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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
swapped out the stock OR roof light out with an OTRATTW switch. was able to get the light to switch on and off exactly like the stock switch did.

when I went to push the switch through and confirm all the wire placements, ( and insulate them with heat shrink ) for some odd reason the OR lights won't turn on.

No Power going to the wires up to the switch. Does anybody know where the fuse for these lights are, the FSM doesn't indicate a fuse.

Edit:

fixed the whole problem. as per NUTSgoWEEE's request I am updating the this post with the proper pin placement for a SPST momentary switch:
Here is the wiring for the momentary switch you posted a link to:




So the ONLY wires we want to hook up are to terminal 2 and 3 for right now.

2- RED
3- BLACK

Don't connect anything else yet and try this out. It should work exactly like the stock switch. Press once to turn the lights on, press again to turn them off.

If that works, try this for the illumination

/unchanged/
2- RED
3- BLACK
/unchanged/

7- BROWN
8- PURPLE (this is the one I'm unsure about)
9- BLACK
10 - WHITE/GREY (slightly unsure because the FSM has WHITE/RED here)

This should give the upper LED the same operation as the rest of the dash, and the lower LED should be on whenever the roof lights are on.
 

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Alright you got me curious so I started poking around. Looked at the 2008 FSM and on page EXL-42, the cover sensor fuse is in fuse box (J/B) which is the one in the glove box and is fuse 12. Went out to look at the panel and there's nothing that says off road cover sensor. Pull the bottom right fuse and see if that one is blown (on the panel it says it's for "Electronic Parts"). Also check fuse 1 and 2 which are the bottom two in the left column.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Those 3 fuses are still good. Found one that was out deep in the IDPM replaced that one. The switch turns on ( work opposite of the dimmer on the dash. Turn the dimmer switch down light gets brighter and vice versa ) but no or light activation


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I don't think I have any more not useful information to offer for your other troubleshooting. But for the dimmer function on the switch, it sounds like you put the dimmer wire on the positive (pin 8?) and ground on negative (pin 7?). The dimmer wire should be on what would normally be the ground on the OTRATTW switch (pin 7?) and pin 8 should be your positive.
 

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If your dimmer is acting opposite of what the rest of the switches are doing and it is an LED switch, your dimmer wires are backwards.

Also hopefully you are using a switch with independently wired LEDs and not trying to power or ground any of your relays with the dimming wires - that would most likely blow a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok kind of a coincidence, but I can now have my Stock OR lights on with out the high beams being on. Figured out that I might of fried the switch that I was trying to use. ( it was a SPST Momentary from OTRATTW V-Series rocker switch, body only, no rocker ) now I am using a SPST rocker ( again from OTRATTW : V-Series Sealed Contura II rocker switch, Roof Lights ) and it's like doing the whole bypass but with out having to add relays or other fuses. seams to work fine, and not blowing any of the other fuses. can somebody that has done the OR light Bypass (http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65029 ) throw in their 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not sure I understand your question. The link I put up on that thread does require a few relays(I think I have 7 for the ORL's). I wanted to retain the stock switch though.

Any chance you could clarify your question?
by adding a SPST rocker switch ( linked above) I can now turn on the OR lights without having to have my high beams on. that being said. in that how to linked above as well people have added relays. my question is do I risk overloading any circuits by keeping it the way that I have it right now.
 

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Alright. I haven't looked into the otrawttw method yet.

The method I did I have used them for about 45 minutes in a one hour time frame with no issues. The amp draw that is through those relays is very minimal and it's just controlling ground
 

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I highly doubt you fried your switch, you just have it connected wrong.

Those two switches you posted are different internally, just because they are both SPST does not mean they have the same operation or pinout. If you post up a diagram or list of what pins you are connecting to what I can help you, otherwise I am just guessing at what you did.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can you post up how you wired your current switch?


Pin 2- Purple wire
Pin 3- White with grey stipes
Pin 6- Black
Pin 7- Black
Pin 8- Brown

and there is going to be a red wire that is not used.

Lights turn on with out the engine running, and with the park lights or with the normal head lights. but stay off when the driving lights are off
 

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by adding a SPST rocker switch ( linked above) I can now turn on the OR lights without having to have my high beams on. that being said. in that how to linked above as well people have added relays. my question is do I risk overloading any circuits by keeping it the way that I have it right now.
Wait, this doesn't make any since at all. All you did was change the switch and they work anytime? You sure your high beams were not on?

Did you add any additional wires from stock?
 

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I have to dig deeper into the manual to get the wiring colors but from a quick glance if you are able to turn on the lights with high beams on your are bypassing the relay and powering the lights through the switch itself which is probably a bad idea. I am just not sure how you not blowing a fuse or where the power is coming from.

You should stop messing with the wires before you fry the BCM and figure out the proper way to wire it then go.
 

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Yes - according to the FSM, the RED wire sends the signal to the BCM to turn on or off the lights. If you are not using the RED wire, you are certainly doing it wrong.

You're powering the lights through the wire meant for the indicator and bypassing the relay... very bad idea since that wire is probably not meant to carry 10+ amps for the lights. What gauge wire is the White/Red (or White/Gray in your case... maybe canadian version?)

EDIT - also there is no purple wire in the FSM... so I'm not sure how much I can help without the Canadian wiring diagrams. But it appears to me you are powering the lights directly from the purple wire... wherever that is coming from. Did you replace that blown fuse with the same size fuse or something larger? That's the only thing I can think of right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
your telling me it doesn't make sense.
here is a pic of the parking lights only ( this is a Canadian X so we have Daytime Running lights)
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Normal lights on (fog lights, driving lights, and OR lights)
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High Beams on
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I am planning on getting some better pics or maybe even a video tomorrow when there is more daylight
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes - according to the FSM, the RED wire sends the signal to the BCM to turn on or off the lights. If you are not using the RED wire, you are certainly doing it wrong.

You're powering the lights through the wire meant for the indicator and bypassing the relay... very bad idea since that wire is probably not meant to carry 10+ amps for the lights. What gauge wire is the White/Red (or White/Gray in your case... maybe canadian version?)
ok well then I guess I will be messing around with that switch again tomorrow after rescue and I swap out my rear leaf springs for a set of OME ( different thread)
 
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