced. Not much choice but to have the mechanic do these as it's beyond the current inspection sticker and I can't easily do these myself quickly. Ugh.
 

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‘06 Super Black S 5AT & ‘10 Knight Armor OR 5AT
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882 Posts
......I didn't count on the front hub assemblies and the rear drive shaft needing to be replaced. Not much choice but to have the mechanic do these as it's beyond the current inspection sticker and I can't easily do these myself quickly. Ugh......
Both front and rear driveshafts are fully serviceable. 2 ujoints on front, 1 ujoint and a CV on rear.
Easy to replace all ujoints. CV isn’t hard, but I doubt it’s shot too. Maybe, but unlikely.
All the ujoints can be bought from RockAuto, as can the CV if it’s needed.

VERY RARELY DOES A DRIVESHAFT NEED TO BE REPLACED ENTIRELY.


The front hub assemblies can be bought at a good price from RockAuto as well. Timken is the brand to get.

Hopefully I got this info to you in time.
 

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‘06 Super Black S 5AT & ‘10 Knight Armor OR 5AT
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882 Posts
@DesmosDromos - these are the parts I bought from RockAuto when I did both shafts on my ‘06
(254 is rear, 2 269’s for front.):
130522

130523

130524


I bought cheaper ujoints. You could drop more coin and get Dana/Spicers.
Dorman is the only provider for the CV.
 

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‘06 Super Black S 5AT & ‘10 Knight Armor OR 5AT
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Did new pads and rotors.


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