Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So have an IMS spacer on the way. Planning to also do plugs.

Any others thoughts while I am at it? At 157k right now.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,813 Posts
The PCV valve is cheap and you'll already be disconnecting the hose from it. Maybe a catch can while you're at it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The PCV valve is cheap and you'll already be disconnecting the hose from it. Maybe a catch can while you're at it?
Wouldn't have thought about the PCV.

Have always thought about a catch can.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,309 Posts
your valve cover gaskets leaking? mine did at around 150k. you have to remove the manifold and plugs for that anyways.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Someone mentioned they did the #1 coil pack while they had the intake plenum off. I thought that was a pretty good idea because you know that'll be the one that fails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,813 Posts
Someone mentioned they did the #1 coil pack while they had the intake plenum off. I thought that was a pretty good idea because you know that'll be the one that fails.

A 10mm wrench with a ratcheting box end makes getting the screw that holds that coil pack in not all that hard. Still, if you want to start carrying a proven spare coil pack it would be the time to make the swap. Hitachi is the OEM brand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,309 Posts
What all did you have to pull to get at those?
basically the entire intake system and the plugs an coils. which youll basically already have to remove to do the plenum spacer and plugs. all you really have to do extra is remove the valve covers themselves, oh and the camshaft timing solenoids, they arent hard to remove their right up at the front of each cylinder bank, but you will need new gaskets for those, which are cheap and nissan had them for me.

it is a bit of a pita to reach the valve cover bolts on the rear of the heads, if they arent leaking them maybe its not worth it. mine were leaking pretty bad and the oil was dripping down on the the header heat shields and burning which caused a smell that bothered me. plus you know, burning oil in my engine bay wasnt exactly comforting either. esp if i found my self idling for a long time.

the hardest part was getting the vavle covers back on the engine with the new gaskets still where they should be, every time i turned the cover over to put it on the head the danm gasket would fall off and make me have to start over. I eventually got it but it was a pita.

buuut if you find yourself having to do this X miles down the road you may kick yourself for not doing it when you had the top end apart anyways.

so, I hope that helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,309 Posts
I think ry-the car guy on youtube has a vid of doing the valve covers. he has so many valuable X vids.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
basically the entire intake system and the plugs an coils. which youll basically already have to remove to do the plenum spacer and plugs. all you really have to do extra is remove the valve covers themselves, oh and the camshaft timing solenoids, they arent hard to remove their right up at the front of each cylinder bank, but you will need new gaskets for those, which are cheap and nissan had them for me.

it is a bit of a pita to reach the valve cover bolts on the rear of the heads, if they arent leaking them maybe its not worth it. mine were leaking pretty bad and the oil was dripping down on the the header heat shields and burning which caused a smell that bothered me. plus you know, burning oil in my engine bay wasnt exactly comforting either. esp if i found my self idling for a long time.

the hardest part was getting the vavle covers back on the engine with the new gaskets still where they should be, every time i turned the cover over to put it on the head the danm gasket would fall off and make me have to start over. I eventually got it but it was a pita.

buuut if you find yourself having to do this X miles down the road you may kick yourself for not doing it when you had the top end apart anyways.

so, I hope that helps!
Well in the middle of this right now. Saw no leaking from the valve cover gaskets so skipped buying them.

Pulled the passenger side rear plug to find oil in the tube... so looks like i am ordering valve covers and taking it all apart again when they come in...


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Clean out the intake maifold.

I used berrymans b-12 aerosol carb cleaner, took aroind two cans.
Just blast the cleaner from every possible angle and rotate the intake around to slosh the cleaner around, then dump it out.
Blue tape over various ports will gold the cleaner in while slosihing ot around.

You will be shocked at how much oil is going to come out.

You can also blast it down into the lower intake plenum to clean off the intake valves.

First startup will be tough, ot will cough and sputter, but will start.

You will also want to change oil afterwards as the cleaner will seep past the rings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Clean out the intake maifold.

I used berrymans b-12 aerosol carb cleaner, took aroind two cans.
Just blast the cleaner from every possible angle and rotate the intake around to slosh the cleaner around, then dump it out.
Blue tape over various ports will gold the cleaner in while slosihing ot around.

You will be shocked at how much oil is going to come out.

You can also blast it down into the lower intake plenum to clean off the intake valves.

First startup will be tough, ot will cough and sputter, but will start.

You will also want to change oil afterwards as the cleaner will seep past the rings.
Good advice. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Already said but I did my sparks with the IMS and put a new intake gasket on.
Enjoy the added throttle response and grrrrowl.
Yeah I could tell a difference in how it ran. It feels like it did before I put 33's on.

It might be in my head but it seems quieter to me... Might be at a bit lower RPM to get the same speed.

IMS, DT Long Tubes, CAI, 2.5" Ext Travel Rads W/ PRG UCA's, 33's, AAL, Rear bumper (tire carrier waiting in the garage) and and off road camping trailer.... Didn't realize all that would happen when I bought an X. Maybe I need a build thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Does anyone have a recommendation on what site to buy the valve cover from? Prices seem to be all over the place when I search. and some sites are not specifying diver or passenger side. I am assuming they are specific to a side. My driver side seemed good, no leaks anywhere. Guess I could still replace it while I was at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
I know its an older thread, but I wanted to paste this post I made replying to a YouTube video in case the info in it can help someone down the road that searches and finds this thread:

I suggest you buy an entire new valve cover from Nissan. They are only $35 each from Courtesy Nissan online. Why? The valve covers themselves have 3 rubber gaskets that part of the valve cover that seal up your spark plug wells (those tubes that you slide your spark plugs down into). Those spark plug well gaskets fail and leak oil into the spark plug well filling it up. That oil seeps past the threads of the spark plug (no, I'm not kidding) and into the cylinder where it fouls your plug and the burned oil does not do your catalytic converter any favors. That gasket is NOT serviceable, it is part of the valve cover. Do a search on thenewx.org and you will see it is a common problem. Usually the spark plug well closest to the firewall. My driver side failed and started leaking oil into the well around 130,000 miles, and the passenger side started around 160,000. I would replace that entire cover while you have it all apart. They are part number 13264-EA200 and 13264-EA210. Something I want to add here......I've always used Permatex Ultra Black RTV for something like this. BUT....When I was doing this job last summer, I noticed Permatex® Ultra Synthetic Gasket Maker......Advanced formula RTV Gasket Maker designed specifically for resistance to unique synthetic motor oil chemical properties. Prevents leak paths commonly associated with synthetic motor oils. Recommended for close tolerances and high performance parts. Temperatures up to 500° F Intermittent. Import/Domestic compatible. https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/ Since I run synthetic oil, I was glad to stumble onto this product.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top