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Intro Comments: Doesn't look a whole lot different but a lot of work was done...

Username:
ugacdawg

Year: 2005
Make: Nissan
Model: Xterra
Trim: S
Color: Granite

Trans: Auto

MODS

Tires/Suspention:
285/75/16 BFG T/A
Stealth-ed 2005 S Factory Rims
Deaver AAL Rear w/ Calmini Shackles
5125 Bilsteins Rear Shocks
2" Calmini Spacers in Front

Powertrain/Driveline:
Magnaflow Custom Exhaust
Pre-Runner Secondard Cat Delete B-Pipes
Volant Cold-Air Intake
Rear Differential Breather Mod

Armor:
Hefty Rear Bumper w/ Tire Carrier
AC Rear Differential Skid

Interior:
The Rev light Mod (Killing this... not a fan)
Raingler Small Ceiling Net
Xterra First-Aid Kit
Maglite Mount w/ Flashlight

Audio:
JL Audio Stealthbox 12" Subwoofer
Kicker 40CS654 6.5" Coaxial (Rear Doors)
Kicker 40CSS654 6.5" Component (Front Doors/Dash)
Kicker ZX700.5 5-Channel 750 watt Amplifier

Exterior:
Xoskel Lo-Pro Light Bar w/ 4x 6" Daylighters
PIAA Horns
Gobi Ladder
Dephep Rack

Recovery gear:
N/A

PHOTOS

This is a pick of the truck from So Florida before it was sent to me.


These were taken lately after most of the initial work - including rewiring all the lights and painting all the bumpers, roof rack and shackles, etc.:


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Calling this a 'discovery' since I bought a used 2005 with about 115,000 miles on it that appears to have been previously owned by two other members here on the forum but I continue to 'discover' new things that need to be updated or fixed. The dealer kind of hosed me, there was no mention of the grinding front wheel, the SES light for a cat problem, the malfunctioning oil pressure gauge or dents/gouging in the description. Well, I've bought about 6 cars now on eBay and this one is the worst I've been misled with. As long as I don't get SMOD I can deal with the rest of the issues I guess.

However, since I could not get either of them reaching out I had to assume the worst for the car when it came to maintenance. I was glad to see that the transmission fluid and the coolant looked great though (the bypass had been done, not sure when). Also, the entire engine was covered in mud, including a lot INSIDE the Volant CAI...





And, the light bar isn't working, the roof rack bolts are either frozen or spinning (at least 8 of them) and the wiring in the engine bay for the lights is a little wonky, etc. There are a few gouges from what I assume are rocks and the sliders appear to have only been mounted with a couple of bolts on each side. So, I continue to 'discover' new projects that need doing. There are a least 20+ missing screws and tabs in the plastic of the front bumper and the wheel well plastics and there is a hole in the lower center console where it appears someone drilled out a spot for some CB equipment, etc. So I keep discovering things that will need some work.





And for some reason there are a few spots in the engine where someone apparently spray painted silver but I cannot determine why...



So I set off to do a little maintenance - the engine first though. I've started off doing the following (which I'm still in progress with...):

Replaced:
  • Radiator (to return to original fluid flow without bypass) (and hoses now too)
  • PCV valve
  • MAF sensor (the old one was covered entirely with mud from the inside of the intake)
  • All timing chains and sliders
  • Water pump
  • Alternator
  • Spark Plugs
  • Oil Pressure Sending Unit
  • Brake Rotors and Pads (including emergency pads)
  • Cabin Air Filter
  • New Battery
  • Front Right and Left Catalytic Converters



UPDATE: I just found out that my oil pressure sending unit is bad too... and the right front wheel bearing is trashed... so adding that to the list of fixes to do...
 

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Maybe putting in a new radiator like a Koyo or Griffin? Looks like he has everything off to install a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe putting in a new radiator like a Koyo or Griffin? Looks like he has everything off to install a new one.
Yeah, I'm putting on a new radiator - its a Spectra model. The reason to go back to the original cooling method is that at low speeds the radiator helps to cool the transmission fluid without the need to add an additional fan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So, I discovered a few more things that had to be done now...

First, got the whole truck back together and the engine actually runs really well, however it threw an SES light and my reader says its the P0420 which is the passenger side catalytic converter.

This thing is becoming quite the money pit. I cleared it but its now showing 'pending' again. Anyone know if you can clear emissions in GA if the SES light is not on but the code is 'pending' in the computer? I tried to find out today but the shop was close.

I guess I should have spent the extra $30 to replace the radiator hoses when replacing the radiator because I got home today from the run up to the emissions station I saw the car was draining coolant pretty fast from underneath. I freaked out until I pulled enough stuff off to see its the hose coming off the thermostat - apparently it won't seal right anymore - hoping its just too old so I'm replacing it tomorrow.

I've got less than 100 miles on this thing since buying it and I'm shoveling money into it... hoping this isn't going to continue...
 

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Once you get all of the initial issues fixed it should be fairly reliable for you. How did you determine that your oil pressure sending unit was bad, and how easy of a fix was it? I think that I may be having that issue right now.
 

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The oil sending unit in the 05 will stay pegged all the way to high if it fails. You can tell its gone bad because it shoots to high when you put the key in and truck isn't even on.

$80 part, pretty easy swap on the side of the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The oil sending unit in the 05 will stay pegged all the way to high if it fails. You can tell its gone bad because it shoots to high when you put the key in and truck isn't even on.
That's exactly how I could tell - I turn the key to 'on' but before I even crank it the oil pressure shoots the moon and never moves again.

Freaked me out the first time I saw it but was just a sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Once you get all of the initial issues fixed it should be fairly reliable for you. How did you determine that your oil pressure sending unit was bad, and how easy of a fix was it? I think that I may be having that issue right now.
Well, I finally got around to fixing the oil pressure sending unit - I should have done it a long time ago - easy and the result was awesome, not only is the gauge working again but it cured my startup rattle! The unit had failed so bad it was leaking into the electrical harness and wasn't creating a seal anymore causing the oil to drain from the chain tensioners... anyway it took 10 minutes total to do.


UPDATE: No luck, just a temporary fix... still rattling on startup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Upgraded the audio finally... the factory sound was terrible... replaced all four (six) speakers and wired up the JL Audio stealthbox sub. Still running the factory head unit off a line converter but it sounds great with a CD in... will sound even better with a new head unit eventually!







 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finally got around to replacing the secondary cats when I had to replace the primary cats. This is the old vs the new. Definitely louder... but with the new sound system I don't even notice...

 

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Looks nice - I'm considering some very similar exterior mods as well (light bar(s), relocate the spare, refinish the plastic). Thanks for sharing.
 
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