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Anyone ever had a lower control arm move around at the frame mounts but not because of loose camber bolts? I'm trying to track down why my truck alignment seems to change day to day, sometimes it's perfect and the next day it can be all over the place...something is loose and it's not the camber bolts. The fact it can be fine for a day makes me want to rule out tie rods and bearings because those are usually either bad or good. Everything up front suspensionwise is under a year old.
Yea, your bushings are probably shot. Mine are bad for a 2nd time right now. Debating whether to bite the bullet and put delrin bushings in or just replace the entire uca. Probably should go with the delrin bushings or I'll be in the same place again in 15k miles.

Flexing out is really hard on the stock style LCA bushings.

From the first time they wore out:

Found this again when I did a brake job a few weekends ago. No wonder why I couldn't keep it aligned.
 

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Ah that's probably it then. That video is pretty much what I think is happening, the 4 inch lift probably isn't helping very much with longevity of the bushings very much and it's been something that has slowly become worse over time. I wonder if I should press out the bushings and find a better quality to put in + those delrins to help them last longer.
 

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Ah that's probably it then. That video is pretty much what I think is happening, the 4 inch lift probably isn't helping very much with longevity of the bushings very much and it's been something that has slowly become worse over time. I wonder if I should press out the bushings and find a better quality to put in + those delrins to help them last longer.


I have SPC UCA’s and my steering gets intermittently hard. Seems that when I wheel hard in the dunes, everything moves. When I put it on a lift, they line up again(everything moves).
Seriously considering dropping in custom poly bushes to stop the madness. Got around 20000 km on the Titan swap and have identified a few problems. Also replacing inner and outer steering with heim joints cause after 2 sets from Moog I’m done with those ball joints. Gonna suck it up and go for the dirt king stuff next round of mods....


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I have SPC UCA’s and my steering gets intermittently hard. Seems that when I wheel hard in the dunes, everything moves. When I put it on a lift, they line up again(everything moves).
Seriously considering dropping in custom poly bushes to stop the madness. Got around 20000 km on the Titan swap and have identified a few problems. Also replacing inner and outer steering with heim joints cause after 2 sets from Moog I’m done with those ball joints. Gonna suck it up and go for the dirt king stuff next round of mods....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That seems to be similar to what I'm having happen, even rough roads and potholes seem to let things move around. This morning it was driving great but I know that will only last a day or two max. Not a bad idea with poly lca bushings, are there any good brands out there that make a set for ours?
 

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That seems to be similar to what I'm having happen, even rough roads and potholes seem to let things move around. This morning it was driving great but I know that will only last a day or two max. Not a bad idea with poly lca bushings, are there any good brands out there that make a set for ours?
I believe Nisstec, PRG, and CJD Racing all make LCA bushing replacements. 4x4 parts might also make them, but I haven't looked.
 

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are there any good brands out there that make a set for ours?

Delrin is the brand. Can be gotten through the vendors Rik mentioned above.

Note: I'm fairly confident Delrin is what comes on the SPC UCA's.

Edit: Delrin is a material not a brand. See IM1RU's post 5 places down.
 

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We have poly rods at the shop so I’ll get the machinist to make me a set with the metal inserts. No paying to ship to Qatar. It’s costs more to ship than they cost.


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Do you know a lot about what kind of poly it is? I cheaped out on some ebay steering rack poly bushings a couple years ago that I just had to remove because they turned into a cottage cheese like mess and basically fell apart so that's what I'm trying to avoid on these.
 

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Do you know a lot about what kind of poly it is? I cheaped out on some ebay steering rack poly bushings a couple years ago that I just had to remove because they turned into a cottage cheese like mess and basically fell apart so that's what I'm trying to avoid on these.
We have polyurethane in large rods that we can machine to size. I use high grade steel inserts to prevent crushing them too. I'm not mad about the look of those offset bushes. Too many parts involved that could turn or if not correctly fitted, cause more headaches.
 

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Delrin is the brand.
Negative, Delrin is the common name given by Dupont to the plastic polymer Polyoxymethylene, also known as acetal, polyacetal, and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction, and excellent dimensional stability.

Not unlike pharma companies do.
 

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Negative, Delrin is the common name given by Dupont to the plastic polymer Polyoxymethylene, also known as acetal, polyacetal, and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction, and excellent dimensional stability.

Not unlike pharma companies do.
Haha I can see why, Polyoxymethylene sounds like something sold in little baggies in dark alleys.
 

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Negative, Delrin is the common name given by Dupont to the plastic polymer Polyoxymethylene, also known as acetal, polyacetal, and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction, and excellent dimensional stability.

Not unlike pharma companies do.
I stand corrected. Thank you for clarifying. Edited original response for future ref.
 

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Negative, Delrin is the common name given by Dupont to the plastic polymer Polyoxymethylene, also known as acetal, polyacetal, and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction, and excellent dimensional stability...

and they make excellent guitar picks!!
 

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Had a chance to look at it more today, the pass side sway bar link (mevotech) doesn't rotate so I removed the nut and put some brake grease behind the nut and torqued it a bit less than last time. Also the front pass camber bolt washer looks like it might be moving up/down some. There appears to be a slide mark or something right below the washer, the torque is ok on the nut but there's definitely some grease behind that washer. Probably from when I greased the lca bolts so they wouldn't sieze on me.
 

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Dumb question... I am trying to replace all 4 pads/rotors.

On RockAuto, do I need to order quantity 2 of brake pads for front & rear (4 total) or does quantity 1 include 2 sets of pads?
 

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What are the downsides of too much caster?

I'm pretty sure that I do at the moment but before lowering the angle I wanted to see what our group of Xterra scholars thought on the subject. When I setup my SPC's last year I set the caster adjuster to slot B or +2.75 degrees of caster. They note in the install sheet that slot D or +1 degrees of caster will return most truck to stock.

My main complaints are:

1. Overly strong pull to center. At 70+ mph on long sweeping freeway turns the truck doesn't want to turn, it's a fight to keep the truck in lane while also completing the turn. If you let go of the wheel it sharply snaps back to center immediately, the truck will actually sway back and forth a few times from the force.

2. At slow speed if I make a turn, for example a left turn at 10 mph and hit the gas I can feel at least one of the front tires seem to lock/lose grip and the truck wants to drive straight and just drag the front tires without much turning happening. Basically really bad understeer.

3. High speed front end pulsing, seems like an alignment problem vs rotors but I'm wondering if it's mainly caster again, both wheels fighting to pull the truck depending on which way the road is leaning.

What do you guys think?
 

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Thoughts on running a RTT with the Dep Hep Drop-in Rack? Anyone think it may be better long term to save up for a gobi rack? Curious to hear anyone's experiences.
 

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Thoughts on running a RTT with the Dep Hep Drop-in Rack? Anyone think it may be better long term to save up for a gobi rack? Curious to hear anyone's experiences.
Basically an unnecessary use of the DH rack because it's just added weight underneath the tent that you can't use anymore. That being said, I will likely do the same thing until I get a front runner rack or I can convince Rocky Mtn Racks to use me as a guinea pig for their racks.
 
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