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Hey y'all!

I recently purchased a 2010 xterra and I'm looking to upgrade the stock stereo and speakers. I'm just curious what size and wattage speakers would be best for the vehicle. I'm currently looking at a package that includes four 50 watt 6.5"speakers. Having trouble locating any info elsewhere online.
Thanks in advance!
 

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First you'll need to determine if you have the basic stereo or the Rockford Fosgate stereo. I just replaced the speakers and head unit in our 2005 Xterra and the head unit in our 2008 xterra. Both were pretty easy. Took me about an hour to do all 4 speakers earlier today. The front speakers are 6x9's and the rears are 6.5". There are tweeters up in the dash, but they are a little more difficult to replace so I left mine alone. Check out Crutchfield - they'll give you all the wiring diagrams and adapters and will also narrow everything down to what fits your truck.

I went with Kicker 43DSC69304's up front (6x9s 90watt RMS) and Kicker 43DSC6704's in the back (6.75" 60 watts RMS) and a Kenwood DDX9705 head unit. No amp or subs. Sounds great and has just enough low end to keep me happy.
 

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The fronts are 6x9 and rear are 6 1/2 inch speakers, in the doors.
When I upgraded my 2007, I bought the speakers, amp, and head unit.
Then years later a head unit that supported HDMI, that was around 2014.

In 2015 my X met a horse and neither made it out alive. Along came 2015 Pro 4X, but while the stereo was nice, it wasn't what I was used to. Aftermarket setup can really make things come alive, music or videos.
So I had all my electronics taken out and put into the new Xterra.

If your speakers were blown and that's why you are replacing them, then something from Amazon or Ebay may do, especially if a friend is replacing them.
If you want to make an upgrade, speakers alone will not be enough.
It has to be a co-operation of
1) amplifier which can provide enough power
2) speakers which can handle that power
3) headunit to make the experience enjoyable - The power of the head unit is not important because what it needs instead is to allow for bypass, so that it's the amplifier that provides all the power to the speakers, not the head unit.

In any specs there will be marketing numbers for RMS power and peak power......... but the more you pay is the more you get in a nutshell, good stuff costs.

A good place will take their time to explain things, I prefer non-chain stores, after bad experiences over the years with Express Audio.....

Here is what I would do if I was buying again. I would do research and find an amplifier, then find the speakers, then try to get them on Amazon or Ebay, new.

Here is what I have:
JL AUDIO HD600/4 Car Amplifier 4 Channel 600W HD Speaker Amp Class D 600/4 - I would get the Marine version next time if something goes funny with my current one, but Marine version costs more, and I don't think you'll be putting your amp into the engine bay

Speakers - Hybrid Audio - I think fronts are Legatia, rear is Unity
But either one would do. My rears are not connected because all the power is going into the fronts, so called bridged, so that I get more volume and can hear them at 80mph with open windows. Probably not your situation, but still the amp has enough power to drive 4 good speakers (2 speakers in my case)

I also have a custom subwoofer built into the rear right inside gap. It was built in 2007 for my 2007 Xterra with Fiberglass, cost $750 then because it was custom........ and then it has its own amplifier, independent of the other 4 channel amplifier....... but it barely shakes the side mirrors, the size of the subwoofer box here is not deep enough for deep base that shatters house glass, but it's noticeable inside the car at least.

Head unit - Pioneer NEX 4000.... there has been 4100 and 4500 since then

125234


Blue highlights the carpeted subwoofer box...
125233

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(for my choice, not everyone's ) The least expensive, yet great setup:
$600 speakers....... 6 1/2", pair
$600 amplifier for 4 channels
$500 Pioneer NEX 4500 headunit - handles HDMI input, is double din, touchscreen
I had touchscreen double din screens since 2007, so I only like those now

Where to buy:
Smaller sized car audio place with a great set of reviews on Yelp, etc

In my case, after a bad experience at a similarly setup place, the right place was a 2 man shop where the salesman is also the technician/installer/cashier, and while it feels I overpay each time, I know what gets done will not have to be fixed or redone. So when my 2015 X came along and I had to have stereo work done 1,000 miles from home, that experience has demonstrated about 5 times since then how things were not done right. To begin with, it took them 1 week to re-install stereo/alarm from one X to another. They scratched the plastic in 20 places on my brand new car's side panels. And some things were broken which caused issues down the road.

The 2007 Xterra work was done at a place like Best Buy (the actual company went out of business eventually, but they have 20+ locations across the country), and it was good work by them, but there was a disconnect between the salesman selling and installers installing, disconnect as far as advice of what to get.

I will be keeping my X for a very long time, it's a daily driver, and for a very long time the stereo upgrade was the first and only Xterra upgrade (all 9 years with first X, and first 3 years with second X) -- so I wanted to get great sound.

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Short summary:
amplifier + speakers work together. The weak point will pull down the quality. IF you use a great amp with paper speaker membranes, you may blow them if you play it loud. If your great speakers don't get enough power, they won't sound better than stocks.

head unit should allow all power to come from the amp, none from the head unit
 

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If you want to go super bottom dollar, I am selling my 2015 Pro 4X speakers which are 6x9, fit Xterras 2005+
They came out at mile 200 back in 2015, and have been waiting to be sold since then.

Any power coming from the head unit will be limited to "50 Watts per channel", which is a marketing number and could be RMS or Peak, no matter what they say, meaning that the Watts power of a head unit can be inflated. If you really want 50 Watts, get an amp that costs $200+ and you read that people have good experience with it.

Power - it needs a large surface area, gets hot (but shouldn't get super hot), and there is just no room inside of the head unit. So a $50 head unit with a $200+ amp will sound way better than a $500 head unit without an amp.

Skimp out on speakers if you want to get it all without spending on every item. If the speakers blow, well don't play it so that they will blow.

If you're maxing out the scale... usually at Level 40 (max) because you want it louder, that means you don't have enough power to drive your speakers. I am at 12 on side roads, and I get into 30s at 80mph with lower quality input (not Sirious XM). With just music probably I am around 25 on the scale of 40.
 

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And about the speakers you listed, 6 1/2" speakers is the back size. The fronts are 6x9 inch.
The 6 1/2" could fit into a 6x9 space with a custom "box" which some places charge $200 for, for the pair, which seams overpriced, but there may be commercially available "fit 6 1/2 into 6x9" boxes. The $200 ones are "custom built".

And there are many more 6 1/2" choices than 6x9, both on low ends and high ends of cost.
 

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The biggest limitation in the stock setup is the stereo (aka head unit). The stock speakers are "okay" with a good quality aftermarket head unit. Do that first, get all the nice things nissan decided you didn't need like an "aux in" jack, maybe Apple Carplay, and then decide if you want to upgrade the speakers. I assume you do not have the Rockford Fosgate system because it sounds pretty good stock.
 
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