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Can you share the video you watched? I've been thinking about this after reading I believe it was @mtnbound's experience.

theres a few of them:


I didnt take apart much of the center console to fix it, but it was a pita and i have long fingers!

i just removed the cup holders, the under dash part and then the part that goes around the shifter. at that point you can use a finger or something to hold the cable onto the shifter pin to get it to go into the gear you need it to, just takes alittle practice!
 

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‘06 Super Black S 5AT & ‘10 Knight Armor OR 5AT
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No mods for fun....but the good ol wallet hits that are routine/necessary jobs....all since March, so it became my covid project.....

XTERRA MAINTENANCE AND MILEAGE:

251,000:
*Front brake pads and rotors all Bosch Quietcast
*Proper lube on all brake parts
*Cabin air filter
*Intake air filter

258,840:
*Full synthetic 5w-30 oil change with Fram extra tough filter
*Transmission drain and fill - approx 3.5-4 quarts Valvoline max life full synthetic atf
*Spark plug replacement NGK laser iridium
*New valve covers and valve cover gaskets factory Nissan replacements
*New factory Nissan replacement pcv hose and blow by hose
*New vacuum hoses (cut by the foot at AZ)
*New plenum gaskets from Nissan
*Cleaned throttle body and plenum with wd40 specialist carb cleaner
*Brand new radiator - Denso - and upper/lower hoses and clamps
*New factory Nissan thermostat and gasket
*Coolant fill - Peak Asian Vehicle Green - 2 gallons (may need a little more)

All thanks to this forum, YouTube, and the fsm which was found on this site!

I still need to find a reliable replacement clock spring/spiral cable, as my horn/cruise/steering wheel controls are all shot and this is the month for my inspection. Any help would be awesome, older links I've found up here seem to no longer be up/active/valid. This piece has been quite a beeyotch to secure.
This looks like it?

 

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This looks like it?

ive seen videos and how tos with just the clock spring and not the whole multi function combo. I just really don't want to shell out the $200+ if I can find just that center piece. Thanks for that link though, I'll hold on to it.
 

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I just replaced my battery with a yellow top Optima that I got for $188, replaced both rear hatch props and planned my future installation of a wiring harness on an off road steel rear bumper with a hitch integrated in it.

That was today. Wednesday I had my transmission, xfer and diffs oils changed at the dealership that I won't likely ever be returning to.

This forum is a bit confusing to set up but still very informative and the same goes for this thread.
 

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Ok, last year I installed a backup camera to the X but was surprisingly disappointed with the picture. Believe it or not it was TOO sensitive to light. Moderate sunlight and my LED backup lights were too much for it so I just replaced it today. Quite happy with the replacement. And that black thing is just my bike hitch.

Now comes part 2 and could be in my “dumb question” thread. Since the old one still technically works, where is a decent front location to use it when crawling or over landing? My pioneer deck has front inputs available. Would love to have it underneath somewhere for good views but not get whacked or caked with crap and be useless. Be aware it only cost me $15 so if it’s destroyed, oh well. It’s only $ right? Not like $600 for armor or $4000 for the big TS.

Oh, and didn’t post last week. But....


2 Skar Audio VD8’s with 400 watts each on a Rockville RXD-M0. Again, thanks @General_Tarfun for the location brainstorm. Had to lift the rear seats with blocks and bumpers but got good clearance.


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Just replaced my spark plugs after 171k kms. I gotta admit, the ones I took out looked great. They were NGK Iridiums and they had an electrode nipple on both sides of the plug. The NGK Lasers I put in did not. Cost around 80 bucks.

My rear passenger side plug hole was oil soaked though. I guess the gasket must have let go there. Maybe when I do timing chain next year, I'll have a go at the valve cover gasket.

FWIW I did not remove the intake and it took me less than and hour to do all 6 - thanks to the folks on here who confirmed it can be done ! ;)
 

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Changed out the cabin filter. Anyone else accidentally bust that little tab off or just me?

Glad Nissan already had a hole in the airbox portion so I could use a baby zip tie to close it back up.


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Got the Alldogs Offroad bilstein 5100 kit with Broverland leaf spring packs and their medium coil springs up front.
Got the 4 shocks installed, springs just arrived. Will install this weekend.
Replaces my stock suspension with 140k miles
 

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Ok, last year I installed a backup camera to the X but was surprisingly disappointed with the picture. Believe it or not it was TOO sensitive to light. Moderate sunlight and my LED backup lights were too much for it so I just replaced it today. Quite happy with the replacement. And that black thing is just my bike hitch.

Now comes part 2 and could be in my “dumb question” thread. Since the old one still technically works, where is a decent front location to use it when crawling or over landing? My pioneer deck has front inputs available. Would love to have it underneath somewhere for good views but not get whacked or caked with crap and be useless. Be aware it only cost me $15 so if it’s destroyed, oh well. It’s only $ right? Not like $600 for armor or $4000 for the big TS.

Oh, and didn’t post last week. But....


2 Skar Audio VD8’s with 400 watts each on a Rockville RXD-M0. Again, thanks @General_Tarfun for the location brainstorm. Had to lift the rear seats with blocks and bumpers but got good clearance.


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Man, I need to look into doing that. I have a slim RF P300 12" sub in the back that technically doesn't take up alot of room but still would like the space it's taking up back.
 

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I’ll send you the specs and component list of what I’ve done. Both for single and double sub. Just remember, I don’t have the stock tire jack under there anymore. The crank rods are in the rear compartment and I use a hi-lift jack when on the road.


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Have to go ahead and buy a full exhaust system :rolleyes:. Got a rust hole in the "Y" Pipe and in the Muffler. As well as both cats pushing out CEL codes. $1100 in parts I believe :oops:
 

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2012 Nissan Xterra S
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Have to go ahead and buy a full exhaust system :rolleyes:. Got a rust hole in the "Y" Pipe and in the Muffler. As well as both cats pushing out CEL codes. $1100 in parts I believe :oops:
If you don't want to pay for the whole catback, you can do a magnaflow knock off in place of the muffler and y pipe for ~$150 installed.

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If you don't want to pay for the whole catback, you can do a magnaflow knock off in place of the muffler and y pipe for ~$150 installed.

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I didn't want to go too cheap on the the cats. But cat-back I haven't seen anything less than $400-$500 that is stainless.

Got a link to the cat-back you mentioned?
 

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2012 Nissan Xterra S
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I didn't want to go too cheap on the the cats. But cat-back I haven't seen anything less than $400-$500 that is stainless.

Got a link to the cat-back you mentioned?
Oh, this is just a muffler and some pipe to replace the OEM muffler and shitty y pipe, not a cbe. Just the bare minimum while keeping most of the OEM piping.

Google totalflow muffler. Should come up on amazon. They use very similar part numbers to magnaflow (legit copy) and like 30 to 50 bucks for the muffler then have your local exhaust shop install it. You can have them replace more piping and a good one will have stainless steel but I went with galvanized aluminum for the cheapest option.

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Also at 170k kms had all 4 pads and rotors replaced and all drivetrain fluids (axles, tranny and transfer case).
Ordered my Bilstein 4600s and waiting for them to arrive....delays at Bilstein they say - anyone else waiting ?
 

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Man, I need to look into doing that. I have a slim RF P300 12" sub in the back that technically doesn't take up alot of room but still would like the space it's taking up back.
Here's the basics of my subwoofer installation:
Skar Audio VD-8 D4 shallow mount subwoofer (2). With the specs they have at $64 each, why the hell not?
Rockville RXD-M0 1200/600W RMS mono amplifier. Amazon purchase with the install kit combo for $100
Rockville RWK81 8 gauge installation kit
Polyfill (about 0.5 lbs total)
Everbilt 1.5" leg tips (4) with homemade posts bolted to factory rear seat bumper locations.
1.5" x 1.5" x 4" wood blocks painted black- raise rear seat hinge mounts for subwoofer clearance

Subwoofer Sealed Box dimensions: 21"L x 9"D x 0.75"H1, 2.5"H2 (front) made from 5/8" plywood, sprayed with bedliner
Center divider custom shaped to match contour of tire jack well.
bottom of box edges all have Frost King 1" expanding foam weatherstrip tape from Home Depot
The carpet floor was left as-is except for the flap going inside the well was rolled up inside itself to the front.
Speaker wire terminal choice to your discretion. I found mine on eBay to use banana clips I had.









[ I started out with one VD-8 in my clear lexan "test build" box. Sounded good but I wanted MORE, and the lexan flexed too much. I would advise not trying 2 subs unless you have a digital crossover and graphic equalizer to balance sound frequencies and resonance. The box volume fits a single VD-8 perfectly. But splitting that for 2 subs, and the Q factor pushes 1.0. Meaning, there becomes a minor resonance around 84 Hz. Setting the highpass/lowpass crossover points to 80 Hz with the sub polarity inverted, the resonance cancels itself out and the audio blend is wonderful. Just some technical info... ]

All wiring was run under carpeting. Audio wire ran under center console and power wire ran along passenger rail to firewall grommet on passenger side visible from engine bay next to the fuse blocks. Gotta keep the audio and power wires separated.
 

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Just cost me $0.08 in grease for the 45 seconds to refresh her front ball joints this morning. Something I neglected when I did my tire rotation and oil change few weeks ago. I’m such a BAD X-owner


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