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2011 Pro-4X AT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I've been thinking about upgrading my 285/75R16 KO2 tires on my 2" to 3" suspension lift to 35" to gain even more ground clearance from the rocks.

From all the threads that I've read, I see a very common size is the 35" height x 12.5" wide, aka: 315/75R16.

The stock tires on a recent Pro-4X is: 265/75R16, aka: 31.6" height x 10.4" width, with a stock wheel of 16" x 7".

So, the usual 35" is not only taller, but also 2.5" wider. That width increase is hurting your turning radius as now the tire rubs on the frame when turning since it's way wider. That's why most of the people running 35s went with a Titan Swap (TS) which increases the track width and move the tire articulation point away from the frame. Or you have to use spacers to push your wheels out (but spacers are bad for the axle).
There is also the issue that being 12.5" wide, those tires require a wheel that is 8" wide as a minimum (stock is 7").

So if you want to avoid those problems and just have to deal with the front fender trimming for the height change,
you need a tall & narrow tire.

I've found only two, both from Interco:

With those tires, I save as:
1) don't have to do the Titan Swap, or deal with any offset or spacers considerations.
2) don't have to buy new wheels.
3) don't have to buy new tire pressure sensors (TPMS).

The cons are:
  • noisy on the highway
  • low mileage life: read like I should expect 15K to 20K miles out of a set.
  • performance hit due to the 33" to 35" ratio increase

Does anybody know any other tall & narrow tire to consider?

Has anybody personally tried those tires on his/her Xterra?

Anybody knows why there is a $60/tire difference?
5 (need a same size spare) TSL/SXII = $1,380
5 (need a same size spare) SSR = $1,680 (+$300)

Any other feedback?
 

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You might find this helpful.
 

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2011 Pro-4X AT
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
You might find this - lowlift on 35s - helpful.
Thanks, all pages were an interesting read. The Dick Cepek tire he used is a wide 12.4" tire though.

I learned about the Kenda Klever 35x10.50R17 tall & narrow tire. Unfortunately it requires a 17" diameter rim, and my stock ones are 16" :(.

I'm better understanding the differences between the two Interco Tires now:

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The SSR is a radial tire while the SX2 is a Bias Ply tire.
They have similar weight and load ranges.
By looking at the images, one can see that the lugs are closer on the SSR, and that the SSR has more rubber in contact with the ground.
The SX2 is more resistant to punctures (specially on side wall) with 10 ply tread & 4 ply sidewall
while the SSR has only 8 ply tread and 2 ply sidewall.

All information points out to the radial being the way better on-road tire, and I plan to run this as a single set for highway & trail driving.

The last nail in the coffin is the min & max rim width. Interco recommends the SX2 only for 8" rims, while the SSR can go from 7" to 9" rims. (probably due to the more flexible sidewall in a radial).
 

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I'm on my second set of SSR38- 33.9" new. Very loud and don't track well on hard top but are worth it when the going gets tough. My first set knocked out 25K miles and not yet to the wear bars, 1/3 of those miles were at 18psi off road till one wouldn't hold air due to a lightning strike. A few pics of where they rub on a Dakar OME 2" HD lift, no sway bars Shrock armor, front to rear.
Auto part Bumper Automotive tire Automotive exterior
front at full lock Tire Automotive tire Bumper Automotive wheel system Auto part
front full stuff Tire Automotive tire Auto part Automotive wheel system Tread
rear full articulation
Tire Automotive tire Mode of transport Wheel Bumper
 

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2011 Pro-4X AT
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm on my second set of SSR38- 33.9" new. Very loud and don't track well on hard top [...]
Thank you very much for that "don't track well on hard top" feedback. I've also read other places that the on-road was not good without further description of the problems.

I do do several hours of highway and high-speed curves to reach the trails, so the on-road is a must. Looks like I should give up on the 35x10.50R16 Super Swamper Radial SSR.

I found another size which is tall & narrow: the 285/75R18 which has quite a few different choices availabe like Cooper Discoverer AT3, or... That size is a 34.8x11.2R18.
Compared to the small stock OEM tire, we're talking of:
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I tried to convert the typical 35x12.5R18 in metric and landed on a metric equivalent of 315/70R18:
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The number that I pay attention to is the: "inner sidewall to frame" as it governs the tire rubbing on frame when turning lock to lock.
As you can see, with a narrow tire, the difference is almost non-existent, while with the more standard tire size, the tire comes 0.53" closer to the frame (when straight). No wonder that a Titan Swap which brings the tire more outward is used by most folks who run 35"s.

Looking at @DiscountTire website for my local store - 536 E Brokaw Rd - San Jose, CA 95127 -, I see a few tires of interest to me:

The Toyo is a bit under the other two due to its P speed rating (only 94MPH) while the other two have a Q rating (up to 100MPH).
The Goodyear is only an All-Terrain, but it's the only tire in this size rated "Best" by their Treadwell rating service.

With those 18" tires, I also would need some 18" wheels with a 6-114.3 mm/6-4.5" bolt pattern for the Xterra:

For 5 (need a spare) wheels & tires, that's already $3100+ not counting the new TPMS...
 

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I looked at this for a long time. I mean a LOOOONG time. I was monitoring tire sizes like a hawk for nearly 2 years. I did TONS of research - even into unknown foreign-brand tires.

Basically have 1 realistic option: Kenda Klever RT:
https://www.amazon.com/-/es/35x10-50R17-Kenda-Klever-KR601-Neumático/dp/B07RRSBX2K
These are 35x10.5xR17 - so the same width as most 285mm-width 33's. All reviews I read were that people loved them and they were hoping they would pioneer some more options for tires in this tall & skinny size. My reason for wanting it was better MPG and look. Ultimately, I was concerned that they would be too narrow and look "weenie" (lol) so I ended up going with classic 315mm width 35's.

Definitely DO NOT get the super swampers. They are not a good fit for this truck. That's not really the type of wheeling this truck was built for... and those tires should really never be on pavement in any real capacity. If you do any kind of off-pavement driving for more than a few miles I think you will regret it.
 

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Just noticed that you had already found the Kenda Klevers. Yeah, unfortunately that really is the only option for a 16" or 17" wheel if you exclude the swampers - youl'l have to trust me on this. I'm not exaggerating when I say I probably dumped close to 25h of research in this and advantages/disadvantages of skinnies. You could go to 18's but generally the bigger the wheel, the more expensive the tire, so I would go with 17" Klevers and call it good. And post pics so you can make me regret not getting the skinnies!
 

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If youre looking at getting new rims anyway, if you think these 17" kendas are your only option... a dude I follow on IG has ION 179 16" rims with 315/75/16 Geolandar G003.
They have a +10 offset. They don't rub with his OME lift. He's trimmed just the bottom part of the fender well.
They're of course a 12.5" tire, but he's managed to avoid the issues you are trying to avoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
You could go to 18's but generally the bigger the wheel, the more expensive the tire, so I would go with 17" Klevers and call it good. And post pics so you can make me regret not getting the skinnies!
Yeah, that's kind of what my thinking has matured into currently: 17" Kenda Klever RT. Unfortunately, they require a new wheel too (considering the DX4 recon 17"x 8.5" 6x114.3 +0 offset in bronze), and thus new TPMS. The Kenda Klever RT can be had as low as $186 on eBay, so compared to an 18" tire at $330, that kind of covers the price of the wheel too.
I know and trust the Kenda brand from my bicycle and my motorcycles.

Still not ready to pull the trigger, since I have a only a 2" or 3" unknown suspension lift, I am exploring 1) fiberglass fenders (nah, not bolt-on, needs a body shop to drill adjust paint install), 2) chopping myself the fenders (and using plastic angles to reattach the liners), 3) installing myself a 2" body lift in addition to the existing suspension lift.

I will definitively post pictures if/when I get them ! :D

Here are some nice pictures of the Kenda Klever R/T (rough terrain = between all-terrain & mud) from eBay for salivating...
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Just noticed that you had already found the Kenda Klevers. Yeah, unfortunately that really is the only option for a 16" or 17" wheel if you exclude the swampers - youl'l have to trust me on this. I'm not exaggerating when I say I probably dumped close to 25h of research in this and advantages/disadvantages of skinnies. You could go to 18's but generally the bigger the wheel, the more expensive the tire, so I would go with 17" Klevers and call it good. And post pics so you can make me regret not getting the skinnies!
So has anyone actually used the Klevers? Need feedback (clearance on turning, full flex, any fender mods, longevity, etc?) as I'm going this route, not hassling with a TS for now.
 

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So has anyone actually used the Klevers? Need feedback (clearance on turning, full flex, any fender mods, longevity, etc?) as I'm going this route, not hassling with a TS for now.
No one as far as I have extensively researched has done Klevers on the Xterra in this skinny 35" size. I'm guessing you'll need wheels with a little less offset or wheel spacers like you do with 285/75/R16 (33's) to help prevent them from rubbing the fender at full lock. From some other forums I read about it, they were happy with how generally not as much trimming was needed. e.g. on a 3rd-gen Tacoma. I'm guessing if you don't TS you won't have to trim as much as the outer fender since you aren't pushing the tires out so far.

As far as reviews for the tread pattern, I remember hoping that they were gonna be a solid, quieter hybrid AT/MT terrain but the generally consensus was that they were a bit louder than people were expecting.
 

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No one as far as I have extensively researched has done Klevers on the Xterra in this skinny 35" size. I'm guessing you'll need wheels with a little less offset or wheel spacers like you do with 285/75/R16 (33's) to help prevent them from rubbing the fender at full lock. From some other forums I read about it, they were happy with how generally not as much trimming was needed. e.g. on a 3rd-gen Tacoma. I'm guessing if you don't TS you won't have to trim as much as the outer fender since you aren't pushing the tires out so far.

As far as reviews for the tread pattern, I remember hoping that they were gonna be a solid, quieter hybrid AT/MT terrain but the generally consensus was that they were a bit louder than people were expecting.
Thanks, I'm on KO2 33s now with SpiderTrax 1.5" spaces, no issues at all on driveline, on and off-road. I like the setup as just adds a bit more track width. So far had to trim the lowest front fender rear corner (fold over), that's it. Hoping these Klevers will only need a little more massaging to fit, or none at all. I'll check out 17" wheel options and offsets soon.
 

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I no longer have the xterra but am running the kendas in 35x10.50 on my Sierra and am really happy with them so far , smooth at 80 , good in snow so far only downside is they are heavy ish at 68lbs
 

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2011 Pro-4X AT
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've just received my first Kenda Klever R/T 35 x 10.50 R 17 tire.
( I ordered just one to do some test fits at home and to trim the fenders
before ordering the four others ).
I had it mounted on a DX4 recon wheel at my local America's Tire thanks to the help of @Discount Tire .

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Here is how I expected it to fit compared to my current 33s BFG AT KO2, since the wheel offset is different, but the tire is almost the same exact width. (NOT going to a 35x12.50).
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Here's the tire mounted on its wheel:
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They seem to have needed a lot of weight to get it balanced.
I don't care too much, I plan on a different method to get it balanced.
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I really like:
1) the tire has a built-in ledge to protect the rim:
2) the valve stem seems nicely tucked in (concerned about getting it ripped against a rock):
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And here it is compared to my used 33s:
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Unloaded/unmounted, its real-world diameter as just mounted on the wheel is at: 34.5"
While my used BFG KO2 weighted down by the car are a smidge under 32".
 

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I was looking at the skinny Kenda's when I had an itch to buy the new Nismo wheels but that has since passed. I did find this guy on youtube that was running them on his Taco.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The top of the untrimmed front fenders sits at 37" (stock is ?), while the rears are at 38" (stock is 36").
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Here are my initial measurements (I need 1.25" in each directions):

Passenger Rear:
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Driver Rear:
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In conclusion to those existing rear tire pictures, I would say that the rear is fine and that I don't need to trim anything.

Let's look at the front...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How much and where should I cut?

@AlbatrossCafe I'd appreciate your inputs here...

I think I have a little bit of room left (1/2" ?) to crank up the the front Radflos using a shock wrench.

Driver Front:
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ARB front bumper gives plenty of clearance.
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Should I cut the top of the fender about 1" ?
I do find myself in situations with a diagonal rut/ditch when I have opposite wheels (Passenger front & Driver rear) in the air fully extended.

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Rear of the driver front fender: some trimming will definitively have to happen here. Planning on maybe 2" and hammering flat the pinch weld, and trimming the fender liner.


Passenger Front:
Interestingly, there seems to be even less room available on the passenger side. I wonder why?
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Top of the front passenger fender.

No need to publish the front clearance thanks to the ARB front bumper which gives at least 6".

So, @AlbatrossCafe what do you recommend?
 

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@GED caster in your alignment plays a big part in clearance. That probably explains why your driver/passenger side are different. I like how my X drives with a high caster (4-5, recommended is like 2.2) and a higher caster pushes the wheels farther forward, so it is a win-win for drive-ability and clearance for me. I recommend reading about the "Brutal Alignment" on this and the Frontier forum:


Trimming depends on a lot of things. First, and most importantly - BODY LIFT. Do you have any body lift? I have 1" - a lot of people run 2" for 35s. If you have 2" you definitely don't need to trim the top of the fender. If you have 1" like me, I also think you can get away without trimming the top of the fender. I trimmed mine, but I don't think it was necessary. Also, with 1" or more body lift, you won't have to trim the rear of the X at all. I think with no body lift, you may have rubbing but probably don't need to take any action.

Second, you have to start with the alignment (like I mentioned above) that you want/expect and then go from there. You will definitely have to trim at the rear of the front fenders (even with a 2" BL), but by how much I can't say. It will probably be a slow process of putting on the tires, testing, cutting, and repeat.

I posted pics of my trim below - honestly I over-trimmed, but I don't mind it. I didn't need to trim the top and prob could have saved half an inch or so at the bottom of my fender. However, I think it looks good and I will never have to worry about anything ever rubbing so I'm happy. I believe 1" BL is the sweet spot of not having too much frame gap but clearing tires. I would not run 35s without any BL personally. I'm excited to see how yours turns out with those! Hurry up already!

Pics from here: AlbatrossCafe's FleXterra ~ T-Swap, 35s, 4.10s...

 
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