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Feeling dumb here... figured this is the place to ask.
So I bedlined my front bumper with duplicolor truck bed coating and it didn't turn out like I wanted.
I've spraypainted a lot, but first time with bedliner.
Heated the cans in a bucket of hot water, and went about painting. Kept the can moving, The finish was turning out too blotchy for the first few coats at what I consider a normal distance, so I held the can back some more and it turned out much more uniform but too powdery. I get black powder when I rub it with my hand and it feels like rigid foam insulation, and shows every dusty hand print. So I guess that was TOO far away.
So what's the ideal distance? Maybe I just needed more coats at my original distance and let it dry more? Gah.. not looking forward to sanding this off....
 

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Is there a howto for adding trailer harness/trailer plug? I swear I thought it was plug and play but can't find it now with this new interface. Any tips? @Longboardr I know you tow

I'm going to be towing a super light trailer, with no brakes so don't need a controller or anything fancy.
 

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Is there a howto for adding trailer harness/trailer plug? I swear I thought it was plug and play but can't find it now with this new interface. Any tips? @Longboardr I know you tow

I'm going to be towing a super light trailer, with no brakes so don't need a controller or anything fancy.

I can't navigate around on this format either. To search Google will still work, put something like this into the search

trailer harness install site:thenewx.org

It's pretty straight forward. Three relays go behind the passanger kick panel and the 4 prong pigtail harness will plug in around the rear axle on the driver's side.
 

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I can't navigate around on this format either. To search Google will still work, put something like this into the search

trailer harness install site:thenewx.org

It's pretty straight forward. Three relays go behind the passanger kick panel and the 4 prong pigtail harness will plug in around the rear axle on the driver's side.
Thanks I'll check it out. It's somewhat more difficult than I thought. I was under the impression that I just need a harness and that's it. gonna do some more googling but the pickup is on tuesday, don't think i can get relays and so forth in on time.
 

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So I swapped the wheels from my Fronty on to the X. My fronty TPMS sensors worked on the Fronty. The X hasn't had working TPMS sensors for year. Anyway - I decided to try to reset them so I used the paperclip learn mode and a generic TPMS learn tool Orange Electronic OEC-T5 - like I found on a Youtube video. I know I could set the tire pressures and do the learn that way - but this seemed like it was worth it to not have to drive around, etc.

Anyway, when I turn the key the TPMS light no longer flashes - but goes on and stays on right away. But it won't go out. I have aired up the tires all the way to 37PSI, and driven quite a bit.

So my question - if the TPMS light does not flash at all when you start - they must have been learned correctly - and I have a different problem - correct?

Or is it possible it didn't learn correctly at all?
 

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man idk, that Darn TPMS light is the ONLY one i just ignore, mine flashes for a minute on start up then goes soild and stays that way. tire shops seem to be able to get them to work for like 5 minutes, at 40+ psi...

but it never lasts and I hate the tires inflated that much.

Someone else on this site did what I consider to be the "best" solution, they basically made a small pressure chamber out of pvs and threw all 4 or 5 sensors in there, pressurized it up and voila.. problem solved even if you air down/ up.
 

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I ignore that one too, it really only comes on if I've been booting up and down the highway from Boston to the Cape of up to NH, it's really the only time I see it on
 

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Time to revive the old thread!

My white xterra is peeling pretty bad in the rain channels on the roof and its time to do something about it. I know there area a number of threads already but it seems the only suggestion is to complain about it or several have sprayed them with bedliner. I wish to keep it white, so I think I am either going to brush or spray something like white rustoleum in there. Not all that worried about appearance, just want it protected mostly.

Anyone have a better suggestion. Its well beyond the touch up pen. In fact I think once I take a wire brush to it there will be no paint left in there.
 

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I wish to keep it white, so I think I am either going to brush or spray something like white rustoleum in there. Not all that worried about appearance, just want it protected mostly.

Anyone have a better suggestion. Its well beyond the touch up pen. In fact I think once I take a wire brush to it there will be no paint left in there.
I've done some rough paint repair (sand to bare metal, tape off, spray primer, spray color-matched paint), but you can see the tape lines afterward. I like the method this guy uses (scroll way down the page to the "Exterior" section):

https://jalopnik.com/heres-exactly-what-it-cost-me-to-buy-and-rebuild-a-bmw-1834776367

I found the paint supplier to body shops in my area that also sells retail and can mix a spray can of color-matched paint. You might look for a similar shop in your area for the top coat.
 

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Time to revive the old thread!

My white xterra is peeling pretty bad in the rain channels on the roof and its time to do something about it. I know there area a number of threads already but it seems the only suggestion is to complain about it or several have sprayed them with bedliner. I wish to keep it white, so I think I am either going to brush or spray something like white rustoleum in there. Not all that worried about appearance, just want it protected mostly.

Anyone have a better suggestion. Its well beyond the touch up pen. In fact I think once I take a wire brush to it there will be no paint left in there.
Can't you just buy some colored (or not colored in your case...) bedliner? Would probably give you more protection in the future than Rustoleum. Depending on how much work you want to put into it, it might be worth it to just yank the roof rack off (yay for spinny rivnuts) and do the entire roof, which would help avoid paint lines and give it more longevity.
 

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@idn88 I taped off the channels. sanded a bit, and then applied some "silver bullet rust inhibitor paint" i just brushed it on, a small can was plenty. has been good ever since.

i got the paint from amazon for like $10.

Edit: its $13


furthermore, I am now having issues with the paint peeling( avalanche white) in other spots( channels are fine), mainly around the windows and windshield.. someone before me put some sort of automotive tape in some areas where the piant was peeling and now that tape is reachig the end of its life( tbh is was probably a good temporary fix for the paint issues, i could harly tell it was there unless really close). so i cant spend $1500-3k for a new paint job, so im considering getting some white bed liner product and applying myself.
 

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Ive been looking atound at the spray on stuff for my kids car. (First year driver and and a 20yr old Honda CrV.) The Raptor liner is affordable (about $300 for the entire vehicle) and tintable to whatever color you desire.
 

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Does anyone have the stock suspensions height table? I know it's around but can't find it. Just installed OME 1.5" all around, want to see what height the truck's at.
 

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This is probably all you'll need even though you didn't say what year/badge you have
 

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This is probably all you'll need even though you didn't say what year/badge you have
Thank you kindly!

I'm right around 36" front and 37" rear with slightly larger tires. Not exactly 1.5" that OME promised but the ride is significantly better.
 

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I’m guessing SLT is not St Louis and since I don’t know what it does stand for, the most correct answer is probably no.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's the file format for 3D printing software. Before you can print something you gotta design it.. do you have a design for the flares in other words?
 
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