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Changed out the cabin filter. Anyone else accidentally bust that little tab off or just me?

Glad Nissan already had a hole in the airbox portion so I could use a baby zip tie to close it back up.


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The instructions should say.... Remove glove box, break tab, replace filter, reassemble.

Everyone breaks that damn thing.
 

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2,028 Posts
Everyone's mods are looking good. Fresh 35s and awesome sound system setups. I like what I'm seeing. As far as my rig I pulled the trigger on the last green Rigid Radiance bar left on the internet. Figured I'd do the top one day but when i saw that i probably wouldn't be able to find one if i waited, i just fully sent it. Here it is complete but still need to do the ambient grill lighting and update my rock lights. More pics and details on it in my build thread.

 

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Everyone's mods are looking good. Fresh 35s and awesome sound system setups. I like what I'm seeing. As far as my rig I pulled the trigger on the last green Rigid Radiance bar left on the internet. Figured I'd do the top one day but when i saw that i probably wouldn't be able to find one if i waited, i just fully sent it. Here it is complete but still need to do the ambient grill lighting and update my rock lights. More pics and details on it in my build thread.

Damn brother, rig is looking sick. Happy to see I’m not the only OG still rocking my X. Actually still have and use those roof lights I bought from you years back. Hope all is well and happy to see a familiar face.
 

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Damn brother, rig is looking sick. Happy to see I’m not the only OG still rocking my X. Actually still have and use those roof lights I bought from you years back. Hope all is well and happy to see a familiar face.
Wow great to see you here man! Didn't know you were still lurking too. I don't sign on as much but wanted to see my build/plan to it's completion so figured why not still post it up here at least. Stoked you still have the X and those lights haha, don't plan on ever getting rid of mine. Stay in touch
 

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Wow great to see you here man! Didn't know you were still lurking too. I don't sign on as much but wanted to see my build/plan to it's completion so figured why not still post it up here at least. Stoked you still have the X and those lights haha, don't plan on ever getting rid of mine. Stay in touch
Man x is super underrated. Such an appealing vehicle; understated yet capable and flexible.


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$75 bucks, front u joint and labor to have a shop press then out/ in.

not too bad..

need to do a fun mod next lol
 

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327 Posts



Installed a slim 150watt sub under my seat. Such a huge difference shoulda done it sooner.


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I pulled up the door trim and can’t get the corner reattached where your wires are poking out. Any tips on getting the trim reseated?


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Well then...
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600 Posts
Prepping for 100k service.

1) trans flush (jeez the OEM trans fluid is expensive)
2) coolant replacement and possible hoses (I have a minor leak somewhere, going to try and track down)
2) crankshaft position sensor (cause Xterra)
3) spark plugs
4) valve covers
5) fluid in diffs and transfer case
6) touch up roof rack and grill
7) have interior detailed because stains
8) overall inspection of what’s worn and due for replacement

I’m thinking this will be somewhere between $500-$750. Cheaper than a new truck!


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I pulled up the door trim and can’t get the corner reattached where your wires are poking out. Any tips on getting the trim reseated?
If you look at the trim piece you'll see that you have to slide the holder post over the clip which is probably still in the door channel.
 

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102 Posts
I pulled up the door trim and can’t get the corner reattached where your wires are poking out. Any tips on getting the trim reseated?
If I recall correctly, this trim is attached with a two-piece fastener. When you remove the trim, the fastener may not separate. If the two halves of the fastener don't separate, then the trim will just break away from the fastener which remains stuck into the body. To fix this, you need to separate the fastener by pulling up on the top part of it with a claw shaped trim removal tool or the nail remover end of a prybar or something similar. Two flathead screwdrivers may work, but it'll be awkward.

Once you separate the two halves of the fastener, slip the upper half of the fastener into the slot on the trim and then push the trim into place until the fastener clicks back together.
 

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2011 PRO-4X
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222 Posts
Prepping for 100k service.

1) trans flush (jeez the OEM trans fluid is expensive)
2) coolant replacement and possible hoses (I have a minor leak somewhere, going to try and track down)
2) crankshaft position sensor (cause Xterra)
3) spark plugs
4) valve covers
5) fluid in diffs and transfer case
6) touch up roof rack and grill
7) have interior detailed because stains
8) overall inspection of what’s worn and due for replacement

I’m thinking this will be somewhere between $500-$750. Cheaper than a new truck!


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Use the Valvoline MaxLife ATF from Walmart.

I would also suggest thermostat and both radiator caps, OEM only. And serpentine belt. Also look into replacing the plastic fittings where the heater hoses go into the firewall.
 

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845 Posts
If I recall correctly, this trim is attached with a two-piece fastener. When you remove the trim, the fastener may not separate. If the two halves of the fastener don't separate, then the trim will just break away from the fastener which remains stuck into the body. To fix this, you need to separate the fastener by pulling up on the top part of it with a claw shaped trim removal tool or the nail remover end of a prybar or something similar. Two flathead screwdrivers may work, but it'll be awkward.

Once you separate the two halves of the fastener, slip the upper half of the fastener into the slot on the trim and then push the trim into place until the fastener clicks back together.
Gonna give this a go. I think this is what happened to the end fastener; I just left it loose.


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Use the Valvoline MaxLife ATF from Walmart.

I would also suggest thermostat and both radiator caps, OEM only. And serpentine belt. Also look into replacing the plastic fittings where the heater hoses go into the firewall.
Why do you need to replace rad caps?

For the heater fittings, do you replace with OEMs?


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