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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I brought a used 2008 Xterra S and I noticed there is no sticker or anything on the top of the radiator. Looks like there used to be a sticker on the driver’s side on the top of the radiator right next to where the plastic type is molded in (PA66-GF 30).
I’ve searched online and in the various Xterra and Nissan forums out there and can’t find out if there is any way to ID the radiator without the sticker on top.
I’d really like to know before I go to the trouble to remove the shroud to try and find it.
Please don’t refer me to the thread with the calsonic part numbers associated with smod. I’ve already looked there.
 

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2006 Xterra SE
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PA66-GF 30 is just the material code, glass reinforced plastic. tons of parts are stamped with that. But that spot where the sticker used to be is where the calsonic stick is. If this 2008 X is new to you and it's still bypassed, odds are it's the Calsonic.
Change it and be done with it.

If the tranny is slipping when cold, check the fluid level, might be low, or need a change.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
PA66-GF 30 is just the material code, glass reinforced plastic. tons of parts are stamped with that. But that spot where the sticker used to be is where the calsonic stick is. If this 2008 X is new to you and it's still bypassed, odds are it's the Calsonic.
Change it and be done with it.

If the tranny is slipping when cold, check the fluid level, might be low, or need a change.
Thanks for the replies!

By “plastic type” I should have said “type of plastic code”. First thing that I found out during my searches.

I did the bypass not long after I got it just to be safe.

Looks like I’m doing the PMF.
I saw a post mention someone from cherry hill Nissan has decently priced matic S. Trans dipstick says matic J of course but from what I’ve seen it looks like S is a replacement for J.
 

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I use the S

However there are some which swear by Valvoline Maxlife ATF.

Probably safe either way
 

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Any brand full synthetic Dex/Merc type ATF labeled as compatible with Nissan Matic S will work in the Xterra automatic transmission. Be sure that the label specifically mentions Nissan Matic S and you will be fine.

ATF labeled as compatible with Nissan S used to be difficult to find but is now available on the shelves in most chain auto parts stores. For example, O'Reilly Global Multi-Vehicle synthetic ATF is fully compatible with and an acceptable replacement for Nissan Matic S. So is Castrol Transmax Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF. There are many others.

I have used Valvoline Maxlife ATF for many years.

__
Note:

In 2017 I had an external transmission line failure in the middle of nowhere Nevada en route home from goneMOAB. I lost 7 qts. of ATF. The only ATF available within 100 miles was ordinary Dex/Merc III so that is what I used. I drove another 1,000 miles before I drained and refilled with full synthetic ATF. Three years have passed since then and many 10,000's of miles, including a 4,200 mile overlanding trip to Cabo San Lucas, and there have been no adverse results from using that ordinary Dex/Merc ATF three years ago.

Nissan Matic J was nothing more than synthetic blend Dex/Merc ATF.
Nissan Matic S is simply full synthetic Dex/Merc ATF that meets the Japanese JASO-1A standard. Nothing special about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cool. I just saw Valvoline Max Life ATF for $17.97 at Wally World. ????
 

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I just got a 2008 S as well and am trying to figure out the same thing. Mine does not have a sticker on top and it does not have a molded number either. I'm trying to determine if it's an aftermarket one. Here's a picture, can anybody confirm this is not a Nissan part given the lack of identifiers on the top? I know, I know, for $150 just go get a new Koyo and I will do that if I can't figure out what's in my Xterra.
128538
 

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How many miles? I don't see many rads doing a good job past 150k, 10 years because of corrosion and plugging internal as well as external. Could run a fiber optic viewer inside to examine. Has it ever been chemically cleaned? Most cleaners now are a form of citric acid.
 

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How many miles? I don't see many rads doing a good job past 150k, 10 years because of corrosion and plugging internal as well as external. Could run a fiber optic viewer inside to examine. Has it ever been chemically cleaned? Most cleaners now are a form of citric acid.
The truck has 158k miles, but I've no idea about the radiator as it may be a replacement. I just got the car less than 2 weeks ago, so I can't say if it's been cleaned or not. These are valid questions that seem to add to the argument just to replace it to be certain.
 

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I think it is a replacement. Found my original from 06 and it has a molded plate with Nissan corp. molded into just to the right of a sticker
128550
20200714_141909_HDR.jpg
 

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Looks different than my OEM unit. Of course mine is an '11.. but still
 

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The plastic tanks and seals on these new composite rad's start to get brittle and dried up after about 10 years. I am thinking about replacing both of mine and saving myself the trouble of having them fail at an inconvenient time.
 

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The plastic tanks and seals on these new composite rad's start to get brittle and dried up after about 10 years. I am thinking about replacing both of mine and saving myself the trouble of having them fail at an inconvenient time.
So on that time line would one also do the hoses? I did when I changed out the rad. Labor and inconvenience on the road pretty much negated IMO
 

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So on that time line would one also do the hoses? I did when I changed out the rad. Labor and inconvenience on the road pretty much negated IMO
I changed out all my hoses about a year ago (except that pesky one in the manifold that I need to get to). There is about 15 of them - bypass hoses, heater hoses, degas bottle hoses, etc. There is a thread around here with all the part numbers, some guys went silicone. 2005 Hose List for Complete Hose Change Out

If your not keen to do all, at least change the plastic T''s by the heater core. There known to fail early.

I also changed the vacuum hoses on top the engine.

I need to get a PCV hose still ...
 

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FYI -

There is Nissan service literature that I can no longer find that calls for Xterra radiator replacement at 120,000 miles. However, there is no reference to that interval in the Factory Service Manual. Such a service interval would be consistent with radiator plastics becoming brittle due to heat cycling and the flow through the cooling tubes being impaired by mineral deposits that cannot be removed with consumer oriented flushes.

If I were in the position of @Tank99 or @DesmosDromos with a high mileage Xterra I would seriously consider replacing the radiator with a quality direct fit replacement.

Typically, I like to change the hoses, thermostat and radiator caps ( both radiator and de-gas bottle) at the same time, but the water pump on an Xterra is too much extra work to replace "just in case" so I would leave it alone unless it is showing signs that it should be replaced.

Although radiator replacement isn't a difficult job, it is time consuming so I see little point in using bargain basement or store brand parts that all but guarantee having to do the job twice. I used a Koyo radiator and OEM Nissan hoses, etc. when I changed my radiator.


BTW, there is a post above suggesting that the design changes to the factory Calsonic radiator might be visible in an inspection. They are not. All changes were internal and the only way to differentiate the good ones from the bad ones is by part number.
 

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FYI -



but the water pump on an Xterra is too much extra work to replace "just in case" so I would leave it alone unless it is showing signs that it should be replaced.
FWIW I changed my water pump around 220K miles when doing the timing chains and there was zero play in it at all. I know this is anecdotal but I think it confirms Mr. Bills advice above.
 
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