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Agreed, love the stance.
Thanks Rob! I'm thrilled with how it turned out. Exactly what I was going for. I just hope the front and rear settle about the same amount so it stays that way.
 

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Well the suspension and gears are done. Still waiting on bumpers and plates as well as tires. Build page and pics still to be completed.... I just don't have time right now.

I have spotted an issue though and would like feedback.

I fitted 2.5 Radflo with RR. The Right Rear banjo bolt is awfully close to the body. Without body lift, has anyone had contact between body and bolt over rough terrain?
 

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Ok folks, technical problem with CV joints. First real hardcore outing in the desert and broke LF outer joint. Had front and rear lockers activated in 4L and was slowly pulling out of really soft sand. Vehicle was clawing her way out and then the unmistakable sounds of a popped CV.
The drive shaft was supplied compete as a unit from Nisstec.
Before I throw a temper tantrum, has anyone had problems with the CV’s or did I just overload it to death?


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Ok folks, technical problem with CV joints. First real hardcore outing in the desert and broke LF outer joint. Had front and rear lockers activated in 4L and was slowly pulling out of really soft sand. Vehicle was clawing her way out and then the unmistakable sounds of a popped CV.
The drive shaft was supplied compete as a unit from Nisstec.
Before I throw a temper tantrum, has anyone had problems with the CV’s or did I just overload it to death?


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Where did it break? Was it inside the joint or was it a stub shaft? If memory serves me correctly, I think I've read about other Nisstec CVs coming apart in the joint.

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Where did it break? Was it inside the joint or was it a stub shaft? If memory serves me correctly, I think I've read about other Nisstec CVs coming apart in the joint.

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Yep, joint. Threw out the balls.


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Yep, joint. Threw out the balls.


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Search around a little, I'm pretty sure I've read about a couple of others. Possibly the snap rings coming loose?

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Yep, joint. Threw out the balls.


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@Kirzzy photo's?

When I swapped I used the Rugged Rocks axle shafts and stock CV's...seems pretty weird that the outer CV could throw out the balls unless the outer housing blew apart.
 

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Here are a few pics of the damage.
Cage shattered, balls out and inner piece broke at snap ring



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WOW! That is definitely surprising.

I do know where Nisstec has those CV axles made, and they are very reputable shop. (I actually ordered my boots from them when I rebuilt mine). I'm assuming you still have your stock CV's and can replace just that end? Is there any damage to the axle shaft itself?

Link: CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs
 

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Shaft has no damage at all. I’m now on the hunt for 940 CV’s. They tough as as you get.


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Shaft has no damage at all. I’m now on the hunt for 940 CV’s. They tough as as you get.


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New CV's tend to be a bit stiff so you should keep it light for a few miles and let it all settle. A buddy of mine replaced two on his 95' Pathfinder before wheeling and we immediately noticed they were a lot stiffer than OEM ones. One blew up and the other was ticking bad after the trip and he seems to think they were just too new or the grease they used was wrong. I also had a new one rip at the boot after one trip. Luckily his were lifetime warranty and mine was exchanged at Rockauto.
 

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New CV's tend to be a bit stiff so you should keep it light for a few miles and let it all settle. A buddy of mine replaced two on his 95' Pathfinder before wheeling and we immediately noticed they were a lot stiffer than OEM ones. One blew up and the other was ticking bad after the trip and he seems to think they were just too new or the grease they used was wrong. I also had a new one rip at the boot after one trip. Luckily his were lifetime warranty and mine was exchanged at Rockauto.


I put close to 1000km on the X before I did a heavy drive. The reason is the diffs and gearing. They need a run in period and oil change before they will perform properly.
Yes, CV’s need a bit of a run too.

I’m still in 2 minds whether it was poor quality or my over exerting it.
Luckily I have 2 sets available and will give them a shot.


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I put close to 1000km on the X before I did a heavy drive. The reason is the diffs and gearing. They need a run in period and oil change before they will perform properly.
Yes, CV’s need a bit of a run too.

I’m still in 2 minds whether it was poor quality or my over exerting it.
Luckily I have 2 sets available and will give them a shot.


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If you drove for 1000km before then yeah poor quality for sure...or bad luck....or you are a crazy person. You want the cv to fail before something else more expensive, but I think determining the cause of the failure is important. Any chance you could figure out what caused it to fail? Did you do higher speed stuff and come down hard on the suspension? A large bump at speed while turned?

Edit: Nvm I read the initial post about the incident.

Soft sand is a new one. Usually they pop when the wheel regains traction suddenly after free-spinning. That or the clips can’t handle the torque of the wheels bogging down in the sand. Time to go to an m205 and Titan shafts maybe?
 

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Edit: Nvm I read the initial post about the incident.

Soft sand is a new one. Usually they pop when the wheel regains traction suddenly after free-spinning. That or the clips can’t handle the torque of the wheels bogging down in the sand. Time to go to an m205 and Titan shafts maybe?

So I got a short video of how and you can see what we mean when we talk about soft sand.





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