Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Update 10/18/2013

Sometimes I realize after nights like this why I hate working on the truck.

Anyway, placed an order with RockAuto couple nights back; ordered BECK/ARNLEY Wheel Hub Assembly. Came in the mail by FedEx and was quickly to work at 5:30 Pm . I had already spent the previous night setting the truck on Jacks, removing the tire and removing the 32 mm Hub nut, laying out tools and loosening the Torque Member Bolt(s)(removed the lower one)

I planned on removing the Hub Assembly by NOT removing the UCA, I succeeded but MY FREAKIN GOD, why does it have to be so difficult/annoying and just plain stupid :tard:

(HOLD for other other update...I'll explain in the future the tool I needed to make....)


I finally got the damn hub off and cleaned up the parts; luckily my axle was smooth within the spline but the hub shell was such a PITA) I used wire brush, Pb blaster and cleaned up the surfaces in the surrounding area. Got the new hub on after a good cleaning and some lube in a couple of areas.

I torqued down all the bolts I removed to spec.

2X Torque Member Bolt - 135 ft-lbs ea'
4X Hub Assembly Bolt - 44 ft-lbs ea'
1X Center Hub Nut - 32mm- 101 ft-lbs
6x Wheel Nut - 96 ft-lbs ea'





I have the slightest wiggle...:mad::scratch:

Cause?...

- The bearings in the Hub Assembly are moving (not a true OEM part) as I did not go with Timken Bearings.

- Something else has started to break down; been driving on this issue for probably a couple weeks not thinking it was the bearings.

- Axle Nut not providing the needed pre-load on the bearings?




So after all that bull****, still have some wiggle after replacing it.





_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Hey everyone, in August I became the latest victim to SMOD:mad: The Dealership however had replaced the rad/transmission :drink: Onto my issue though...

I have 2006 with just over 80k miles to it.

I am getting this intermittent "thud" when slightly turning the wheel left. I'm not sure if it really goes completely away driving straight or turning right but I certainly can't make it out nearly/at all compared to turning left. It's easy to hear driving slow and the loud road noise/wind might combat @ higher speeds from allowing me to hear it.

I can also feel it in the floor with my foot, but I can't tell if it's driver or passenger side.

Brakes were done Summer of 2012; Differential fluids were replaced with Amsoil in April of 2012.



I will 100% jack the car up tonight on both sides and check for wiggle on the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock; until then...I have to research or get Ideas from others.
- I already have scoped out the bearing hub assembly if I need it.

Maybe some joints needs some oiling? I don't know, but I don't like it.


I also got under the truck two days ago and could't catch anything that was obvious.



Any input would be great here from any past experiences. :salute:

Thanks,

-Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Check the sway bar endlinks & bushings. They will produce a similar sound when they are loose or worn.
Would this be what i'm looking for if a replcement is needed?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1282898&cc=1433009

What's the quick and dirty way of checking them? For the Hub test, I can do 6 and 12 o'clock.

Can I clock the wheel at a different point that would determine bushings and/or endlinks?


Gotta get this figured out so I can order some parts if need be.

Thanks guys,

-Jason
 

·
on line
Joined
·
1,446 Posts
Would this be what i'm looking for if a replcement is needed?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1282898&cc=1433009

What's the quick and dirty way of checking them?
I have a friend violently rock/bounce the front end (side to side). You can tell pretty quickly which side is going/gone cause the clunk will be heard. Once you know which side, you can visually & audibly locate which part is making the clunk.

I have a SW front bumper so it's easy for the assistant to grab the light hoop and start rocking the X. If you're OEM, have someone open the front door, stand on the door sill and grab the rack and start rocking.

I've used this method 3 times. 2 of those times, the upper nut from the link to the sway bar had backed off causing the stud to move within the bar opening. The last time, the joint on the upper link was bad.

If it is an end link, I'd be wagering that it is the driver's side...links & bushings tend to thud/clunk when the weight is removed from them (unloaded).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
100% passenger side hub-assembly. Jacked the side up and instantly saw my wheel drop. Went to go grab it and there is so much play, bearing is shot :violent1:

Question now is; and I'd like to order it tonight. I'd love to do both at the same time, but I have spent sooooo much money the past couple of months I need to save.

I can only replace this side; I want to choose something good but not spend the extra $ if I really don't need to.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4287330&cc=1433009
Well priced @ $76.79

Thoughts?

-Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
I just ordered the Timkins hub assembly. I ordered it yesterday and it was on my doorstep when I got home from work today. The Timkni was a bit more pricey but I like quality of their product and i do a bit of wheeling so I just felt better about the Timkin. Any of the ones listed with Rock will do I am sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sky- I hear ya, obviously Timken makes high quality bearings and well probably the superior of the two. Having said that, I don't wheel...so it should be a fine replacement.

I was going to go with the lowest priced one but settled for the last one posted. Hopefully I can install it tomorrow if of course it comes in on time.


I guess I need to start PB'ing the bolts...

Thanks all,

-Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Fwiw, the factory OEM ones are also Timken.
Posted via Mobile Device
Ah well, you live and learn...made a mistake not going with Timken but hopefully i'll be ok here.


I know why the bearing failed; was it premature...abused, well that's up for discussion.

To sum it up, when I park on the street at my place, I come in on Angle that requires my right passenger tire to ride up the curb. I come off the curb and essentially slam my tire onto the street. This is what did it...

-Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I still have some movement, I feel has if the axle nut torqued did not provide the pre-load on the bearings I need? Thoughts on this...?
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top