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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've searched high and low and couldn't find anywhere where this question has been asked, sorry if I missed it. I have ordered the parts to do a Titan swap and they are starting to show up, now I have to start thinking about getting it all installed. I am leaning toward doing it myself but honestly the more I read (which is basically every T-swap thread on here) the less confidence I have. I don't have a ton of experience working on cars and this whole thing is starting to feel a bit over-ambitious. My '07 OR has close to 70k miles on it so I am guessing I am going to be dealing with a lot of tight bolts and I am really worried I am going to get this thing half taken apart but won't be able to complete the job. Are there any other rookie mechanics out there that did their own swap and want to share their experience? And in case I wuss out and hire someone to do it, is there a shop in Denver that anyone would recommend? I asked High Country Performance 4x4 what they would charge and they told me they have never done it and would charge $250/hr, more than I want to pay for someone to figure it out as they go. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, FWIW I plan on keeping the stock diff for now and just swap the axels. I have a good inventory of tools and purchased the larger sockets I will need. I do not have any air tools however. :crybaby:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am in downtown Denver, although I am thinking about doing the work in my in-laws' hanger which is out near Parker. If I decide to do it myself I will absolutely offer beer and pizza to anyone willing to help out. Good beer at that!
 

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You can do it, it's not as hard as you think. Grab a few cans of PB Blaster for any tight/seized bolts. Most of the stuff is bolt on. I did my swap myself with the help of a few members here, and since then I've taken my X apart and put it back together multiple times. It's all a learning curve. Don't psyche yourself out. There are a handful of Titan Swapped X's out there in CO, maybe familiarize yourself with them any they'd be willing to give a hand. What are the main reasons for you doing this?

It may also help if you share your planned setup.
 

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if you're not swapping the front diff out, it should be cake. all you're replacing are the same suspension components you would be doing as if you were doing a legit lift anyways, with the addition of the axles. ****, if you werent so far away I would come help.
 

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I don't have advice on how to do the swap, but did want to state that $250/hr is outrageous. I can't believe anyone would consider paying that for labor.:tard:
 

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Yea, you can do it. I'm a rookie mechanic too but have been part of 5 or 6 swaps .. Mine was first around these parts..

Hardest parts for a true rookie are the getting the stock upper control arms apart.. then comes bleeding the brakes after replacing the front brake lines. when replacing the Lower control arms add adjustable cam bolts, make the alignment a snap.. (or so the alignment guys tell me. though I've learned to mark them now when I have to disassemble for any reason. ) I've also learned to remove the brake caliper first and replace it last. be careful with the ABS lines but they are really just snap aparts so noo big.

Pulling your Xterra length 1/2 axles is no biggie.. just a slight finagle popping the new ones in. Although a big Pita will come if you have to put the CV on from your xterra 1/2 axle, greasy.. you might spill some gear oil through the process so have a little to refill.

In the rear, just make sure you do not have any pressure on the pumpkin or rear axle when you undo the ubolts.. C-clamp everything together and replace the leafs with the add-a-leaf provided..

There are loads of guys around the Denver area who can help with this but you might have to look around a little bit.
 

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I did mine and I'm a rookie too. It all bolt and 're-bolt.

But I'm confused as to how your just swapping axles and not the diff? The only way to accomplish that,as far as I know at least, is to have v8 pathfinder shafts. If your planning on putting titan shafts on an xterra diff, your gonna have issues.

Make sure you have all the right parts first.
 

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But I'm confused as to how your just swapping axles and not the diff? The only way to accomplish that,as far as I know at least, is to have v8 pathfinder shafts. If your planning on putting titan shafts on an xterra diff, your gonna have issues.

QUOTE]

PRG extended axles for the 180 front diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I did mine and I'm a rookie too. It all bolt and 're-bolt.

But I'm confused as to how your just swapping axles and not the diff? The only way to accomplish that,as far as I know at least, is to have v8 pathfinder shafts. If your planning on putting titan shafts on an xterra diff, your gonna have issues.

Make sure you have all the right parts first.
PRG sells extended axles to fit a T-swap on the stock diff. Part of what is freaking me out is that the axles are just two long shafts and I have no idea what is involved in attaching them to the joints. All I can find about the job is that it is "messy'.
 

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It's not so much that it's messy (putting CV joints on the extended axles), as it is that generally aftermarket (supposedly OEM equivalent) CV joints don't fit the extended center axles ... the reason for that, usually, is that the aftermarket joints often have a different spline count than the stock Nissan ones ... not an issue if you're just swapping stock half axles for OEM equivalent half axles. The OEM equivalent stub shafts (inboard of the inner CV and outboard of the outer CV) have to be able to fit the stock hubs and diff, so they do; but they come already attached to the replacement center axle (shipped as 'drop in' units) so there's not usually any swapping needed, unless you're going to the longer ones needed for running Titan suspension with the r180 stock front diff.

Also, if I recall correctly, there's a circlip that holds the CV to the center axle, inside the boot ... so you need to remove the boot, and be prepared with a new boot kit, to deal with the grease that's inside (both the old stuff, and filling the new boot). I don't recall, for sure, whether getting stock Nissan CV joints off of the stock center axles and onto the new extended ones, requires the use of a press or not ... but if it does (as in, it's not a slip fit), that's an additional complication.

I thought PRG would sell the extended axles with CVs attached ... is that not the case? I might seriously consider it, if so ... otherwise, that's the one thing I might consider having a shop do for me, if only to alleviate the hassle of trying to deal with it myself. The rest of it should be straight bolt in (control arms, shocks, leaf springs - there's an AAL 'how-to' here on the site, do the shackles at the same time - fairly straight forward ... same for the rear shocks, etc) ... like everyone else, I think you should be able to handle it okay - especially if you can recruit a few locals to come lend a hand. Put up a thread and set up a mod day ... I'm sure you can make it happen.

I'd offer to help, but I don't even have time for my own project chit, these days; if you set up a mod day, and the timing works out, I might be able to swing by for a couple of hours ... but I can't promise anything and if I'm being perfectly honest, I have to say that it's not too likely.

HCP4x4 is a good place, if you've got a Jeep or a Toyota, but I've never gotten a good vibe that they knew Nissan stuff ... I think that's why they gave you the $250/hr quote; "If you really want us to figure it out, we sure can, but you've gotta make it worth our while" ... but that's just my guess.
 

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Here you go for the CV joint replacement. Just did it this weekend on mine.
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57243
EDIT: SKIBUM is exactly right, you HAVE to use OEM half axles, Cardone and many of the other ones easily accessed from www.rockauto.com are not compatible....the spline count on the innner axles is incorrect.


Also, I don't know what stance you want but those shackles and AALs (even with the shackles on the top hole) are not as tall as the SAWs (even cranked all the way down) in the front. Trust me, I ran that for a few weeks in a pinch and had about an inch of negative rake. If you want the back higher than the front, you'll need better leaf packs.

Good luck with the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It's not so much that it's messy (putting CV joints on the extended axles), as it is that generally aftermarket (supposedly OEM equivalent) CV joints don't fit the extended center axles ... the reason for that, usually, is that the aftermarket joints often have a different spline count than the stock Nissan ones ... not an issue if you're just swapping stock half axles for OEM equivalent half axles. The OEM equivalent stub shafts (inboard of the inner CV and outboard of the outer CV) have to be able to fit the stock hubs and diff, so they do; but they come already attached to the replacement center axle (shipped as 'drop in' units) so there's not usually any swapping needed, unless you're going to the longer ones needed for running Titan suspension with the r180 stock front diff.

Also, if I recall correctly, there's a circlip that holds the CV to the center axle, inside the boot ... so you need to remove the boot, and be prepared with a new boot kit, to deal with the grease that's inside (both the old stuff, and filling the new boot). I don't recall, for sure, whether getting stock Nissan CV joints off of the stock center axles and onto the new extended ones, requires the use of a press or not ... but if it does (as in, it's not a slip fit), that's an additional complication.

I thought PRG would sell the extended axles with CVs attached ... is that not the case? I might seriously consider it, if so ... otherwise, that's the one thing I might consider having a shop do for me, if only to alleviate the hassle of trying to deal with it myself. The rest of it should be straight bolt in (control arms, shocks, leaf springs - there's an AAL 'how-to' here on the site, do the shackles at the same time - fairly straight forward ... same for the rear shocks, etc) ... like everyone else, I think you should be able to handle it okay - especially if you can recruit a few locals to come lend a hand. Put up a thread and set up a mod day ... I'm sure you can make it happen.

I'd offer to help, but I don't even have time for my own project chit, these days; if you set up a mod day, and the timing works out, I might be able to swing by for a couple of hours ... but I can't promise anything and if I'm being perfectly honest, I have to say that it's not too likely.

HCP4x4 is a good place, if you've got a Jeep or a Toyota, but I've never gotten a good vibe that they knew Nissan stuff ... I think that's why they gave you the $250/hr quote; "If you really want us to figure it out, we sure can, but you've gotta make it worth our while" ... but that's just my guess.
Thanks for the input - nice to see a fellow dirtdag on here. My climbing days are on hold given familial obligations but dreams of solid granite holds haunt me nightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Here you go for the CV joint replacement. Just did it this weekend on mine.
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57243
EDIT: SKIBUM is exactly right, you HAVE to use OEM half axles, Cardone and many of the other ones easily accessed from www.rockauto.com are not compatible....the spline count on the innner axles is incorrect.


Also, I don't know what stance you want but those shackles and AALs (even with the shackles on the top hole) are not as tall as the SAWs (even cranked all the way down) in the front. Trust me, I ran that for a few weeks in a pinch and had about an inch of negative rake. If you want the back higher than the front, you'll need better leaf packs.

Good luck with the swap.
Nice build thread, very helpful to help me know what I am getting into. Do you know if the PRG shafts will fit cleanly or not? I'd like to think that they have done their homework on this!
 
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