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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could someone wiser than I tell me how to properly tighten a valve cover bolt?
I broke one bolt on my wife’s rogue a few years back after trying to torque to the required value. It was a headache for sure

I see in the Haynes manual it says 74”/lbs

is it better to hand tighten plus 1/4 turn vs trying to achieve the specified torque value? I really don’t want to snap one of these things.
 

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2006 Off-road, ADO 2" HD lift, Grabbers
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Just like Brunnie said.
You need to torque to 7 ft lbs, close to 74 inch lbs.

Valve cover bolts are like most small bolts, hand tightening will even put you over the torque spec.
I like to use the old German torque wrench on these, Good-en-tight 🤣. Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes,
inch = “
Foot = ‘

I realize the difference
When I broke a valve cover bolt on the rogue, I used an inch/lb (“) torque wrench, and it still broke. Probably a shitty wrench but idk

i was more wondering if anyone actually follows that guideline of 74” (inch)/lbs or just finger tight + a quarter turn.

i mainly stick to given book torque values where possible. Wondering jf this is a case where you don’t go for that value because of the risk of breaking
 

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2006 Off-road, ADO 2" HD lift, Grabbers
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It kinda depends on how long you have been wrenching, for how comfortable you feel with out using a torque wrench.

It is hard to brake stuff if you follow the FSM specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’d say I’m a medium experienced wrencher. I do try and do almost everything at home. But that broken bolt on my wife’s rogue on a Sunday was stupid. So I’m gun shy.

I just ordered a digital torque wrench in inch lbs. Surprisingly will be here today.

I’m going to test it on a different bolt against my mechanical torque wrench just to see.
Will try the low end of the values and maybe just go by hand afterwards.
 

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I've played games with my friends using a digital torque wrench with a memory feature.

Basically, we would choose a torque setting we wanted to achieve and each of us would take a turn to see who was the closest without looking at the digital readout or audible notifications.

Take for granted there was a mix of full time mechanics and weekend wrenchers among us.

The truth is most everyone over torqued by several foot/lbs.
 
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Could someone tell me how to properly tighten a valve cover bolt?
Even more important is to remove all traces of the old gasket and any sealer from both mating surfaces. A little gas on a rag should do, or if something is baked on there, a straight-edge razor or a sharp wood chisel will cut right through it. Try to minimize what drops inside, obviously.
Clean out the sludge in the hose nipples and fill cap, if any.
Start with the middle bolts and tighten in a X pattern out to the ends.

I suggest you power wash the engine and engine bay at a self serve car wash before you start. That will remove most of the loose sand and make the whole job cleaner and easier. I use soap mode and rinse with 'wax'
 

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7 ft lbs is very little. My guess is a cheap 1/2 inch torque wrench is very poorly calibrated at the lower levels. Digital or not, you likely want a fairly small torque wrench for these sort of things - 3/8 at largest, 1/4 inch would be even better.
 

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I take the socket and extension and initially run them down with my fingers, X-pattern and center outward. Then I'll put the 1/4" drive ratchet on it and will snug them down using the same pattern. Then I'll do the final torque with a Snap-On 1/4" drive, inch/pound torque wrench. Never broke a valve cover bolt, yet...knock on wood!
 

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Did them. Didn't torque them. They are shoulder bolts so there's really no over compressing anything. Its just tight enough to not come loose. So I put them in just what felt right. no leaks a year or so later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
So I replaced both valve covers, and added an intake spacer while I was in there. Let dry overnight, did the idle relearn and she fired right up. Beautiful idle and seemingly no problems.
When I shut it off, the oil leak started. Lol.
Yeah, ruined my day.
it was the passenger side Downhill rearward corner. Torque was fine, so inevitably the decision was made to re do it.
Was tempted to torque more, but that’s dumb

what happened was the gasket likely got pinched or laid flat in that corner and we didn’t catch it. There’s a rubber rectangular tab near there that’s part of the gasket, that looked a little cocked. A clue if you will

So we re do it, lay the valve cover on dry fit. Inspect and damn if it didn’t do it again. Pull the cover off, dry fit, inspect, and got it looking good finally. Rtv only had 12-14 hours to set up, but I had to go to work

went to work this morning with no leak detected, yet. Don’t think I’ll feel confident until a day or two

Was defeating for sure as we were just about to get into some cigars.
Another time
 
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