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I currently have the 110A alternator from stock. I'm currently on my THIRD Diehard Platinum AGM battery. They seem to last about a year and a half before they will no longer hold a charge. I understand the stock alternator will not fully charge the AGM and I have maintained this current battery with an AGM smart charger. Not cutting it now that temps are in the single digits unless I put it on charge every night. Frankly that gets old. I do draw a pretty significant load. I have a CarPC which to be honest I have no idea what kind of power draw it has. The power supply is 360w 12v. I also have a small digital 500w amp for one sub which I dont rattle my trunk with, as well as a 1000W for my speaker (mids/highs). Again I dont rattle the trunk, and infact the Amp for the speakers was necessary since It needs to be amplified from the CarPC soundcard. Either way it's clear I dont have a power plant capable of running my system. I am looking to upgrade. I've seen a post or two about the mean green 200Amp but nobody really has been able to show any data or report results. I've seen 280 amp alternators available.

Is there a max output I should be weary of? Has anyone put a 200 amp in and not looked back?
 

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I currently have the 110A alternator from stock. I'm currently on my THIRD Diehard Platinum AGM battery. They seem to last about a year and a half before they will no longer hold a charge. I understand the stock alternator will not fully charge the AGM and I have maintained this current battery with an AGM smart charger. Not cutting it now that temps are in the single digits unless I put it on charge every night. Frankly that gets old. I do draw a pretty significant load. I have a CarPC which to be honest I have no idea what kind of power draw it has. The power supply is 360w 12v. I also have a small digital 500w amp for one sub which I dont rattle my trunk with, as well as a 1000W for my speaker (mids/highs). Again I dont rattle the trunk, and infact the Amp for the speakers was necessary since It needs to be amplified from the CarPC soundcard. Either way it's clear I dont have a power plant capable of running my system. I am looking to upgrade. I've seen a post or two about the mean green 200Amp but nobody really has been able to show any data or report results. I've seen 280 amp alternators available.

Is there a max output I should be weary of? Has anyone put a 200 amp in and not looked back?
You can get a later year alternator which is 130amp. The mean green that outs out 200amos or whatever it is supposedly isn't bulletproof either. It's not sealed much more than the stock unit and the claims to its output, well their from mean green. So who knows if it's true. Don't know if that helps but at least you can upgrade to the 130 if you decide to stay stock.


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Discussion Starter #3
I see you can get the 130amp. Im wondering if thats even worth while for the 20 amp gain. I understand the mean green is sealed no better than the stock. However, I dont drown my X in mud so not a big issue for me.
 

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Other than the audio and PC, I have heated seats and will be doing the heated mirror mod tomorrow. Im juts trying to see if the 130 amp will sufice or if I should just spring for the 200amp
 

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why does your alternator not fully charge your agm battery?
Are you aksing the reason it doesn't, or if it doesn't.

Either way the stock Alternator especially the 110 is not capable of fully recharging an Odyssey or Diehard Platinum AGM battery. I don't know why, just what I have found in reading and been told. Most of what I read on the Platinum in general is that a lot of vehicle's are not capable of fully rechargin the battery and a common suggestion is a battery tender or high output alternator. If someone has any other insight it's welcome.
 

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im asking your reasoning behind why your alternator doesnt fully charge your agm battery because im not aware of any reason why this would be true. i would like to know where you read this from. the amp output of the alternator has no bearing on whether it can charge a battery, as long as your alternator is putting out 13.8-14.3 volts it should have no problem charging your battery to full no matter the size of the battery. larger batteries will just take a longer time to charge than smaller batteries if the output of the alternator is the same.
i know you said you have a 360w carpc, and also a 1500w stereo system, but what you have to understand is just because you have a 360w power supply in the pc,and 1500w in the stereo doesnt mean its drawing that all the time, i have a 900 watt power supply in my desktop that only draws 200w at idle, and 600w max load while playing games. the same is true with your stereo amps, the sub only draws a large amount of power when the bass hits, the rest of the time it is a very minimal draw.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
im asking your reasoning behind why your alternator doesnt fully charge your agm battery because im not aware of any reason why this would be true. i would like to know where you read this from. the amp output of the alternator has no bearing on whether it can charge a battery, as long as your alternator is putting out 13.8-14.3 volts it should have no problem charging your battery to full no matter the size of the battery. larger batteries will just take a longer time to charge than smaller batteries if the output of the alternator is the same.
i know you said you have a 360w carpc, and also a 1500w stereo system, but what you have to understand is just because you have a 360w power supply in the pc,and 1500w in the stereo doesnt mean its drawing that all the time, i have a 900 watt power supply in my desktop that only draws 200w at idle, and 600w max load while playing games. the same is true with your stereo amps, the sub only draws a large amount of power when the bass hits, the rest of the time it is a very minimal draw.
Hey I agree with you. I understand the amperage doesn't determine the charge. I also understand the load ratings and that is not the full time draw. I am willing to bet the PC however is drawing close to it's limit as it has HD radio, wifi, 2 sticks of 2gb ram, USB gps, usb OBDII as well as USB fusion brain for temps. With the vehicle running and my charger on I watch the percentage drop while the voltage is only between 12.8 and 13.5. I had the laternator tested 6 months ago apparently no issues. Ill have to check those numbers again.

I am reading an AGM needs 15V to properly recharge. However now that I get deeper into my "research" i find nothing but conflict in the reasoning on whether typical stock alternators will fully charge a Diehard Platinum. What does X stock Alt put out? It certainly isn't 15 on mine. It would seem given enough time the alternator could infact charge the battery properly. I drive back and fourth to work about 25 mins each way. I work 12 hour shifts and am off for periods of 3 to 4 days at times so Im not driving every single day. Other than that, this time of year I dont do much driving. The battery is bad. I know that much. Fully charged it, let it sit and overnight it dropped significantly without being attached to the vehicle. My issue is this is the third platinum. It's always been under warranty thankfully. Im just trying to avoid a fourth 5th 6th so on. Im thinking my issue is that overtime I am drawing more than the Alt is replenishing. It's not that it cannot charge it as i previously thought/read, it's that I would need to cruise for ahile with as little draw as possible.
 

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you still should have no problem charging your battery, 25 mins at driving rpm puts out plenty of juice to charge even if your cranking the stereo. the normal voltage output depends on the level of your battery, it will vary with load requirements and temperature. i dont have a fsm in front of me to give you the official answer but 13.8 is i think what my truck idles at with a charged battery, a charging battery will show higher voltages.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the input. Something has to be wrong or insufficient. Shouldnt have to throw a new battery in every year. Just turning my headlights on will drop the voltage and is neough to bog the engine down at idle for a split second.
 

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Do you have your accessories grounded back to the battery, or to the frame (or some other place that's not the battery)? The vehicle determines what charge to put out of the alternator, by sensing the load going back into the battery ... there's an inductive amp meter on the negative battery cable. If you ground aftermarket accessories all the way back to the battery, their load will bypass that sensor and the vehicle has no way of knowing it was pulled out of the battery ... as a result it can't recharge the battery fully.

The other consideration, is that with ad-ons, you need to be mindful of depth of discharge on AGMs ... the only AGM batteries that can sustain repeated deep discharges (50% or more) are true deep-cycle batteries. Really, any type of battery that's not designed to be a deep-cycle will struggle with that kind of use, but especially AGM starting batteries will not last long being discharged to that level.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you have your accessories grounded back to the battery, or to the frame (or some other place that's not the battery)? The vehicle determines what charge to put out of the alternator, by sensing the load going back into the battery ... there's an inductive amp meter on the negative battery cable. If you ground aftermarket accessories all the way back to the battery, their load will bypass that sensor and the vehicle has no way of knowing it was pulled out of the battery ... as a result it can't recharge the battery fully.

The other consideration, is that with ad-ons, you need to be mindful of depth of discharge on AGMs ... the only AGM batteries that can sustain repeated deep discharges (50% or more) are true deep-cycle batteries. Really, any type of battery that's not designed to be a deep-cycle will struggle with that kind of use, but especially AGM starting batteries will not last long being discharged to that level.
Nothing is grounded to the battery itself. One Amp grounded to the seat bolt/floor and another to the rear seat bolt. Grounds are with 4 gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
sounds like you have a bad alternator, which is killing your battery. what voltage do you see at idle? 2000 rpm? i dont think i would throw down the money on a mean green, but i would probably look at getting a reman alternator.
Ill look into and see what my voltages are idle and 200rpm, report back. My "Smart Charger" has an alternator test mode I havent fiddled with yet because Im not sure how reliabel it is.
 

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Not sure if anyone still interested, but figured I would chime in since I have been digging into alternators for completely different reasons.

First, a higher output alternator will not output any more voltage. Not sure where you heard you needed 15V to charge your battery, however both the Hitachi 110A and 130A alternators that come stock on these run at Regulated output voltage: 14.1 - 14.7V @ 20C. I would hazard a guess the only way to get 14.7V is to run at about 5000RPM. I was always taught that right around 14V is good to go for 12V systems?

Also, I believe your 2008 would have the 130A alternator (were stock on 2006 model year and up).

For what its worth, my original stock battery lasted about 2 years. The next one (new replacement from NIssan) lasted less than a year. The third is about 2 years now. If your battery starts the car no problem every time, then its getting charged. It sounds like your shorting the battery out internally. I think the batteries aren't built like they used to be, but vibration and shock can speed the process.

Kodiak makes a dual battery kit. It isolates the second battery for your accessories. That might be your ticket?
 

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Not sure if anyone still interested, but figured I would chime in since I have been digging into alternators for completely different reasons.

First, a higher output alternator will not output any more voltage. Not sure where you heard you needed 15V to charge your battery, however both the Hitachi 110A and 130A alternators that come stock on these run at Regulated output voltage: 14.1 - 14.7V @ 20C. I would hazard a guess the only way to get 14.7V is to run at about 5000RPM. I was always taught that right around 14V is good to go for 12V systems?

Also, I believe your 2008 would have the 130A alternator (were stock on 2006 model year and up).

For what its worth, my original stock battery lasted about 2 years. The next one (new replacement from NIssan) lasted less than a year. The third is about 2 years now. If your battery starts the car no problem every time, then its getting charged. It sounds like your shorting the battery out internally. I think the batteries aren't built like they used to be, but vibration and shock can speed the process.

Kodiak makes a dual battery kit. It isolates the second battery for your accessories. That might be your ticket?
Yeah, I've been following up quite a bit. Too much conflicting but the most logical is what you and others have stated. As soon as I installed my electronics the Nissan Battery would not longer start my vehicle, however I put it into my wifes Tacoma and its lasted ever since, so it is 5 years old. Recently with giving it a good 12 hour charge with an AGM charge mode once a week I haven't had any issues. Its also warmed a slight bit around freezing so it behaves better. I have looked at the kodiak kit and that is probably my best option however VERY expensive. However, I am going to try to save up for it. If I could keep one battery for the sole purpose of starting the vehicle and the other for the rest of my BS then that would be great.

Thanks for the insight I appreciate it.
 

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For my benefit how much is the Kodiak Kit - ball park. Looked at them but never priced them.

A second battery kit wouldn't be that hard to do yourself - everything in the kodiak is available readily elsewhere with all the solar power / dual battery stuff for RV's.
 

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I've seen around 800. I agree could be done much cheaper assembling a kit by yourself. Even using the same pc1200 batteries.
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Ever consider throwing in a capacitor?? That might help reduce the amount of draw directly from the battery. Granted you are "Bumping" your system but the draw is still there.

ChrisHaynesUSA had/has a mean green that he threw in but I think he had an issue on his way to Moab or somewhere like that where he was getting SES lights for an overcharging issue.

Ive had my 130amp and spare 130 amp rebuilt a whole bunch of times but im an a-hole and play in the mud or drive stupid deep in Lake Michigan. When you want to replace that alternator feel free to give me a call or shoot me a pm. Ive replaced it now 7 times. kinda got it down to an art. Although it still sucks everytime.
 
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